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-   -   Z3 Roadster (E36/7) Roadster Rear Window Replacement (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=637077)

Dan Brush 08-03-2012 11:10 AM

Roadster Rear Window Replacement
 
Preparing to replace the Roadster rear window. Concerned that by using anything other than an OEM it could negatively effect resale? Also concerned that raising and lowering will cause a maintenance problem on the Emita window? Ideas?

dkindig 08-03-2012 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dan Brush (Post 6988901)
Preparing to replace the Roadster rear window. Concerned that by using anything other than an OEM it could negatively effect resale? Also concerned that raising and lowering will cause a maintenance problem on the Emita window? Ideas?

eMiata window shouldn't affect resale if properly installed. It is actually a clearer, more durable material than the OEM. My only beef with it (and why I changed my window installed by a previous owner) is that the canvas trim around the edge kept coming loose, curling up, and looking less than finished.

The best idea I have seen yet for protecting the rear window (OEM or otherwise) is to cut a pool noodle to length, cover it with a towel and insert it in the fold while lowering the top.

Dan Brush 08-04-2012 09:22 AM

Thanks kindig. FYI I have received a price of $1000.00 to replace top w/window -or- $500.00 for the window only, on the Z3! Sure that I can do the window replacement and save a few $$.
At this point feel that I will go with the OEM. Dan

dkindig 08-04-2012 12:34 PM

Windows are tedious, but not hard. There are a number of walk-throughs floating around on the net. I would say the best hint I can give you is to lay a blanket across your trunk, remove your antenna from the base, and lay the window on the blanket with the inside surface up. That way you can fold out the bottom of the zipper in the top and get it started without working inside the car. Be careful about putting too much weight on the trunk lid/trim panel there because it's easy to get small dents from your weight.

When you start the zipper, start it going to your right (toward the passenger side of the car) and work it around in a counter-clockwise direction (looking from the back of the car). A lot of people have started the zipper in the wrong direction and when they got to the portion that overlaps they realized it and had to start all over again. Also, come up with a way to temporarily cinch together the starting end of the zipper while you're zipping the window in so that your starting point doesn't pull apart on you while you're working (hemostats?). Another tip to help with starting the zipper is if the fabric for the section in the top is too flimsy you can soak it with a little bit of super glue at the starting point to firm it up.

Another gotcha is if the thread holding the zipper into the top starts coming loose. Mine did and I ended up getting some Coates and Clarke Outdoor Living thread (designed for upholstering outdoor furniture) and restitching the entire length of zipper. It was much cheaper than a new top since the top itself had plenty of life left in it. It was really, really tedious though... :yikes:

If that is something you might think about doing, let me know as I can give you some hints on the process. Good luck!

Dan Brush 08-04-2012 03:15 PM

dkindig - you are a wealth of good information! Thanks for sending along and I will note your suggestions and recommendations.

Dan Brush 08-04-2012 03:18 PM

dkindig - you are a wealth of good information! Thanks for sending along and I will note your suggestions and recommendations. Still getting use to the format of this site and hope to get it right one of these days. Dan

dkindig 08-04-2012 10:08 PM

Oh, forgot a couple of other hints/suggestions for you...

When installing the new window, prop the front edge of the top open a few inches to relax the fabric somewhat. Also, to prevent the fabric around the edge of the window from lifting back out from under the piping where it tucks in, run a thin bead of Permatex Flowable Windshield Sealant around the edge of the window before tucking the top material under. A new window should have double-sided tape around the edge that is designed to hold the fabric down, but the sealant will give you additional grip. Do the tucking in with the top completely up so that you have the tension to work against.

Dan Brush 08-05-2012 06:11 AM

Your thoughts and recomendations are much appreciated. Wonder if you would care to exchange e-mail addresses for further discussion? I am 74, retired from education, three daughters, four grandchildren and one remaining son-in-law!? Either way, thanks. Dan

wmcq6 08-10-2012 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dkindig (Post 6990746)
Another tip to help with starting the zipper is if the fabric for the section in the top is too flimsy you can soak it with a little bit of super glue at the starting point to firm it up.
outdoor furniture) and restitching the entire length of zipper. It was much cheaper than a new top since the top itself had plenty of life left in it. It was really, really tedious though... :yikes:

If that is something you might think about doing, let me know as I can give you some hints on the process. Good luck!

Please share more info as I am in need of re-stitching the zipper before replacing window. I actually got mine to clear up to the point of saying good enough for now but the dang stitching releasing keeps the car in the garage even on cloudy days. I will also need to seal the edges and clear permatex has been suggested many places

Dan Brush 08-10-2012 12:20 PM

I have the e-Bay replacement window on order from David Hard. I am hopeful that it is just the answer? Have lined up another pair of hands and look forward to the installation after the shipment arrival. My Z has been garaged and the top is in very good shape. Hopefully, it will not be too much of a problem. Thanks to DKindig I have a number of good suggestions to work with. Good luck on you project. Anxious to hear how you make out. Dan


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