94 e 36 318 i sputters backfires
 

checked for vac leaks, replaced maf, cleaned throttle body and icv, spark wires ok, swapped tps ...q? What would mess with the timing to make it backfire?....heeelp

update, took out dme cleaned the contacts and car is running fine now...i have a sinking feeling this car has been under water

sinking feeling...underwater....hahahahahah!!!!!



did you search 'wet dme repair', and also 'sunroof drains' to make sure these aren't the causes of the water intrusion??




happy sailing....:angel:

df

Car running ****ty again.....any ideas?

More info required.

Did you do what df said?

Took dme out looked ok, cleaned it same problem cleaned coil connections car running good now, lets see how long it lasts

"Looking at it" won't do anything.

You have to open it and confirm that there is no discolouration due to water having gotten in there and dried leaving contaminating deposits that short out the DME.

Yeah the dme seems to be ok, it doesn't appear to have gotten wet. If it helps when the sputtering starts if I floor the gas pedal the engine catches again but at higher RPMs. Also when the AC or lights are on the problem is worse. The alternator has already been replaced. Thanks for everyones input.

The alternator has been replaced. OK. Is it actually putting out the rated amperage? Because your last clue makes me think it's marginal at best. Turning on the lights and/or air conditioner should have very little if any effect on engine speed and smoothness. I think you're running on battery mostly, and it's barely able to keep the ignition running.

Agreed. Especially if it was a reman alternator. I've had to do 2 alternators under warranty for premature failure this month alone.

You need to pull the cover on it and look for corroded solder joints, if there are then you might be able to clean with alcohol and a tooth brush then if you can touch the solder connections with a solder iron to re-solder the connections. Be very care full doing this. Check the resistance on your coils, crank and cam sensors. Like Ken said could be your alternator output too. My money is on your crank sensor. One other thing check you fuel pressure and your spark plug wires. If these two things haven't been replaced yet then replace the filter first and so on.

I think i found my problem...i took the vacuum line from the fpr and no change,.so i took a pair of vise grips and plugged the line and now the car runs fine, i guess that explains the hard cold starts....on my way to the store to get one

What's the fpr?

Fuel pressure regulator

i fail to see how removing the vacuum to the fpr will make it run better....unless you are running on very low fuel pressure. in which case, a new fpr will probably not be the proper fix for it.

i would check your fuel pressure reading and see what the reading is compared to spec. if low, then replace the pump and fuel filter. like sneakers and laces, they should go together.




df

Yes iam running lower fp but the sputtering and backfiring are gone...could it be that the fpr is getting stuck
Closed......cause it acts like the car is running out of fuel, thanks for the input

how low is your fuel pressure?? if below minimum spec, then you have an issue. if could be a restricted fuel filter, kinked fuel line, or something.

i doubt the fpr is the cause of low fuel pressure. i have never seen one 'stuck' in a low fuel supply issue. ever. they usually leak, due to a ruptured diaphram. the vac line then sucks this extra fuel up and floods the engine. no fuel is supposed to go in the vac line. ever.

they can also fail causing the fuel pressure to go high. like waaaay high. too high. and no change when the vac line is removed from the port, which should push the pressure up about 10psi or so.

your description dd not sound like this, so that's why i stated check the fuel pressure.

what is the reading on the fuel pressure??




df

problem solved!!!!! Ribbon ground from chasis missing, ground from alternator to chasis loose........car runs great now