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-   -   Alternator Bracket for Generator Housing oil Leak- UPDATE & OBSERVATION (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=597904)

pkathee 01-31-2012 06:17 PM

Alternator Bracket for Generator Housing oil Leak- PROBLEM SOLVED
 
After doing research on here I think I am having a leak on the so called Alternator bracket gasket. See color picture below. The other schematic (black and white) shows the most likely culprit for the origination of the oil leak. Item #2- rubber gasket. The good thing is that it is a $3 part but I heard that it is a 7-8 hour job to get to it. Could someone please confirm with my picture it is indeed the alternator gasket. Also, I was unable to get a DIY write up on how to approach this task. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...h_DSCN3536.jpg
http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/...torHousing.png

HerbP 01-31-2012 06:42 PM

Based on my experience, That looks like the alternator gasket. If you look up into the engine from the bottom with a good light, you can watch it leak. That looks like used motor oil, right where mine was leaking. It's between an 8 to 10 hour job, & a PITA to do. A 760 would probably be longer. Use some silicone around the o-ring, just to make sure it seals! Ask me how I know! :mad::mad::mad::mad:


Good Luck!

Bendare2 01-31-2012 06:54 PM

There is a DIY. I had to have mine replaced and it's amazing how much work is required to get to that stupid gasket! I'll look for it...

EDIT: Here's what I remember: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=583242

CLOWNIN745LI 01-31-2012 09:53 PM

going to take a whole weekend lol =)

Expo BMW 01-31-2012 10:03 PM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AdQUr34voGk

Keif 01-31-2012 10:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CLOWNIN745LI (Post 6601330)
going to take a whole weekend lol =)

+1...majority of weekend if water-cooled or doing it for the first time. If you have any lingering questions about the steps required or anything else, ask away. For reference, I've replaced this gasket on both the water-cooled and air-cooled setups. If you dig through my weep hole / crossover pipe pictures / DIY (still disorganized currently), you can see some of the parts you may have questions about.

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Bimmer App

Keif 02-01-2012 08:51 AM

Nevermind, I found my alternator mounting bracket gasket replacement pictures. I still have yet to organize them and put descriptions on them, but here they are. --> here

Below are what my old gasket and surrounding looked like. The gasket was so hardened and brittle that I had to use a chisel/screwdriver and hammer to chip away at it...I broke several razor blades trying to hopelessly get under it. Clearly someone replaced it before and didn't expect it to stay sealed (note all the black gasket junk everywhere). However, the gasket I had in hand was plenty thick to make a strong seal; I used no gasket sealant and still have no leak.

A noteworthy thing if you don't have a lift: I used an engine support bar instead of an engine hoist (you can see in my set of pictures at the link above). By using an engine support bar, I was able to keep the engine at a static height while raising and lowering the car at will. If you use a normal engine hoist, then you have to lift the engine as you lift the car, and lower the engine as you lower the car, and I can't imagine how much of a pain that would be.

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7004/6...871f4cdfee.jpg http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7026/6...a59fbbc024.jpg

pkathee 02-01-2012 05:46 PM

Keif,
I am not sure what planet you came from but just by going through all your 100+ pictures detailing this scope of work almost made me wish that I didn't ask for a DIY help at all. This is a HUGE overhaul project man. I gotta give you the props. :bow:

Anyway, I prolly need a couple of days to do this job. I'll let you all know how it goes.

Thanks you all for your help.

745on22s 02-01-2012 07:40 PM

so by raising and using an engine support theres no need to drop the stablelizer bar or the hidraulic fluid lines?
is there a site where we can plug in our vin# and see if we have a water cooled alternator?

HerbP 02-01-2012 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 745on22s (Post 6603553)
so by raising and using an engine support theres no need to drop the stablelizer bar or the hidraulic fluid lines?
is there a site where we can plug in our vin# and see if we have a water cooled alternator?


An 04 should be air cooled!

745on22s 02-01-2012 08:28 PM

just checkd and yes its air coold.. also my fan blade is electric so not atached to the pulley, even tho im only getting a dribble i think im going to go ahead and do it this weekend well except for sunday!!! already did the Vacuum pump seal and case which saturated the oil pressure sensor and gave me a false message. these write ups and pictures are awsome!! props to keif, wilson009, khabar, etc....

Rookie2008 02-01-2012 08:34 PM

745on22s What was your false message?

745on22s 02-01-2012 08:59 PM

oil pressure low, turn off engine or engine damage may occure! something to that matter.

Keif 02-01-2012 09:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 745on22s (Post 6603553)
so by raising and using an engine support theres no need to drop the stablelizer bar or the hidraulic fluid lines?
is there a site where we can plug in our vin# and see if we have a water cooled alternator?

