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-   -   How to replace Water pump and thermostat E60 - 535 xi (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=661834)

Julio_Lujambio@ 12-02-2012 07:18 PM

How to replace Water pump and thermostat E60 - 535 xi
 
Hi, recently the radiator fan went crazy and 2 minutes later a yellow temp icon come up and 1 minute later a red temp icon telling overheating come up and I have to stop my car wait for it to cool down and drive by segments to my home. Basically every-time the yellow icon will come up I stopped not letting the red icon to show up.

Long history short. I found out 2 trouble codes with my scanner (2E82 AND 2E83). Note: if you find any combination of the codes below:

FC 2E81 Electric coolant pump, speed deviation, speed outside the tolerance
FC 2E82 Electric coolant pump cutoff, over-current
FC 2E83 Electric coolant pump, power-reduced operation, dry run
FC 2E84 Electric coolant pump, communication
FC 2E85 Electric coolant pump, communication, no voltage at emergency operation input of pump

the bulletin from BMW tells to replace the water pump.

Car millage: 66K.

Below is what I did. BTW, a digital phone camera will help you to remember how to assemble parts back :-)

Expected time to perform for home mechanic: 3-4 hours. Pro: 2 hour max.

Tools: Phillips crew drivers and flat screw drivers, wrenches or sockets from 4 to 16 (you will need 8 - 10 - 17), special torx socket tool for the aluminum screws for the water pump - max torque 10NM.

Parts: 2 gallons of coolant (424), water pump ($420), screws ($8), Thermostat ($110)

Water pump (WP) and thermostat are located in the non-driver side below the engine. Sorry, you will have to remove both to replace the WP.

Procedure:
1- rise your car so you can reach all the lower splash panels/cover in the bottom of the car
2- secure the car so it does not move and disconnect the battery (rear of the car non- driver side).
3- take out front and back splash (around 20+) screws
4- remove lower protector plate ( 6 big bolts). You will need air powered tools or heavy and good wrenches.
5- remove bolt and move hydraulic hose to the left so you can make room.
6- remove hoses from the thermostat
6.1 - start removing the ones that have the secure wire to keep them in place. Take out the wire lock (you can pry it with a small screwdriver) and then pull the connector out of the each one. (you can drain your system at this time :-) ) thus, have a handy container to collect the cooling fluid.
6.2 - remove the 2 bolts that keep the thermostat in place
6.3 - pull the thermostat to the side so you can see and reach the other 2 hoses
6.4 - gently unscrew the clamp that holds the small hose - fluid will drain when you remove the hose- and then pull to the side to remove the hose.
6.5 - gently unscrew the clamp that hold the big hose - fluid again - and with one hand reach the hose from the back of the frame and pull with your other hand the thermostat.
7. now you can reach the top bolt to remove the WP. Remove the 3 bolts.
8. pull the water pump and detach the hose that connect the thermostat - make sure you remember of have a picture of the position of the hose.
9. now you can reach and detach from the WP the hose that connects the WP with the engine - make sure you remember of have a picture of the position of the hose.
10. remove the electrical connector to the WP.
11. Installation procedure is the opposite from 10 to 1.
12. Make car level in garage.
13. Fill fluid to top, close cap, initiate bleed process: key in, then press ignition on (do not press the break) - then accelerator pedal to the floor - 5-10 seconds and you should heard the pump working - and wa-la, pump operated for a minute or less, loosen cap and refill; repeat process until level is OK. note: When the pump operated, I smiled.

good luck!.

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luckydog 12-02-2012 10:20 PM

Great post Way to save the engine cooling periods and detailed COR= Car Owner Repair . :)

HPIA4v2 12-03-2012 06:12 AM

Julio, great write up.

But do you have picture for the special tools? is it torx?

bighead2267 12-03-2012 11:05 AM

that's what i wonder as well

legend700 12-03-2012 12:01 PM

1 Attachment(s)
As to item 13. of the above write-up, I would like to point out that the bleed process is different in the Bentley's manual for the N54 turbo engine. It is an automatic sequence initiated after selecting the lowest fan speed and heat set to max. and holding the accelarator down for about 10 seconds with ignition on. The automatic process runs exactly 12 minutes and shuts off by itself. Also coolant reservoir cap needs to be closed.
Attached PDF lists details.

Julio_Lujambio@ 12-03-2012 12:17 PM

Bolts
 
2 Attachment(s)
Attached are a picture of the necessary torx socket wrench and the water pump bolts.

Julio_Lujambio@ 12-03-2012 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HPIA4v2 (Post 7227956)
Julio, great write up.

But do you have picture for the special tools? is it torx?

see above I posted pictures

MachtSchnell 12-04-2012 04:36 AM

Good write up. I replaced mine Friday. Took me much longer but I have big hands :) getting everything out was the tough part for me. Putting back together was quick. You can drain most fluid out through the petcock valve, I would also suggest a large shallow drain pan as fluids will trickle down other places. I did an oil change while I had her up.

Jparson 07-07-2013 07:18 PM

Special tools for star bolts not needed
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Julio_Lujambio@ (Post 7228597)
Attached are a picture of the necessary torx socket wrench and the water pump bolts.

The regular sockets will work for the star bolts they fit snug and wont slip if u use the right size. I removed my water pump and thermostat with all regular sockets, u will need the small ratchet to get in the tight areas. Don't waist your money!

