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-   -   Tripped EML,DSC,Brake lights HELP! :/ (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=626419)

Stork501 06-11-2012 02:08 AM

Tripped EML,DSC,Brake lights HELP! :/
 
1 Attachment(s)
2003 330i
So today the EML, DSC and BREAK lights lit up my dash today 2 times. First time as i was driving to my friends house to detail his new Corvette and then again while i was pulling up to my house. Each time it happens i pull over and restart my car and it all clears. Also i have been noticing while my car is at a stop light my car kinda wobbles? when it idles. It shakes and i can feel it and i look at my passenger seat belt and it wobbles but makes no car death sounds.

I have noticed in the last month my car is falling apart around me... :/ i have about a good 6 things that need to be repaired but i cant afford some of them because i am a firefighter in training lol, so i am hoping this one is not going to break my bank.

ask any questions about this and i can answer to the best of my knowledge.
Any thoughts and ideas?

thank you all.

P_T 06-11-2012 08:17 AM

Hey brother...just pull the codes before you get bent out of shape about what it will cost...it may be a quick fix. Keep in mind that most of the parts on these cars, snap or bolt on. If you have the smarts to be a firefighter, you can wrench on the car...but you have to know what is wrong first.

Pull the codes post them here and go from there. While you are waiting on getting the codes pulled, reade the WIKI, lots of great info there.

Rudyj07 06-11-2012 08:25 AM

It is your speed sensors. They are located on this inside of your hubs and will get road fragments and such on them. Pop them out and clean with brake cleaner

P_T 06-11-2012 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rudyj07 (Post 6888641)
It is your speed sensors. They are located on this inside of your hubs and will get road fragments and such on them. Pop them out and clean with brake cleaner

I agree that the speed sensors are the most likely item, however you won't really know without the codes.

Stork501 06-11-2012 11:58 AM

Can I get the codes read with out them being tripped?

ffej 06-11-2012 02:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stork501 (Post 6888990)
Can I get the codes read with out them being tripped?

Tripped? :dunno:

Not sure what you mean by that. Autozone, Kragen, etc. should be able to read the codes for free for you. At least then you'll know what you're dealing with.

Stork501 06-11-2012 04:19 PM

what i mean by tripped is that my car dash sometimes lights up like a Christmas tree haha, and do the the 3 lights have to be present at the time of the reading? because they have only been on 2 times and they turn off when i restart the car, also in California bay area kregen and auto zone and all car part and supply places of that nature dont do car readings anymore in my area.

but i will find a place and get my car read and will post the codes

Stork501 06-11-2012 08:11 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Well as I was driving today the 3 lights came on and my check engine light came on with it and my cruse control stopes working after that came on... It was working all day.. I hope the car turned it off and de activated it

P_T 06-12-2012 08:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stork501 (Post 6889891)
Well as I was driving today the 3 lights came on and my check engine light came on with it and my cruse control stopes working after that came on... It was working all day.. I hope the car turned it off and de activated it

The cruise shut off most likely because there was a bad signal from the wheel speed sensor. The lights will go on and off. Like was said earlier...get your codes checked!!

LX-biker 06-13-2012 06:08 PM

I having the same when not driving car for 3 days and then start the car. After driving 1 minutes lights go off. For sure I have to replace battery before winter, nothing else. No matter what code you get, ask to test them your battery. If it original, then good time replace it.

jonathan2263 06-14-2012 05:16 AM

The car will store fault codes so even if the lights aren't on, the codes can still be read.
It sounds like wheel speed sensors, but our ats are very battery dependent and display a lot of electrical weirdness as the battery gets week. Be sure to have it tested too.

neds bimmer 06-17-2012 06:34 AM

When you get the eml and the other lights does your car go into limp mode-this is when you lose full power and the car runs like in asafe mode. Need you to give a little more info and try to get codes read. Most bmw dealers will perform the diagnostic for no charge, in other words give you a read out of all the codes that your cars computer has stored. Then what they will charge you for is to specificially track down each specific problem.

Stork501 07-02-2012 02:56 PM

160 throttle actuator blocked momentarily

119 throttle valve 2 versus air mass signal

22702 bank 1 control deviation

Anyone have any ideas?

Fast Bob 07-02-2012 03:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stork501 (Post 6930242)
160 throttle actuator blocked momentarily

119 throttle valve 2 versus air mass signal

22702 bank 1 control deviation

Anyone have any ideas?

How old is the battery in that car ? If you don`t know, or if it`s more than 4 years old, replace it ASAP....Walmart or Autozone have suitable replacements for right around $100. We see a TON of guys coming through here on a regular basis, with their cars acting up, seemingly unrelated problems. An *overwhelming* majority of them have weak/failing batteries as a primary cause for these problems.

Stork501 07-02-2012 04:22 PM

I would have to look at the battery and check all of that, this was suggested on fanatics:

***Rule out the simple things first. Clean your TB, DISA, ICV, and MAF. Reseal the DISA with german auto solutions seal, and TB with genuine BMW T seal. Clean ICV with brake cleaner and MAF w/ MAF cleaner (though many say they've cleaned their MAF with carb or TB cleaner and is fine) I'd just buy the right stuff. Not damaging your $200 maf is worth the chance of wasting an extra $5 on MAF cleaner vs. TB cleaner***

Brobby87 07-02-2012 08:01 PM

Not to totally steal the thread but I figured I'd post it here rather than start another thread. I have the same issue only no EML light. The other two (DSC and Brake) have came on and stayed on since they started. I've been driving like this for half a year now. Luckily the past winter here in Iowa wasn't bad.

