Passenger door lock won't work
Yesterday I started having this problem with my 07' 328. I noticed that the passenger door didn't lock. I checked the fuses, and in the process of removing them and putting them back in, all the other doors stopped working, including the interior handles. I thought the handles were manual... I guess not. None of the fuses were bad, but i had to reseat them a couple times to get the doors to start working again. Still, the passenger door lock does not work. However, if I put my ear to the door, the door makes a locking and unlocking sound when I press the button on the remote. If it was the actuator, wouldn't it just not make a sound? and if it was somehow disconnected from the locking mechanism, why would the interior handle work?
To compound my frustration, my SES light went on and I get a battery warning light when I leave the sound/lights etc on without the engine running. I took it to autozone and they pulled codes P1554/1553... which may or may not mean anything from reading online. MOst people say Vanos solenoid online, which is totally unrelated to the locking issue, but autozones computers come up with electrical issues relating to a battery sensor... could a low charged batter cause electrical issues that could blow the actuator? Even if that's the case, why does it sound like its working!? :mad:
I would not like to take this to the dealer. I am still under my 100k warranty, but last time I took it there, they charged me $550 to replace a $79 part to get my rear window working again.
I just did some testing. If I give it a little help locking by putting some pressure on plunger (?), it locks. I notced that the rear door plungers (?) have a very sharp movement and make a lot of noise. You push on them and there is a point where it just shoots down. The passenger door is a much more smooth motion and makes little noise. I checked the drivers door and it is similar to the rear doors.
Couple of ideas:
- My '06 had a problem with door locks not too long after buying in '09 - turned out to be a tech bulletin issue that required installing a 20 amp vice 15 amp fuse for the locks. I've never had another issue with locks since.
- If you're on the original battery, it's probably about to go (mine died at about the 4.5 year mark). If you're so inclined, you could replace both of these yourself since you're not crazy about taking it to your dealer. Both are very easy DIYs. Just search this forum for the battery replacement steps - there's a step involving "initializing" your battery so your car knows you've put a new one in.
Both cheap and easy fixes...and personally I'd replace the battery if it's the original even if it isn't part of the problem right now. Waiting until it gives up could leave you stranded at an inconvenient time/location.
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