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-   -   P1624 CEL Code (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=660422)

ScottyWM 11-26-2012 07:51 AM

P1624 CEL Code
 
Troubleshooting my daughter's 2000 328i with about 130k miles. I only see the car a few times a year so I don't have a lot of information on it. She has just started getting the CEL, had the codes read and got P1624. This would seem to indicate a bad (stuck open) t-stat from the searching I've done. She says the temp needle does not go up to 12 o'clock like normal, stays down in the cold area unless she is stopped in traffic. Seems like a quick, easy fix to do.

But, here's the first question - the car sometimes stalls when cold (at startup), and the revs will sometimes undulate 100-200 rpm when cold at startup too. (The undulating might lead to the stalling, she wasn't sure.) Could this be still the t-stat?

Second, I've replaced probably 30 t-stats in my life - I've never heard of replacing the the t-stat housing with the t-stat. But looking at RealOEM and Bavarian Auto it appears that the t-stat is integrated into the housing. Is that right? Why? Just so they can charge $75 bucks instead of $5 bucks?

She's had the car about a year, previous maintenance was impeccable and done at BMW dealer. Whole cooling system was redone not too many miles ago so should be in good shape other than the t-stat. Mainly curious if the undulating could be because it is running cold or if it might be the ICV or something else.

Sean330xi 11-27-2012 08:30 AM

Just wanted to address your issue with the thermostat. I just had to do this myself on my 02' 330 and there are a couple of things I found that I can tell you. First, you do have to replace the housing with the thermostat. No way around that....Second, you will have to remove the radiator fan to access all the screws holding the thermostat in place. I started in on the repair not realizing that I needed a special tool to hold the fan clutch in place or it just spins and makes it really hard to loosen up. The tool needed is a #1703 fan clutch tool that BMW makes. I hope this helps you out a bit. It took me about an hour and half to do the repair but if you have experience already it will probably take you even less time.

ScottyWM 11-27-2012 09:54 AM

Thanks, did you have the 1624 code too? Did you see anything funny with the idle when it was running cold?

In the past I've been able to remove the fan with just a big wrench and whack it with a big hammer (LH thread).

1972ford 11-27-2012 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScottyWM (Post 7216912)

In the past I've been able to remove the fan with just a big wrench and whack it with a big hammer (LH thread).

Presumably her car is an automatic? Otherwise you won't have to do that whole step...

Sean330xi 11-27-2012 10:32 AM

Strangely enough I didn't have that code.....I just knew the thermostat was stuck open. I was having some rough idle issues but mine were related to a bad PCV valve.

ScottyWM 11-27-2012 10:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1972ford (Post 7216996)
Presumably her car is an automatic? Otherwise you won't have to do that whole step...

That is correct :thumbup:

ScottyWM 12-28-2012 10:42 AM

So just finished replacing the thermostat and belts. No problem there. Engine warms up nicely and code is gone. But this didn't fix the surging at cold idle problem. And, we just noticed that sometimes (only twice actually), that when it does the surging, the temp needle will peg out Hot - even though the car was just started and we know it's not hot at all. Turn key off, back to on, and temp needle will be normal. I was hoping changing the thermostat would fix this, but it didn't...

Sounds like it must be a sensor? Any ideas on this?

Surging RPM:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_NZ0NQQftMY

Then after turning the car off restarting:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-B...-07-41_937.jpg

smolck 12-28-2012 05:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScottyWM (Post 7275547)

Sounds like it must be a sensor? Any ideas on this?

The M52tu motor found in your vehicle is known to have poor cold idle qualities when the VANOS seals are shot. Had the same problem on my old 323 and numerous customer cars. Does the car do that when it is warmed up or only when cold?

If only when cold then there is a 95% chance it is the VANOS seals. 60 bucks and easy to rebuild. Somewhere on my YouTube page I think there is a video of my 323 both pre and post VANOS rebuild

Sent from my One X using Bimmer App

ScottyWM 12-29-2012 12:55 PM

Thanks, and I've bookmarked your youtube page! I saw the post-repair video, but not the pre-repair. Yes, it only does it when cold. Now to search for the DIY how-to on this repair.

smolck 12-29-2012 10:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ScottyWM (Post 7277724)
Thanks, and I've bookmarked your youtube page! I saw the post-repair video, but not the pre-repair. Yes, it only does it when cold. Now to search for the DIY how-to on this repair.

Just go to beisansystems.com and look at the dual VANOS repair procedure. Never a better DIY has been written

Sent from my One X using Bimmer App

ScottyWM 12-30-2012 08:35 AM

Thanks, great information! And it looks like the guy who started that company to sell the kits is right here where I live in Raleigh. Seems like a simple enough job (although time intensive), trouble is that the car is my daughter's and is only here at my place a couple times a year (away at college). If she can't live with it the way it is until the next visit, she'll have to pay big $$ to get it fixed.


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