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2007 BMW X3 Suspension Upgrade
I am currently planning to upgrade the following on my 2007 bmw X3:
-Front Struts (Bilstein) -Rear Shocks(Bilstein) -Front Springs(Eibach Prokit) -Rear Springs (Eibach Prokit) I am trying to find instructions on removal of the rear coil springs. I Plan to post pics of the complete DIY for the benefit of other forum members next week. |
Perfect. I will follow your thread
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I've subscribed to it and following it. Are you going to lower at all?
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I'm betting that the whole thing as your propose can be done for that amount or less. |
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http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...0&postcount=58 |
4 Attachment(s)
Still waiting for the remaining parts to deliver on Monday for part numbers please refer attachments. I will post pics of the parts on Monday night. Work is keeping me busy so this will be a DIY in installments. Please note some of the parts ordered are not required to be replaced. I have 53k miles on my vehicle and dont plan to touch the suspension for another 50K after this job. My symptom is a leaking front left strut and leaking right rear shocks. The vendors that i purchased from are eshocks.com, ddmtuning.com, bavauto.com, rmeuropean.com. Thanks to Supercourse I was trying to find out how to get the rear apart to reach the shock mounts.
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The parts arrived. Assembled the front strut pending the tightnening of the strut nut. The strut shaft uses a 8mm allen which i need to accquire.
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How come you decided to opt for this setup? Your car which suspsension setting did it have, sport or normal? Did you find the ride hard? Let us know how the new suspension setup feels afterwards!
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Looks good! This is the same setup that I put on our 2004 X3 last summer.
Still a firm ride, but much more controlled! And a lot more cost effective than replacing with original BMW replacement shocks / struts. The biggest pain for me was removing the interior trim panels in the rear cargo area. |
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Did this lower the truck at all on the 2004? I have a broken pig coil and I'm thinking about doing the same thing. |
I have standard suspension. The ride was spongy and i take turns fast. The X3 was hopping on Michelin tires and activating 4X4 at my turn speeds. So i needed a firm suspension to reduce body roll, lower the vehicle as well as reduce braking distance.
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It is supposed to lower by 1" front and rear.
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Great thread. Please keep the updates coming. I plan on doing the same upgrade to my recently aquired 2008 X3.
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16 Attachment(s)
Assembled both set of shocks. Remember the black side is up for the washer on the upper front spring mount otherwise the strut mount will not spin freely. The final torque check of the front strut to 55lbs will occur after install.
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what was your total cost for everything shipped?
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Awesome thread. Please post up pics of the install and any issues you have. I'm interested in hearing any issues/tricks with getting the rear springs out/in, in particular.
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Further progress has occured. I managed to install one front strut on the x3. Pictures to follow. Had to grind 1 18mm spanner to hold the sway bar link nut from spinning. The harbor freight grinder rocks:thumbup:
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I started doing this with Harbor Freight and my favorite Electronics Stores for my wife. Works wonders. Got my uber radar detector and polishing tools. So Xmech for those of us that are getting lazy in our old years what do you charge for this :) |
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Ok so front axle is complete.:thumbup: Attached are the pics.
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Steps Followed to Replace front Struts:
-Break Lug Nuts with car on ground -Use front jack point and jack up the car -Place Suv jack stands under the side jack points -Remove front wheels -Take a picture of the current install -Release the brake hose mount clip. -Gently remove the brake hose from the strut mount hook -Gently remove the other cables from the strut mount -Remove the sway bar link nut by using a socket and a ground 18mm wrench -Support the suspension as shown in the picture with the floor jack. -Remove the lower strut mount bolt and nut -Remove upper strut mount nuts. -Dont even think about removing the main strut shaft nut. That will be the most illogical act ever. -Now spray penetrating oil at the junction of the base of the strut. Let it sit overnight if you have the bandwith. -Try to move the strut by wiggling it from side to side. If it wigggles well and good spray a litle more penetrating oil. Remember to place rags under the base of the strut to prevent spraying oil all over your suspension. -Take a neoprene hammer and hammer at the strut sprint base plate. The strut will start moving towards the top. Gently lower the suspension to the max. Keep an eye on the drive shaft boot since you dont want to tear it when the axle will slightly pop out. Support with jack as shown in picture. -Keeping hammering by pushing down on the brake rotor front until strut is ready to pop out. At this point stop hammering. -Slowly remove strut. A this point the axle will pop out in the drive shaft boot. Dont panic!!! -Take the bilstein assembled strut and install in the strut mount cavity and use the old strut mount nuts to loosely bolt the strut to the car. -Match the two pins at the bottom of the strut with the slot in the strut mount. The rotor will be at an angle as shown in the pics. -firmly push the rotor towrads the car in a lifting motion such thet the axle moves back in. At this point wiggle the strut such that it is in the base of the strut. -Now place the jack as shown in the pics and apply force simulating a hydrauclic press. As the suspension rises the strut gradually moves in the base. Check periodically that the strut angle is accurate. -Apply penetrating oil at strut base to ensure smooth and easy movement. -As the strut starts moving into the base, raise the suspension higher until the drive is close to paralle to the ground and you will hear an sudden snaping noise which is the srut moving completely inthe the strut base. At this point the strut is now firmly seated in the base. -Install new upper strut mount nuts and torque to 25lbs. If you torque any higher you will shear the mount bolts. -Use throttle body cleaner to get rid of the penetrating oil at the bottom of the strut. -Install the lower strut bolt and torque to 85lbs. - lower the floor jack and install the sway bar link. I used the same torque as befroe aprox 65lbs. Mine were a little worn out so the next DIY will be replacing the sway bar links. -Install all the hoses in the mount as before. -Repeat for the other side. -Install Tires and tighten lug nuts as much as possible when on jack stands -Lower car and tighten lug nuts to 95lbs. -check the torque on the main strut shaft nut and install dust caps after ensuring that the grease in there is sufficient. -Time for a test drive. |
So I still have to do the rear. But decided to test drive the front. What a difference!
-Smoother acceleration -Fantastic braking response -Gobbles up the turns -Not harsh at all. Very smooth. Glad i chose this setup. Cant wait to install the rear.:thumbup: |
I noticed you have the same tires I do, and I also have the 17" wheel and standard suspension. Have you noticed any difference with the squishiness of the Primacy's? I'm looking to put the HD's on mine, but not sure about the lowering springs.
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