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-   -   m60 95 530i not runnilg on all cylinders (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=656775)

cleathersjr 11-07-2012 03:21 PM

m60 95 530i not runnilg on all cylinders
 
I have a 95 530i with the m 60 v8 and it seems to intermitantly stop running on the 4 cylinders on driver side. I have swapped 3 sets of fuel injectors switched the coils from side to side to see which ones were bad but it stays on driver side. trying to drive it will suddenly go to full power like a switch has been thrown. and it will run fine for days-weeks then suddenly i will feel like a kind of skip under acceleration between gear changes and ride a bit and start loosing power. Please any help would be great wife is getting on my nerves "you had to have a bmw":mad:

Josh429er 11-07-2012 04:40 PM

Now from what I've read the V engine's banks operate almost as seperat engines. 7 series I waw looking into had this issue. It was diagnosed as a throttle motor, and EML computer. Throttle motor would be my first move.

BMWFatherFigure 11-07-2012 05:16 PM

The fact it comes and goes means it could be a bad electrical connection or water in one of the electronic 'boxes' under the bonnet.

cleathersjr 11-07-2012 06:00 PM

no my car has a cable operated single throttle body

robertobaggio20 11-07-2012 06:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cleathersjr (Post 7182090)
. Please any help would be great wife is getting on my nerves "you had to have a bmw":mad:

I have some unconventional advice for you.

1. Tell your missus that you bought the BMW to impress her. Say this with hesitation, but with a straight face, as if you're embarrassed to admit to something that sounds so teenage and silly. Regardless of how she reacts, she will be inwardly impressed. There are benefits to that.

2. If you really have some major talents here, do this while in bed, as if you're talking while you're asleep. Make sure its loud enough to wake her but not loud enough to make her think that you're making this up.

3. Buy her flowers.

4. #1 and #3 can only be used once every year per subject for it to be effective. You can't afford more incidents. Do preventive maintenance now ! Replace the fuel pump, its o ring, the fp relay, and the crankshaft position sensor. Replace the water pump (with a composite impeller version) and the thermostat. Get a new bleed screw and rad cap...$15 for both together.


Please download the bentley manual (google) and please read the maintenance stickies at the top of the forums for more thorough information.

rgds,
Roberto

robertobaggio20 11-07-2012 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cleathersjr (Post 7182090)
I have a 95 530i with the m 60 v8 and it seems to intermitantly stop running on the 4 cylinders on driver side. I have swapped 3 sets of fuel injectors switched the coils from side to side to see which ones were bad but it stays on driver side. trying to drive it will suddenly go to full power like a switch has been thrown. and it will run fine for days-weeks then suddenly i will feel like a kind of skip under acceleration between gear changes and ride a bit and start loosing power. Please any help would be great wife is getting on my nerves "you had to have a bmw":mad:

It sounds like a misfire situation but its complicated as it does not happen often. Misfires in any case are usually caused by bad ignition coils/distributor coils or bad spark plugs. If you've never changed your plugs I would start with that as new plugs are cheap, they are easy to replace and new plugs to improve your cars performance slightly when compared to very old ones.

Please look at the spark plug wells to confirm that you have no oil gathering in them. If there's oil, its a valve cover leak. You don't need to change both gaskets though if the other side does not leak, but you should check the unchanged side once every 6 months.

There is another possibility....rather obscure but it has happened before. Your ignition coil wires' insulation is cracked and moisture/condensation is getting onto it, causing bad performance. This causes bad starting on cold days especially. Drive the car around, make sure it performs normally. Then stop it, give it 20 minutes to cool off, then hose down the entire engine bay with water. Do not dry it up, give it a further 5 minutes, then start up the engine and take your car for another drive. If you observe the same symptoms again, then that's very likely the culprit in this case.

Please do the stomp test (check on youtube) and see if you have any relevant error codes. Actually, this should have been my first suggestion.


rgds,
Roberto

1995i540 11-07-2012 08:34 PM

Check your fuel delivery under load and inspect harmonic balancer. If your engine was opened prior to this make sure timing is correct.

Josh429er 11-07-2012 11:33 PM

I don't see how timing or harmonic balancer would cause a bank to shut down intermittently, can you explain?

_Ethrty-Andy_ 11-07-2012 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Josh429er (Post 7182245)
Now from what I've read the V engine's banks operate almost as seperat engines.

No thats just the BMW M70 V12. I believe when the M73 came along for the E38 they went back to the more conventional single ECU, but i havent really researched the M73 much

snowsled7 11-08-2012 06:16 AM

Check for codes, that should be first.

I might also inspect the wiring on the drivers side, coils and injectors.

Losing all four cylinders would make the car run incredibly rough and it would have no power. Losing one or two cylinders would give a substantial power loss but it would probably be fairly smooth still.

Do you encounter exhaust smell when it happens? Possibly indicating no spark but fuel still?

We need to figure out which system is causing the power loss first, fuel or ignition. Hopefully the OBD has a clue to start with.

1995i540 11-08-2012 09:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Josh429er (Post 7182959)
I don't see how timing or harmonic balancer would cause a bank to shut down intermittently, can you explain?

If timing is off by one tooth you will get intermediate misfires.

Disregard harmonic balancer I was thinking about something else.

Josh429er 11-08-2012 07:55 PM

Idk about intermittent, I think it would just be crappy all the time, and are the banks really timed independently?

1995i540 11-08-2012 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Josh429er (Post 7184695)
Idk about intermittent, I think it would just be crappy all the time, and are the banks really timed independently?

It would be on and off and CEL will be randomly thrown once a while.

manuelwindows 11-09-2012 12:35 PM

I had a hesitation and loss of power recently and it was a very small leak in the valve cover gasket that had allowed a small amount of oil to pool up in the holes where the spark plugs were closest to the windshield (because the engine is tilted at a slight angle leaning backwards, which is normal) If this is the case, you should be able to notice if when you take off the valve cover gasket on the driver's side and remove the spark plugs, you will notice some oil pooled up. Not much but enough to do what you are describing and throw off performance of spark plugs.

Like Roberto mentioned, at about $3 a piece for the OEM Bosch copper-plated spark plugs, it's the lowest-hanging fruit as far as time and expense, if it does happen to fix the problem. If it is a small amount of oil, I wouldn't worry too much about replacing the valve cover gasket because the oil you are seeing pooled up in there (if there is any) is what has accumulated over tens of thousands of driving miles. Unless it's a lot or happens again right away and then you probably need to replace the VCG.

And also I mention this because none of the electronic or DEM diagnostics done by the dealership picked up the actual source of the problem.

1995i540 11-09-2012 05:39 PM

$3 * 8 adds up, when my VCG was leaking there was oil on plugs but did not cause any hesitation since it fired just fine. If anything i would carb clean those plugs and housing and run it instead of just buying parts.


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