Dealer wants a small fortune to change my plugs at 80k miles. Is this a DIY job for someone who's reasonably capable mechanically? I've changed plus in older v8's many times.
Here is the service manual details,
In my opinion it depends upon how much patience and time you have.
You do not even want to start unless you have the patience to complete the task, otherwise you will start to break things, making it very bad.
Do a search. There are a few threads on spark plug replacement with good tips. The rear two plugs by the firewall are a total pain in the arse to remove.
I changed mine and it wasn't a piece of cake thanks to the ignition coils by the firewall.
Clean the threads with a greased tap (to trap any debris). Fit using hi-temp never sieze (loctite 757 I think).
6 series Spark plug change
Have u done the spark plug change yet?
Its pretty easy to change them, I guess the important things that will make it happen is as follows:
1) Unhook the Battery! Take out MicroFilter housing off and its base in which you have to unplug the hood switch and a sensor. Easy to do just turn to left 90 degree on plastic bolt looking retainers and one torx scew on each side. Also unbolt the sway bar with Torx drivers
2) Take off Engine cover which is at the top to get to the spark plug plastic cover that has the big BMW
3) To take the plastic Spark Plug Cover on right you have to unplug the quick connect fuel line which has a gray plastic retainer. Pull retainer off and then push in the black plastic towards where the retainer was then pull out the other side off. Gasoline will drip or splash. Just pull the whole cover up
4) Open the red jumper terminal and also the back side of it which is black. Just take bolt off the right one and pull it off and also unplug a small black wire that runs with it near the air filter, then unbolt the plastic cover of the red wire near the firewall which is in front of the last plug on the right. On the the other side just unbolt the Service Port and the push a little down
5) Unbolt the retaining clasp with 5 mm on the inverted torx looking bolt that holds the ignition coils
6) Pull the tabs on the ignition coil to a 90 degree angle which pushes the wires off, and then twist and wiggle the ignition coils to loosen and pull where the wires were with finger and use a screwdriver on the other side to pry the back part of the tab to pull ignition coil off
7) Then using a series for unscrewing the last two plugs near the firewall, where 5/8 spark plug tool is connected to 3/8 to 1/4 adaptor then to a 1/4 universal to 1/4 3 inches extension then 1/4 to 3/8 adaptor to 3/8 universal then 3/8 6 inches extension. I used a breaker bar to break then ratchet.
8) Then reverse with New Spark Plugs
Fuel Line Retainer needs to be put back on and also the Positive Jumper cable in place before you hook battery back on... just saying to be careful with this two...
One hint use the OEM plugs Bosch FR7KPP332 because thay are easier to pull ignition coils from because of the smooth ceramic surface thay have. The NGK has sort of bumps which adds suction to it, that is if you plan on replacing plugs again, but for longer life use the Iridiums except the Pulstars which I have heard will trigger error codes...
Fuel Line Quick Connect in the middle Push black plastic in to the metal tube to pull out on the other side
My Tool so as to fit in the tight space for the last two plugs near the firewall
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