Because you have an '04, you have an air-cooled one, which is good, it's a bit easier to work with. And correct, no need to drop the sway bar if you use an engine support bar. You do have to move the power steering pump and reservoir out and over a bit to get them out of the way, but no disconnecting anything. Having that electric fan saves a little headache as well.

The DIY pictures are a mess right now, sorry, I'll probably delete a bunch when i clean them up, but for now better too many than too few I guess. =\

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Bimmer App

HerbP 02-02-2012 12:23 PM

For tools you will need metric hex sockets, male & female torx set, metric sockets, & some good beer to make the job easier. If you remove the engine mount nut 1st, the alternator will come out easier. The engine bracket bolts can be removed with a 3/8" taper gear wrench, due to space confinements. You will probably need a cheater bar for the wrench. Putting back standard hex head bolts back in, will allow you to properly torque the bolts when reinstalling. If you need some help removing any parts, try here!

http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/e65/745i_%28N62%29_SAL/

Good Luck

pkathee 02-02-2012 09:17 PM

Are there any other critical components/ parts that you would recommend I replace while undergoing the alternator housing gasket replacement project? Since i'll be down there, I wouldn't mind replacing something that is due or will probably be due soon. I have about 50K miles.

Let me know.

HerbP 02-03-2012 10:20 AM

You might want to inspect your belt & pulleys while you have them off. Everything else should be good!

Keif 02-05-2012 01:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by herbp (Post 6607458)
you might want to inspect your belt & pulleys while you have them off. Everything else should be good!

+1.

Rookie2008 02-05-2012 05:00 PM

Wow very helpful information guys .

pkathee 02-06-2012 10:51 PM

What tool for removal of Fan wheel
 
Keif or HerbP,
At first I thought I really dont need to remove the Fan wheel (attached to the water pump) and the fan cowl but then I remembered that i'll be lifting/supporting the engine at some point in order to remove the driver side motor mount and there is potential risk of breaking it out of place if not removed.
Anyway, link below shows a special tool 115050 when detaching fan wheel from water pump union nut.

http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/08/40/66

Is there any other tool I can use to improvise?

Rookie2008 02-07-2012 01:06 AM

Do you guys recommend changing water pump , water pump pulley and belts while changing gasket ?

HerbP 02-07-2012 08:19 AM

I would not worry with the water pump, or the water pump pulley. I would take a good look at the tensioner pulley, & the idle pulley. You will not be able to lift the engine more than 1 1/2" to 2" at the most. Nothing should get damaged in that area. Do not try to raise the engine, any more than you have to. Once you feel the engine stop moving, stop before you crack the transmission case. Keep an eye on everything while raising the engine.


Good Luck!

Keif 02-07-2012 09:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pkathee (Post 6615031)
Keif or HerbP,
At first I thought I really dont need to remove the Fan wheel (attached to the water pump) and the fan cowl but then I remembered that i'll be lifting/supporting the engine at some point in order to remove the driver side motor mount and there is potential risk of breaking it out of place if not removed.
Anyway, link below shows a special tool 115050 when detaching fan wheel from water pump union nut.

http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/s/view.pl?1/08/40/66

Is there any other tool I can use to improvise?

I bought this one --> here. Before that, I just made my own by grinding a semicircle out of a piece of metal and drilled/filed the holes in the proper places to grab the water pump pulley bolts. Remember, the water pump pulley / bolt for the fan is reverse-threaded, so you will turn clockwise to loosen.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rookie2008 (Post 6615116)
Do you guys recommend changing water pump , water pump pulley and belts while changing gasket ?

Try to wiggle the water pump pulley lightly by hand; if it's sloppy, replace. If it's been a year or so since you last replaced the belts or if you notice cracking along the ribs, replace the belts.

Rookie2008 02-07-2012 10:46 AM

Thanks guys.

pkathee 02-07-2012 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keif (Post 6615806)
I bought this one --> here. Before that, I just made my own by grinding a semicircle out of a piece of metal and drilled/filed the holes in the proper places to grab the water pump pulley bolts. Remember, the water pump pulley / bolt for the fan is reverse-threaded, so you will turn clockwise to loosen.



Try to wiggle the water pump pulley lightly by hand; if it's sloppy, replace. If it's been a year or so since you last replaced the belts or if you notice cracking along the ribs, replace the belts.

Keif,
Thanks, I just ordered that tool set from eBay ($42 including shipping). Also, I COMPLETELY disagree with you that the pump pulley bolt for the fan is reverse threaded. It's common sense that you turn anti-clockwise to loosen any bolt and not clockwise as you mentioned. By that I mean, if you are facing the actual fan bolt (by standing infront of it) then you will be turning it anti-clockwise, of which it is the same as turning it clockwise if you are behind it. So pretty much the same thing as your theory...lol just giving you crap.:)


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