Bmw 525I does not start
Please help I have a 525I E34 Auto. The car was running fine untill yesterday. I went to the shop and after coming back got into the car and started it like normal. It fired up straight away like always and then after a few seconds it just died I tried starting it but to no avail. It cranks over but will not start. I had it towed back home and checked the Fuse no23 it is fine the relay in the e-box also seems fine as i did swop it out and stil nothing. I can not hear the petrol pump buzzing as it usually would do. I checked the plug at the back going into the pump and found there is no power goming to the pump. There is petrol in the car. Can I maybe give direct power to the pump from the battery to check. The problem is I dont know which pins is for positive and which is ground. There are 5 wires going to the 5 pins. Please help ??
A. You have a very typical problem for our car, so don't panic. Please read the sticky threads at the top of this list, especially the one marked maintenance.
B. Please download the E34 bentley manual at http://www.mediafire.com/?ijviizbkk26be it is a great resource for the DIYer when it comes to the car.
All that you require will be in the above along with detailed instructions on how to implement, check etc.
You could also search for no-start issues threads. There are many over here.
In short, if you intend to keep the car and not spend money, time and mental stress on these problems, and you're not a mechanically inclined person who is also ok with troubleshooting and solving common no-start problems as they occur and prefer not to test your luck, you'll need to change the fuel pump, the fuel pump's relay and the crankshaft position sensor, more or less immediately (you might as well take advantage of the current downtime to do all of the above). All of these parts lead to common no-start issues, and will cause your E34 to die suddenly without forewarning anywhere. There's a 90% chance that one of these is responsible for your current problem.
Only purchase OEM parts, which will run you around $350 total at the most, and you'll need approximately 45-75 minutes of labour time to do them all. Only restrain yourself if you have reliable evidence that all of these have not been done in the past 4 years.
Don't worry. Its a very good car. We know about all of its capriciousness. No big deal.... :)
I will do and thank you. I have been driving my 525i for about 8 years now and have had to do some repairs already. I am a boffin at replacing the water pump as mine has gone about 3 times already and what took me the whole day to fix the fist time now only takes about an hour. This no start problem however is a new problem for me .
Secondly, you'll need to replace the water pump (use the composite metal impeller version, $50-60 at O reilly's online ) and the thermostat. For good measure, purchase a new bleed screw and a new rad cap (keep the old ones as spares). Double check that your auxiliary fan runs at both speeds, and ensure that your coolant temp /aux fan sensor is working correctly. All of these constitute the common overheating issues that occur for our E34s. That being said, overheating is not all that common.
I've recently realised that non-silicate HG in a bottle products such as steel seal and duraseal would be useful methods to suppress HG problems. All old cars and not just the E34, could succumb to HG failure due to its sheer age and mileage. The products concerned are not cheap at $100 for 6 cylinder cars, so you might want to think about it abit. For more details, please see :
As to no start problems, these are the UNcommon ones :
1. Clogged fuel filter.
2. Bad DME.
3. Bad fusible link (located next to the battery).
4. Bad battery.
5. Failed EWS system.
#3 and #4 do not apply to you as your car is still cranking away. #5 does not apply as your ride did not come equipped with EWS in 1991.
Please download the manual, read through the sticky thread, and check out a few of the no start issues (you can even pm the original posters (op) directly for advice) and proceed from there. Your research time could take the better part of one day, but it is time well spent as you'll learn many things that will be useful to your baby for the long term, I'm sure.
Please keep us updated on your progress.
As to this situation per se, you could check the crank sensor's ohm settings with a digital multimeter to see if they are within specs. They should be within 500 ohms or so. The Bentley manual, if it describes the ohm figures as 1000+, is wrong....reduce it by exactly 50% and see if you've got it right.
THe bentley manual will also indicate the correct pins on your fuel pump connector for you to test for current. Also test the corresponding metal prongs on the fp itself for continuity. If you have no continuity, you've got a dead pump. And even if you have a good pump, please have it replaced, it will die pretty anytime now *as I'm sure you'll agree after scanning the numerous no-start threads in the archives).
|All times are GMT -7. The time now is 12:32 AM.|
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2015, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
© 2001-2015 performanceIX, Inc. All Rights Reserved .: guidelines .:. privacy .:. terms