Advice on how to resurrect my 635
Some time a go, I took my '83 Euro 635 in for it's annual safety inspection. It failed for tires and the cat. As it would be, I got tied up in other things and before I knew it five years had passed. It is still sitting in the garage under a car cover and now I'd like to get it back on the road. I know I can't just dump new gas in it and expect it to run properly. Can anyone give me advice on an action plan of what I need to do short of delivering it to the local BMW repair shop and writing them a big check? A little more information. I didn't put Stabil in the tank (I didn't think it would be sitting that long) and it now needs a battery. No surpise there, I guess. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.
Hey there!! Here is a good check list to run through before attempting to start her for the first time.
The object of a stale start up is to give the engine the fighting chance to start with the first crank so that it doesnt just crank and crank.... So, I would advise the following steps in order.
1) Go into trunk, pull the small round cover off the fuel pump, and literally smell the gas, AND look into the tank with a flash light and just inspect inside of the fuel tank!! If there are no particles, rust, or a VERY strong foul smell, you can continue onto the next step!!
2) Change the fuel filter before you attempt to drain the fuel tank if needed... If you dont need to drain the fuel tank, then install a new fuel filter as the next step.
3) Check ALL Fluids, Oil, ATF, brake, Coolant especially coolant and Engine oil... Make sure there are no leaks or cracked hoses, belts etc.
4) Perform an OIL SERVICE!!!..... At this point all of the motor oil has settled in the pan, and you would be able to "flush" the engine really well... take off the oil filter first, then drain the oil, and then take some SAE 20 / 50 and poor a couple quarts into the engine WITHOUT the drain plug so that the fresh new oil will drain down through the block and push out any funky deposits.. Button everything back up and then fill your engine with 20 / 50 SAE. to the proper level.
5) Put in New battery, check all fuses.
6) I would install BRAND NEW SPARK PLUGS... They are cheap and easy and will allow a fresh precise spark when trying to start the engine.
7) Inspect the air filter and change if needed....
8) when all the above is done, check fuel level in tank and then fill with FRESH 91 OCTANE fuel.... attempt to rock the car side to side and up and down to get the Fresh fuel to mix with what is in the tank already.
9) turn the ignition to the ON position but do not start, and listen for the Pre pump and fuel pump and make sure they are humming away, as this will prep the fuel lines for initial start... Also listen and make sure the Cold start Valve is making noise as well.
10) If all things pass, push the car OUTSIDE after you do these things and then attempt your first start...... Turn the motor over, don't be afraid to crank a couple times, but it should take NO MORE than a few cranks to turn the engine over...
If you follow these instructions you will have a perfect start up..... Once running, let it sit for a few mins to get warm...... Put your FOOT on the Brake peddle and SELECT each gear if Automatic Transmission...... Hold the brake, shift from P - R- N- D- 3 - 2 - 1, and then back to park again... Dont want to put stress on the auto transmission by just putting it into drive and taking off!!
While the engine is running and up to temp, inspect ALL FLUID LEVELS again before you drive, Especially Coolant and Transmission fluid.... Top off if needed.
If all that passes, well hop in, put it in drive and then take it on a little 25MPH drive in your neighborhood, testing the brakes, steering, listening for noises feeling the car idle etc... If all that passes, then I would take it out for an average cruise NO FREEWAY speeds... After you drive it for 25 - 30 mins.... and everything is up to normal temp, well I would start and stop it a couple times, and THEN take it home and drain the motor oil, and then fill it back up with Fresh 20 /50, BEFORE I decided to take it on the freeway!!!
After the second oil service, well then take it on the freeway and take it easy testing and listening and feeling... And if no problems come up, I would test the "Kick Down" feature... Basically putting the peddle to the floor, and blow out the exhaust system, and get a lot of fuel circulating through the entire system.
That should about do it... I know it sounds like a LOT but, I do not like to risk things and its no too expensive to do the above things mentioned!! It is worth doing right!
I would drain the fuel and replace with fresh fuel. I doubt anything 5 years old will be any good.
Also check all rubber hoses, lines, especially fuel lines for cracks. Replace anything cracked or dried out. If you're draining the tank, now's the time to replace the fuel lines. If they're 20 years old they're well past due.
Also check the brake hoses, and make sure the brakes aren't frozen. Again I'd flush the old fluid, it's overdue.
Personally I'd also crank the engine by hand to make sure it's not frozen. If you met resistance try some oil in the cylinders.
A fresh battery, fresh gas and plugs will go a long way towards a successful first start.
He had mentioned that the car has been in the garage under a cover.... Well protected from the elements... Primary fuel lines are METAL and do NOT need to be replaced that would be silly....Not to mention the fuel rail on top of the intake manifold is Metal except for 2 small rubber bits, and major hose at the tank, fuel filter, and pump.... But those are temperature rated to go sub zero, doubtful that such conditions would be experienced in a garage well protected! 5 years in a garage, trust me the fuel lines will be fine!! Only time you should start worrying about rubber is when it experiences Extreme Heat, or Cold..... Yet again, was stored in a garage and I have had old barn find Porches come into our shop that have been sitting in the elements for 15 years and the fuel lines were still able to allow a start up!
Brakes will be fine as well... If they are seized, you would notice that when you pushed it out of the garage.... visual inspection should do fine IMHO and unless he has a lift and a pressure driven brake bleeder, that would be a bit much, not to mention entering air into the system I would worry about even more than leaving them as is.
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