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-   -   Popping noise in the front end (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=649307)

Peck 10-01-2012 06:20 PM

Popping noise in the front end
 
I have a 2005 645, 86k miles. When I go around corners fairly fast I get a pop noise in the front end. Just one pop, I can feel it too. Only happens when the front end is under a heavy load, hard cornering, not everytime I go around a corner. Anyone had this happen to them?

Sent from my LG-P999 using Bimmer App

Yorgi 10-01-2012 06:27 PM

Do you have dynamic drive? You might have an issue with the hydraulics.

If you don't have dynamic drive it could be a broken sway bar bracket, worn out endlinks or a worn out thrust arm bushing.

Peck 10-02-2012 09:31 AM

I have active steering. Is that the dynamic drive? I hope I don't have hydraulic issues. It doesn't happen all the time, just when I go fast thru an intersection on a right or left turn, sometimes while going over a bump in the corner.

Sent from my LG-P999 using Bimmer App

Mulchman 10-02-2012 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peck (Post 7108716)
I have active steering. Is that the dynamic drive? I hope I don't have hydraulic issues. It doesn't happen all the time, just when I go fast thru an intersection on a right or left turn, sometimes while going over a bump in the corner.

Sent from my LG-P999 using Bimmer App

Check your power steering fluid level. It also supplies the dynamic drive system. At least you'll know if the system is leaking or not.

john@eac 10-02-2012 12:02 PM

I would check the sway bar end links.

Peck 10-02-2012 01:26 PM

Thanks guys, I will check the power steering fluid. I'm betting its the thrust arm bushings or sway bar bracket.

Yorgi 10-02-2012 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Peck (Post 7108716)
I have active steering. Is that the dynamic drive? I hope I don't have hydraulic issues. It doesn't happen all the time, just when I go fast thru an intersection on a right or left turn, sometimes while going over a bump in the corner.

Sent from my LG-P999 using Bimmer App

Active steering is separate from the active anti-sway bars. You can have one or the other or both. Power steering, active steering and dynamic drive (sway bars) all share the same power steering fluid pump and reservoir so I would second Mulchman's suggestion to check the fluid level.

If you are hearing clunks over bumps like railway tracks it is more likely end links, thrust arm bushings or thrust arm ball joints which are very common wear items on all BMWs. They are also not that expensive which is good news.

#11 and #16 are the thrust arms:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/s/y/216.png

#3 and 4 are the sway bar brackets that can break or come loose, #8 is the endlink:
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/r/g/178.png

mrtwo2 10-28-2012 06:49 PM

I have an 04 645 with 83k miles and with the same problem. at first it happened and then it went away. couldnt tell what it was, but it came back a month later with a vengence. so this gives me an idea where to start.

Skarv 10-31-2012 10:01 PM

Shock Tower Braces
 
It could be the complicated things you guys mention, but this was the source of this sound in my car. Very disconcerting as it seems like something major is about to release and pop in the suspension. Like old time american cars with worn balljoints. Anyway, I found that in my car it was no more complicated that tightening the Shock Tower braces. You need a fairly large Torx socket. Maybe 10mm but you better check the exact size. These braces have a cross-hatched pattern in their underside, and the shock towers have a similar texturing. On my car, the texture had worn off of the shock tower from enough motion between the two parts. Anyway, a good torquing of the bolts, and I haven't heard back from the front end in 15,000 miles.

I'm adding pictures below of the parts I'm talking about. They are the black round tubes that come from the middle of the car behind the engine out to the top of the shock tower housings.

Your only challenge is getting under the middle section under the windshield and behind the engine as this requires you to take out the pollen filters and the plastic housings that hold them. It is really quite easy, but looks like a bigger pain in the head than it is. Just open the filter housings and take out all the nuts and bolts holding them in.

Don't skip the central ones. More complicated, but in my car, these too were loose.

Good luck. For what its worth, your description is exactly what I was experiencing.

If this is your problem, then it only costs 15 minutes under the hood to take things apart enough to tighten all four bolts... and the cost of the torx socket.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/pic...ictureid=31224
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/pic...ictureid=31223

mrtwo2 11-10-2012 06:57 PM

it happens to be the bearings.....damn

Skarv 02-19-2013 04:52 PM

1 Attachment(s)
For those interested, I did my spark plugs last weekend so I took a picture of the two bolts that have to be tightened in the middle of the car. To get to these, it is simple: Remove the pollen filters by opening the wire snap on the inside, and turn the plastic hex nut on the other side 90 degrees. These are just keyed to a slot and are not screws so don't over keep turning or you will break off the tab... as some mechanic had to one of mine. Now you can see all of the hex head keys that have to be turned 90 degrees. I think there were 3 or 4 per side. Turn them all so they release the filter housings. You will also see rubber moldings at the junction with the fenders. Lift these out, ... while noting their orientation. They are counter intuitive. Then lift out the driver side filter carrier from the middle first and it will pull a duct out of the fender and end up in your hands. Do the same on the other side and you will be ready to tighten the tower brace bolts. No need to undress the engine for this, but I had to for the spark plugs.

Indus 07-21-2013 09:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Skarv (Post 7169342)
It could be the complicated things you guys mention, but this was the source of this sound in my car. Very disconcerting as it seems like something major is about to release and pop in the suspension. Like old time american cars with worn balljoints. Anyway, I found that in my car it was no more complicated that tightening the Shock Tower braces. You need a fairly large Torx socket. Maybe 10mm but you better check the exact size. These braces have a cross-hatched pattern in their underside, and the shock towers have a similar texturing. On my car, the texture had worn off of the shock tower from enough motion between the two parts. Anyway, a good torquing of the bolts, and I haven't heard back from the front end in 15,000 miles.

I'm adding pictures below of the parts I'm talking about. They are the black round tubes that come from the middle of the car behind the engine out to the top of the shock tower housings.

Your only challenge is getting under the middle section under the windshield and behind the engine as this requires you to take out the pollen filters and the plastic housings that hold them. It is really quite easy, but looks like a bigger pain in the head than it is. Just open the filter housings and take out all the nuts and bolts holding them in.

Don't skip the central ones. More complicated, but in my car, these too were loose.

Good luck. For what its worth, your description is exactly what I was experiencing.

If this is your problem, then it only costs 15 minutes under the hood to take things apart enough to tighten all four bolts... and the cost of the torx socket.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/pic...ictureid=31224
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/pic...ictureid=31223

I have a bit of noise when I go over bumps and turn at low speeds. Do you know the torque the nuts are supposed to be tightened to?
Thank you!

Indus 07-24-2013 12:44 PM

Tightened them yesterday and the noises are gone!!


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