E65 mystery faults, please help.
Hello, first time poster long time lurker.
I'll get to the point, recently I traded in my 2004 E46 318Ci M sport convertible to take my first leap into 7 series ownership. I couldn't be happier and thought I had found a bargain in a 2005 740i Sport with 61k on the clocks. It has a full service history but not all BMW.
I bought it in a private sale but as I drove it home i got stuck in rush hour traffic and noticed it puffing blue smoke badly. Trying to get my 3 series back I was told it was sold within 2 days and they would not contribute anything to repairs.
Took it to my local BMW dealer for a health check and was told that it was indeed burning oil somewhere and they would start with replacing filters on top of the engine that could wear and split. They wanted £423 for this job with the parts at £24 as a kit.
I decided to take it to an independent for a second opinion and replaced the 'breather' which stopped the heavy smoke in traffic down to a small puff when resting at idle for a couple of minutes. Immediately after the work was done on the drive home the Engine Management light came on; after being taken back the fault code was "29E7 Fuel Mixture Adaptation, idling, per time unit" SAE diagnostic Trouble code P2187 but doesn't flag it up as a fault on the computer inside the car.
Shortly after this though the computer flagged up the Oil Level at Minimum warning sign despite me topping it to full when I got it; this meant that it had consumed 1litre in approx 1500 miles of driving.
Researching these forums I took the next steps as a potential air flow issue and smoke tested it at a Second independent garage who carried out the original BMW recommendation of filters on the engine and a gasket seal somewhere in the exhaust with genuine parts.
However, after 40 miles of driving the EML keeps returning; I am currently monitoring oil consumption again but noticed that on my motorway runs in which I could get above book values in my 3 I am nowhere near in the 7 despite them being nearly the same age; Book says 34.4 and comp says 29 on a motorway run.
My question therefore is this. Does this sound like a genuine fuel mixture fault or could it be leaning towards the other end of the scale which I have read on this forum as a potential Valve Stem Seal replacement job? Has anyone heard of this happening before? And can anyone help?
I'll be honest here and say that I am actually only 22 and had heard so many praises over the 7 and the N62 engine I have invested in that I was so looking forward to owning one. I can't express how upset I am that this beautiful machine has been so mistreated to the point that I don't know what to do. I have a very small knowledge of practical mechanics so am having to depend on garages to do the work.
Congratulations on the new purchase, I too upgraded to an E65 from an E46, what a difference!
Sorry to hear your having these issues, Starting with your codes, The DME is reporting that its running too lean at idle, this would most likely be caused by a vacuum leak, a split CCV for example, these are easy to change, take ten minutes! how the garage can justify £423 is anyones guess! I would also check the MAF, this could be giving the DME duff airflow reading meaning its not putting enough fuel in.
High crankcase pressure (little vacuum inside the engine crank case) caused by a vacuum leak causes large amounts of oil to condensate in the breather hoses and inlet manifold, this is a major contributor to oil consumption. Common causes are leaking valve cover gaskets, leaking timing cover gaskets, dipstick o-rings, split breather hoses from inlet manifold to CCV's and worst case severely worn piston rings. The latter I wouldn't expect after just 60k miles and I have yet to hear of any piston ring trouble on an N62.
Another problem that is becoming more and more common as these cars age is the valve stem seals, many people blame the long oil service intervals indicated by the CBS system, personally I agree, the oil as it ages and becomes contaminated attacks the rubber components in the engine, this mixed with the temperature cycling causes the rubber to go hard and eventually the seal loses the ability to stop oil leaking past into the combustion chamber or exhaust ports.
My car was serviced regularly at dealerships but there appears to be a window of almost 30K miles where there is no record of an oil change! needless to say im now at 105K miles and the car is smoking after idle and you can smell burning oil from the exhaust once up to temp. I am pulling my heads in the new year to address this and a number of other issues. Luckily i am able to do this work myself so its only parts and the inconvenience of the car being off the road that the trouble!
I will say that you either have to be a keen and competent DIY'er to own these cars or have some seriously deep pockets! These cars need constant attention, there is always something ready to go wrong! with the missus and two children im kept pretty busy! I love the car though, and the V8 is great, its so smooth and comfortable to drive, Im nagged weekly to get rid of it though! but its what I want, and if I had the choice id get the newer F01/02, although my budget does not stretch that far!
Anyway I hope I have helped, there are some things to check, which im sure you can do yourself. To be honest mine burns 1L of oil every 3000 miles or so, although it really does depend on how much time you sit in traffic!
The CCVs have been replaced the other week and I took it on one of the longer drives for any difference in performance or fuel consumption with both remaining the same. The interesting thing is that it seems perfectly normal at all times; no drop in power and nothing ridiculous fuel wise just a bit worse then I would have expected extra urban which makes me wonder if it could be fuel related; though I would have thought it be running too rich as opposed to too lean.
If you could keep me updated on what happens behind your heads as that is similar to what mine is doing; it doesn't smell too bad but the next options do point toward valve stem seal work but I wonder if because the oil may have been building up for a while before I took to trying to sort it whether or not it will be burning more due a carbon build up in the engine. There is no visible sign of a leak so it makes sense to assume that this oil is indeed being burnt somewhere along the combustion line but thanks for your input i'll look into other air flow issues first; i'd just really like to get the light off mostly!
Sorry, thats correct, you could still have oil residue in the inlet manifold and breather pipes, see if it clears up, I think the oil separators within the cylinder head cover can get clogged up making the problem worse.
Are you saying you get 29mpg on the motorway? thats pretty good, I drive to work, its mainly A roads and a little town driving, I average around 20mpg. I will let you know how it goes.
Hi guy's, so here's the deal. These engines run hot (105C). This is normal. The valve seals are not made of "viton" which take extreme heat (shame on BMW). In the UK it is easy to get replacement viton seals. It is a time consuming job, but very rewarding when complete. You do not need to remove the cyl. heads, just pressurize the cyl. with compressed air so the valves will not fall into the cyl. when you remove the valve spring seat retainers . It cost me $300 can.$ which included the cam cover gasket set which always leak. If you have a long distance phone plan and would like to contact me, I'll be more than happy to add more useful information. Just a reminder that I am 5 hours behind you in the UK. PM me. Ross.
Yep, I'm guessing if somebody makes a lower temp tstat these engines would last forever. 95C would be great and it would not set up CEL.
May be we should contact some aftermarket company so they would design normal tstat.
Does anybody think here that they made V8 run 105C so it would not last long??
I couldn't possibly say that BMW engineered a part to fail eventually, considering they should know that not everyone is going to get it repaired by an authorised dealer, that said it does look like i'm not the only one that may indeed be looking at a valve stem seal replacement I was curious if I'd gone through every option first; particularly considering the EML only came on after the breather was initially replaced and wondered if that had anything to do with it.
Interesting new point. I took it to a garage to have the codes reset; flagged up 29E7 and 29E8 but only with a 1 time occurrence. Reset them and expected to drive the standard 40 miles before anything came back; at around 30 I found myself on a single track road and had to stop for a lorry. I was pretty quick in stopping and going up on the shifter straight into reverse but as soon as I did the EML illuminated again. This is either a massive coincidence or my 7 series creates an idle fault when quickly changed from D to R pretty much bypassing N. I wouldn't have thought this could trick the engine into thinking it had a bizarre idle but does this add up to any degree?
What does anyone think?
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