Even though the EML light is not on could it still be one of the wheel speed sensors?

I've had no funky electrical gremlins so I'm almost certain it's not the battery

jvr826 07-02-2012 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brobby87 (Post 6930745)
I've had no funky electrical gremlins so I'm almost certain it's not the battery

This does not mean your battery is fine. I was a passenger in a friend's E46 M3 that had zero symptoms... none, nothing, nada! We drove a mile, turned off the car, ran an errand, and when we came back to the car, it would not start. The dash lit up and all sorts of weird stuff was going on. That was the symptom.

Fortunately he had another battery at home, so we walked to get it, returned in my car, installed it, problem solved.

Moral of the story is... you cannot rule out the battery simply because nothing appears wrong. I've read about it here and have first-hand experience that they can go at any time without warning. If it's 4 years old or older, you may be on borrowed time.

Fast Bob 07-02-2012 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stork501 (Post 6930408)
I would have to look at the battery and check all of that, this was suggested on fanatics:

***Rule out the simple things first. Clean your TB, DISA, ICV, and MAF. Reseal the DISA with german auto solutions seal, and TB with genuine BMW T seal. Clean ICV with brake cleaner and MAF w/ MAF cleaner (though many say they've cleaned their MAF with carb or TB cleaner and is fine) I'd just buy the right stuff. Not damaging your $200 maf is worth the chance of wasting an extra $5 on MAF cleaner vs. TB cleaner***

Being SURE you have a solid, reliable power source **IS** the first step....without that, doing all this other crap doesn`t mean a thing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brobby87 (Post 6930745)
Not to totally steal the thread but I figured I'd post it here rather than start another thread. I have the same issue only no EML light. The other two (DSC and Brake) have came on and stayed on since they started. I've been driving like this for half a year now. Luckily the past winter here in Iowa wasn't bad.

Even though the EML light is not on could it still be one of the wheel speed sensors?

I've had no funky electrical gremlins so I'm almost certain it's not the battery

You`d better consider a closer analysis of that last sentence, Sport....

Brobby87 07-02-2012 08:21 PM

Well I guess this is why I come to the site. Thanks for the advice.

bluebee 07-02-2012 10:37 PM

Weird things happen to bimmers when you don't have reliable power:
- One user's experience debugging a half-dead instrument cluster (1) which, after testing the fuses (1) battery & alternator (1) thankfully turned into an alternative battery search (1) and a simple battery replacement DIY (1)

You can easily check the power using this information:
- DIY how to test a BMW battery & alternator

I would suggest the OP read this post which shows how to check the speed sensors in about five minutes:
- How to diagnose the BMW ABS BRAKE DSC/ASC trifecta (1) & why the 5-minute ABS DIY quick test doesn't always work, especially on brand new non-OEM wheel speed sensors, by Quick99Si (1)

Note: All of these are from the bestlinks.

bosss25 10-04-2012 01:16 PM

Guys, i am having the same problem. EML, break, and DSC/ASC lit up 2 times today. It did this last week twice and once a few weeks before that. Each time i turn the car off for a few minutes it works well. So i took it in to get it checked twice, both times the scanner did not detect any faults, im tired of this problem everyone is saying diff things, some ppl say its the gas pedal box i donno if i got the name right, my mechanic says it could be that the car's computer is loosing it. So if anyone could hel it would be great.

numindast 10-04-2012 01:35 PM

bosss25, how old is your battery? A failing battery doesn't seem to throw any codes that can be read by a scanner. It could be causing false alarms via dash lights.

neds bimmer 10-04-2012 06:22 PM

1 check battery with multi meter with car not running. should have at least 12 to 12 and a half volts.
2 check battery with car running should be at least 12 to 14 volts.
3 car running pull off one of the battery cable from either positive or negative while car is running.
4 if car dies bad alternator
5 like everybody has said you must start with a good battery supply source.
6 also make sure that there is a tight connection on both positive and negative posts; and that all connections are clean and free of corresion. this sounds simple but it is the most important first step. you must start at a and then b and c if you skip you will cause yourself a lot of grief. if you have a good scanner of your own then try pulling codes. if not then go to auto store and see if they will pull and give them to you. or dealer will for fee pull them. once you have done all or a least made sure you have good battery get back to me and i will give you some other avenues to try that are fairly easy to do and not overly time consuming.

bosss25 10-05-2012 11:15 AM

Ok i will try that. Although My battery is about 8 months old, however it 100amps dry cell i dont know if that makes any difference or not. But ill keep u posted. Thnx in advance.

bosss25 10-06-2012 10:03 PM

Alright guys, i followed the steps as stated. My battery is fine there is a good connection it read 12.5 when car was off, 14.5 when car was on, the car stayed on when i removed the negative cable. I took it in to my mechanic and there were no codes to read. Any more suggestions?


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