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-   -   Slow Overheating evry other day (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=644733)

Primcast 09-09-2012 04:12 PM

Slow Overheating evry other day
 
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Hello every-1.
I have been monitoring this site for a while now and finally have the balls to join this fantastic site.
I must say that, I'm very disappointed with my 2002 X5 since owning it 2yrs ago.
It's been 1 problem after another. From Axle to Suspension to AC.

The resent one started after replacing the AC blower motor resistor. AC blower came back on-line for about 1hr and then it started blowing warm air intermittently, particularly when I'm idling, in slow traffic or @ a light. Freon level measured normal. Then occasionally. the coolant level signal indicated low and had to top it every other day, but could not observe point of leakage at the time.
It turns out that it leaks from the mid-level hose connection @ the expansion tank when the engine is off. I removed the expansion tank for inspection, but there are no visible cracks.
I also made direct connection from battery terminals to the Auxiliary fan pins, but the fun did not come on.

Q?:

1) Is this the correct way to "TEST" the aux fan?
2) Can this type of leakage be caused by a faulty aux fan?
3) If not, then what should I focus my attention on and what parts need to be replaced?

Scott ZHP 09-10-2012 07:12 AM

Replace the expansion tank; it's not holding pressure. Replace the cap as well.

You cannot test the aux fan by hard wiring it. It takes inputs from several things.

Primcast 09-10-2012 11:54 AM

Slow Overheating evry other day
 
Thank you Scott ZHP for responding with such a short & definative answer..lol.
Sometimes, I do not understand "car talk":)

I have ordered the following:
1. Expansion tank
2. Coolant level sensor
3. Reservior hose
4. FAE Fan switch
5. Beck Amley Coolant Temp Sensor &
6. Behr Thermostat

Other thoughts indicates that this may be caused by a faulty FSR unit can cause the Aux Fan to mulfunction. What's your take on that? I thought the FSR controls only the AC Blower?

Scott ZHP 09-10-2012 01:28 PM

Doubt it's the FSR (aka porcupine). When it fails, the blower acts wonky, but that's about it.

If you have an automatic transmission, you will probably need the transmission thermostat. If fits into the bottom of the expansion tank and most guys break it trying to replace the expansion tank. If you're really lucky you wont, but it's best to have a spare on hand just in case. THis is NOT the same part as the coolant thermostat.

Primcast 09-10-2012 03:53 PM

Thanks a million Scott ZHP, I will update you on progress. U know, One thing i left out was that, the AC Schrader Valve Cap @ the High pressure end got bursted and leaked out all the Freon. That will be coming in with these orders and then will have to refill & charge the AC system.

1. Can that cause the AUX fan to sieze?
2. What is the process of filling and bleeding the cooling system?
3. Can I refill the AC Freon using the Canned ones from my local auto store?

Scott ZHP 09-11-2012 06:03 AM

The aux fan controller takes inputs from a whole bunch of things including the A/C system, specifically refrigerant pressure (others are coolant temp, battery voltage, vehicle speed, catalyst temp). It probably won't spin at all if you have no refrigerant. I doubt it's seized; if you can spin it by hand, it's usually fine. There were two seperate recalls (SIBs in BMW speak) to REPLACE faulty aux fans. Might want to check your VIN against the range. Make sure we're talking about the same fan; it's an electric fan located right behind the bumper IN FRONT of the radiator.

To fill the cooling system, replace the parts you need (water pump, thermostat, exp tank, pressure cap at a MINIMUM). Open the bleed screw in the top hose. Slowly fill the exp tank with 50/50 mix of BMW BLUE coolant and distilled water. Burp (squeeze) the top hose to help remove air bubbles. When tank appears "full", start the engine and turn the HEATER on full hot with fan on MAX. If no leaks, continue to add coolant until tank is full. Run engine for a few mins to open the thermostat; top off the exp tank again and replace the cap; close the bleed screw and run for another minute or two. Gently open bleed screw to allow any air to escape; gently screw it closed (do NOT strip it, it's plastic). Allow to cool, check for leaks again and top off exp tank. Reset HVAC temp and fan settings to normal.

I don't like the all in one recharge kits from Autozone, etc. I use a manifold gauge set ($40, Harbor Freight tools) with straight R134a. The kits work fine, but it's a crap shoot for how much you're adding. You can't read the high and low side pressures using one of these kits. It's poke and hope and very easy to overcharge the system. Overcharging is as bad as undercharging.

Primcast 09-11-2012 06:27 AM

Thanks again Scott ZHP for the detailed directions. To be clear, When adding or topping the antifreeze, should I leave the expansion Cap off whiles the engine is running and then top-off gradually or the Cap needs to be in place when the motor is running?

Thank

Scott ZHP 09-11-2012 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Primcast (Post 7066666)
Thanks again Scott ZHP for the detailed directions. To be clear, When adding or topping the antifreeze, should I leave the expansion Cap off whiles the engine is running and then top-off gradually or the Cap needs to be in place when the motor is running?

Thank

Off until it's full, even when running. When you think it's full and you know the thermostat is open, close the cap and open the bleed screw to bleed air. Then close the bleed screw.

Primcast 09-11-2012 08:48 AM

I appreciate your patience very much. I shall keep you posted.
Have a gr8 day!

Scott ZHP 09-11-2012 11:59 AM

If the water pump is original, NOW is the time to replace it. Remember the fan clutch is reverse threaded. Do a search for a DIY on how to remove it.

Primcast 09-11-2012 04:29 PM

I don't have to take the fan off, do I? cos I was only going to change the Expantion tank and the sensors. I will only come back to the Aux Fan if after charging the AC, the fan still does not come on. Isn't that the plan?

Scott ZHP 09-12-2012 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Primcast (Post 7067903)
I don't have to take the fan off, do I? cos I was only going to change the Expantion tank and the sensors. I will only come back to the Aux Fan if after charging the AC, the fan still does not come on. Isn't that the plan?

There are TWO FANS. The engine driven cooling fan and the aux fan. One is mechanical (engine), the other is electrical (aux).

While you're replacing the exp tank, I am suggesting you replace the water pump. Cooling systems are a weakness of the M54 engine. Pumps are good for about 75K miles. If you are running the original pump, NOW is the time to replace it.

In order to replace it, you need to remove the ENGINE FAN, which is attached to the nose of the water pump via a viscous clutch.

Primcast 09-14-2012 02:55 AM

Gud morning Scott ZHP. Ok! the Water pump was delivered yesterday and will be installed today.
1. My radiator drain plug is rusted and the head screw broken off, do you know of a process to pry this out?
2. What is the process of flashing the system?

Scott ZHP 09-14-2012 10:06 AM

Never seen one rusted. The tanks and the plugs are plastic.


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