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awright1412 11-30-2012 08:11 PM

2000 740i Timing code over advance on bank 1 and 2.PLEASE HELP!!!!
Please HELP!!!!!!!! I have the timing code still after changing the chains, tensoiners and guide rails, I have tried to time it 3 times, I used the timing tools for tdc and cam lock , continuity test ,but I'm still getting the codes. I followed the TIS instructions. Can't figure it out. PLEASE HELP!! If you have done this before and can give me a few tips as to what it is I am Missing. The car starts but has a irratic idle, bounces below 1000 and 2000 rpm until it cuts out. I'm pulling a p0011 and a p0021. timing over on both banks...PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks in advance

joyism5 12-01-2012 07:48 AM

Have you used the tools for the camshaft position sensors too? To align that plate at the end of the camshaft.
Have you used the tool for the main tensioner?
Did you removed the VANOS units when you changed the chains?
Do you have any other codes? For Vanos solenoids?

awright1412 12-01-2012 09:38 AM

joyism5, I used the tool to align the camshaft wheel sensors, and the chain tensioner tool with slight tension on the guide. Here is a breif rundown of what I did: put the flywheel pin in for TDC, (after removing the vanos cover and valve cover) mount the chain tenioner tool, then camshaft lock down tools, loosen the main vanos bolts and use tool to set for continuity test. Use the camshaft alignment tools to align the camshaft sensors. On my second go, I took the vanos units off and replaced the seals, the chains, tensioners, guide rails and cps sensors. I do have a couple of questions, should the chain tensioner tool be tightend to a certain amount of torque? and I read that the main vanos bolt should be torqued to about 110nm. I only found this info a few days ago, I believe i torqued them to about 60nm for fear of snapping them, unless I am missing something that the only thing I am aware of, I know I am missing something, what do you think? There are no other codes only the 2. Thanks

joyism5 12-01-2012 08:53 PM


Originally Posted by awright1412 (Post 7225024)
should the chain tensioner tool be tightend to a certain amount of torque?

Tighten only with your fingers. That's to eliminate the slap in the chain when you are setting the timing.
When I did the work on my engine the only special tool, was the camshaft locking tool, and that one I made it in the garage using a template from the forum. I removed the engine, had it on stand for few weeks, and I had time to study a little bit. Made a lot of marks on timing, took pictures and just used my imagination for the timing set-up. The alignment plate can be checked without removing any cover. You just need to set the engine at TDC, insert the flywheel locking tool and look at the upper timing covers. There are 2 screw on each upper timing cover that are not used to hold anything. You need a torx bit to remove them. They are close to each camshaft sensor. After removing these 2 screws find a longer screw that it will fit in that hole without wiggling. No need to be tighten in. Just slide in. When you insert the screw, it should go through the hole of the camshaft position sensor plate, and should touch the camshaft. With another words the hole from the plate should perfectly align with the hole from where you took the screws. These were my reference for my plate alignment. I checked them before, and after disassembly, and I had no codes for timing. I am pretty sure that this is the purpose for the holes.
I think your timing is not set up correctly.

Bigrobsbmw 01-02-2013 05:58 PM

Did you ever get your timing problems solved. I recently replaced mine with the same results, but I have the solution.

BMW 3-SERIES 01-03-2013 10:54 PM

I think I know your problem!

I went through similar things except I was getting P1519 and P1522 which means those are VANOS faults. P1519 and 1522 are Intake Cam VANOS faults for improper timed VANOS which means they wont kick in. Otherwise, for those who suffer P0011 and 21, those are timing issues. You need to rent or use the VANOS tools. And time like this:

There are two-strokes for engine. When changing timing chains, most people do not set their engines to TDC (Top Dead Center) which means Piston 1 on Bank 1 (Passenger Side - Closest to front) is not TDC (Piston all the way to the top) so best why to check this is remove the spark plug on Bank 1 - Cylinder 1, stick the dip stick in and turn to motor by hand using 29mm I think. As you turn the crank, the dip stick moves in and out. Make sure the dip stick is all the way out. This means its at TDC. At this point, get underneath the car, set the flywheel pin. Now proceed to the cams locks. Remove the VANOS Solenoids to relieve pressure (optional) turn Cams until they show A and E facing up. Than lock them down. At this point your are correctly timed and set. You can also check your pulley marking as it has OT stamped in. You must match the OT to the mark on the lower timing cover. I think this is the most common problem, people who do this job did not have their engine set to the right stroke/TDC.

