DIY: BMW E65/66 Crank Case Vent Valves CCV
BMW part # 11127547058 (if replacing both sides you will need two) $22.28 dealer price not after market
This is a Repair kit, pressure regulating valve
Torx (I used a Hex 6/32 since I did not have one)
Flat head screwdriver (thinnest one you have we work best)
1. Picture 1 - Remove Engine cover. Unscrew 4 torx (4 red arrows).
2. Picture 2 – Pop off side Engine covers. Note, these covers will need to be pulled outward and are held by two plug like screws (refer to picture 3 blue arrows right side and picture 4 left side CCV). Pop bottom first and move your hand to pull off the other. Slide the covers down as getting them out could take some time. Driver side with blue arrow is a little tricky as a hose is in the way.
3. Picture 5 (Picture 3 – Ride side CCV & Picture 4 – Left side CCV) – Release 4 of 6 clips/tabs and slowly pull upwards in a sliding downward motion to free the last two clips/tabs. IMPORTANT, E65/66 do not have the tubing connecting to the cap. Refer to picture 6.
4. Remove damaged/old rubber and spring. Replace with new spring (picture 7) and rubber.
5. Place Cap back on and firmly press down on each tab making sure they fasten. You should hear 6 clicks one for each tab.
6. Repeat steps 3-5 for other CCV
7. Replace both side engine covers
8. Replace top engine cover and screw back 4 torx screws
9. You successfully changed your CCV
Thank you Thank you
The internet truly is a marvelous thing if used right. my 2005 745i had been doing some very odd things these days and finally started shifting into nuetral at every light and stalling. It would start again but stall again as well. Forget stopping at a light on a hill. i'd still be there. So knowing what official BMW service places charge for finding these needles in haystacks, I went hunting on the internet and found a few articles all mentioning the CVV valve and this beautiful one with pics! Seemed easy enough but I've been suckered before ...
So i ride my bike to the nearest BMW dealership and paid double what I could have got these valves online but hey.. needed my car NOW and 80 bucks to try it out seemed pretty amazing to me - if it worked.
I printed out the pics, bought a star tool kit and went at it. The cover came off easy enough and so did the two caps on each side. It was tricky to get the old valve covers off but if you break a few tabs on them - so what - you're tossing them anyway.
As soon as I got the first cap off I could see the problem. The rubber seal was pretty much ripped over half way around. The left side was even worse and was just hanging on by a rubber band sized piece. Now I was excited - this could really work. I popped in the new springs and rubber valves and pushed the caps on - snap - all set. Side covers were a little tricky but went on after a few tries. The total repair took i swear 15 minutes max to change out both of units and when I started it...... OMG... it was like a new car.
Smooth as silk idle and no stall tendencies at all.
Some things are tougher than they appear or described but with the help of this article - this was not one of them. Easy as pie and who knows how much I saved by trying this first. From what I hear - BMW techs can keep trying things till you're living in a van down by the river.
This was a great article and I owe a huge thanks for whoever put it together. if you've got similiar problems with your 745i, stalling at lights, rough idle.. etc... don;t even think about a tech doing this. order both online for 33 bucks and feel like the king of the world when the damn thing hums like a kitten.
Thanks for the post.
I noticed there is a pipe connected to ccv tip. My car dose not have that which is weird.
Do you know where dose the pipe connect to on the other end.
Thanks in advance
I just replaced mine this weekend and I don't have any tubes connected to mine either. Whats up with this?
The n62b44 was used on a few other models also, 545i; 645i; x5 with 4.4... My e65 falls under this category of no tubes but if i recall correctly there may be some 04 & 05s with slightly differing ccv setups on the valve covers. I also remember seeing one with hoses on it as well. Main purpose of ccv is to vent crankcase pressure and when that rubber goes, you basically have a huge vacuum leak and thats what causes the stalling.
@Collins912: was going to do mine soon also and realized I didn't have any air lines connected to mine either! Maybe this is just normal depending on your engine model!
I replaced the CCVs on my 545i (2005) but the new caps do not have a nozzle to attach the hose, even though the included paper sheet shows the cap with a nozzle. Your has the same problem, exactly as you show in the "new" photo. I had to use the old caps.
How are you suppose to connect the hose using the new caps? /Users/hughcree/Desktop/IMG_3050.jpg
Wow, 135,000 miles and my CVV were toast. What a difference in the smoothness and pick up. Over 100,000, its time to do preventive maintenance. Great DIY in this thread.:thumbup:
This has to be one of the easiest DIY jobs I've ever done. This took less than 1/2 hour this weekend at a cost of $32* for both CCV valves. Only one really needed replacing but went ahead and replaced them both.
There's an asterisk appended to the cost of the CCV valves because while that is what they cost, there was an additional cost to me in having my local BMW shop diagnose the exact cause for the rough idle at start up. So when this is factored in, I saved $100. So anyone else experiencing rough idle, just take a few minutes to check the condition of your CCV valves before taking it anywhere.
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