To Summarize:
  1. Engine must be set to TDC (Top Dead Center)
  2. Flywheel Pin must be set after setting engine to TDC
  3. Cams must be Locked Down when they show A - E facing up!

Crazy Uzbek 01-01-2016 11:10 PM

Well this is for next people who is seeking for help, mostly in my experience this code comes when you take the vanos unit and when you installing it back you have a air pocket in the system, so you have to make sure to turn the vanos to the left and hold it and than tight the bolt to a 110 nm.

Pj740il 01-02-2016 11:42 PM

Crazy Uzbek has to be the best name on this forum.

ebida3 01-12-2016 06:37 PM

I'm sure you know this but the crank has to OT marks one says +5- OT or something that effect. I has to be on the a OT only mark or the one on the left or you'll be overadvanced.

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Crazy Uzbek 01-13-2016 05:44 AM

That is why you put a pin on the back so you dont miss OT mark.

FABOCH 01-14-2016 09:36 AM

My guess if you are truly at TDC, Blocks and continuity test reveals 0 then my question is what are you doing after test reads ZerO??!
Critical part here is when you remove bank 1 blocks you should see Bank 1 Cam rotate back to its normal position. Bank 2 Cam's stays the same after block removal. Another critical step is when you are tightening both inner Cam's at 81 ft lbs and both outer Cam's at 92 ft lbs of torque you are NOT losing timing. If either block on all 4 Cam's lift a 1MM
Your timing is off
Why having a partner help you Counter hold the Cams with 27mm wrench. While you are torquing the cam bolts
Also my trick is to keep the Voltimeter on the whole time
So what if it uses all your 9 bolt batter. Have a back up. Timing is more important.
After torquing the bolts and no can blocks lifted remove the blocks
Now you will see bank 1 Cam rotate back to normal position
Now attach the cam wheels and align with cam wheel alignment tools
Timing will never be off this way

cmarch13 05-18-2017 07:46 AM

FABOCH, the way I read this is to remove the cam locks and the cam returns to about a 5 degree angle. Then set the cam wheel with the cam slightly rotated. Would that be correct? I'm getting P0012 and P1525.

You are one of two that mention allowing the cam to revert back before timing.

u.nanimous 05-18-2017 11:06 AM

Anyone know what happened to FABOCH, haven't seen him around in quite a while.

Sent from the past using the Bimmerfest app on my flip-phone

oldroller 05-18-2017 03:59 PM

Old post, but I reiterate for the benefit of any that read this....

"Now you will see bank 1 Cam rotate back to normal position
Now attach the cam wheels and align with cam wheel alignment tools
Timing will never be off this way"..........!!!


The can wheels (especially Bank One!) have to be installed with the cam locks IN PLACE! When released the spring load will 'advance' the intake cam on bank one...
and if you set your bank one cam wheel to that spec it will be off. Set the cam wheel with the locks in place AND THE Vanos turned full counter clockwise. This is your fully retarded base timing position.

Now to check it after you have locked it all down and removed the cam locks and installed the tensioner, rotate the crankshaft TWO revolutions. Remove the Torx blind plugs on the upper timing chain covers.
and (after checking TDC with the flywheel lock pin) insert a close-fitting drill bit through the holes into the cam rings. The Bank two wheel should be in position, hole very close.

Now, check bank 1, AND TURN THE VANOS AND CAM COUNTER CLOCKWISE until it stops. Adjust the cam wheel if necessary for bank one, so that the drill bit is centered.

I fought with this for a while, until I realized that the main chain drives the Vanos, and the Vanos drives the intake cam. The exhaust cam just rides along with the intake. Any movement away from fully retarded
by the cam will result in incorrect ignition trigger wheel timing.

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