Kmayer20 11-15-2013 05:44 PM

I'm considering changing my thermostat and water pump too. Did you guys do work at a garage with a lift or is it possible to use a car ramp?

I had 2 hour drive home tonight which is usually a 20 minutes ride because of the red overheat indicator came on every other minute.

Car: 2006 530xi

Where should I buy the thermostat and water pump?

Kevin

MachtSchnell 11-15-2013 06:04 PM

I did mine in the garage with a jack and some stands. I bought parts from the dealer I couldn't be without the car waiting on parts to be delivered. Getting past the hydronic lines for were the most difficult part of the Job. Loosen the brackets that hold them if you don't want to disconnect them and had to drain refill them.

Kmayer20 11-15-2013 07:11 PM

Thanks MachtShnell. I assume you did this work on the 08 535xi?
I have an 06 and my indie mechanic told me BMW made some changes to the 5 series in late 06.

I'm not sure what changes we're made, but he told me you can't just replace the thermostat on early 06 530 XI and that the thermostat and pump are sold together for yhst reason. Originally my mechanic was going to replace the thermostat, but then called to say that's not possible!?

Looks like I need to do some more research.

Thanks for the response, I hope that they are the same or close so i can do the work myself and can Julio's great instructions.

MachtSchnell 11-17-2013 01:14 PM

Sorry replaced it on a 08 535i. no need for AWD in Hotlanta. I am not sure about the 06, but depending on the mileage of the current water pump you might save yourself some time and heart ache by doing them both now. My thermostat went and just replaced it, 3-6 months later my pump went out, woulda coulda shoulda. Hope you have a heated garage, starting to get cold up in CT. I am up there often in Danbury and Shelton and this is not my favorite time of year up there.

cadillacby 10-07-2014 03:34 PM

Hello. I replaced water pump(continental OEM) and thermostat(hamann) on my 535XI and now I'm getting the error code p0128. Error code refer to bad thermostat, so i was thinking to put old thermostat back. I replaced everything because water pump developed a leak on the seam.

banglenot 10-07-2014 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cadillacby (Post 8633242)
Hello. I replaced water pump(continental OEM) and thermostat(hamann) on my 535XI and now I'm getting the error code p0128. Error code refer to bad thermostat, so i was thinking to put old thermostat back. I replaced everything because water pump developed a leak on the seam.

Did you run the electronic bleeding procedure?

cadillacby 10-07-2014 03:53 PM

yes. Do you think it can be the problem? i can try it one more time. i got code 2ef4: Motor Control:
Engine / Motor
Fehler: Map-controlled thermostat, mechanical / Map thermostat cooling, mechanical / Kennfeldthermostat, m
Code: 2EF4

cadillacby 10-07-2014 03:59 PM

Also, after i erase the code its coming back not instantly, but like in 3-5 days. Its happen approx. after 15 minutes of driving the car, not when i start the car right away.

banglenot 10-08-2014 05:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cadillacby (Post 8633300)
Also, after i erase the code its coming back not instantly, but like in 3-5 days. Its happen approx. after 15 minutes of driving the car, not when i start the car right away.

Check to see if the thermostat's electrical connection is fully seated.

DDENT 11-26-2014 08:39 PM

Water Pump Failure
 
2006 525i with 113k miles. Posting to help others in the situation.

Symptoms:
- Driving moderate warning
- Overheat warning: car went up to 132C but never into limp mode
- Loud continuous radiator fan blowing and sometimes cycles fast to slow to fast (usually when the heater is on). Sometimes, the fan blows loud right at start-up, even in 40-degree weather.
- Heater would work when the water pump was working and suddenly gets cold. Then, the car began to overheat.

Took the car to the mechanic, and he said there were no codes. He mentioned a valve cover gasket leak that might've been short-circuiting the electrical wires and giving off false readings. I bought the gasket and replaced it--no more leaks. Then, the car began overheating even faster. I thought the car had electrical problems because the water pump sometimes worked and other times didn't, so I cleaned all the wiring on a warmer day. All of a sudden, the car began to operate fine for a little while (thinking the problems only occurred in the cold weather). The problem came back. Everytime the car reached a high temperature, I would pull over, turn the car off, and run the coolant bleeding cycle. The water pump would turn on, and the engine temperature went down. That method worked for about 2 weeks before the water pump officially died. A few days later, the battery level was very low. I guess running the bleeding procedure and having the radiator fan coming on at full speed killed the battery.

I bought a thermostat (~$70) and water pump ($399) from oembimmerparts and did the replacement. It's a fairly easy job and took 2-3 hours. Everything works fine now. Hopefully, I don't run into anymore problems with that.

churious 01-09-2015 11:35 PM

Great write up. Attempted this today and wow when you have big hands and no lift its a PITA! Got everything off and new pump on now just a couple more hoses to get back on the new tstat and ill be good to go! Ill report back tomorrow. Had the 2E81 and 2E82 codes and the car was starting to get really warm.

Bud B 01-10-2015 01:30 AM

BavAuto Part 1:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o-BpUzAemyQ

BavAuto Part 2:
[URL="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FeYC305quNQ"]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FeYC305quNQ[/URL

In regard to the yellow "Spill Free Funnel" in the Videos (Item 24680-$29.95) the black plastic cap would not screw onto the expansion tank in my 2006 530i E60.
The expansion tank has "Course Threads" and the black plastic cap that comes with the "Spill Free Funnel" has Fine Course threads.
That was a real FUBR and I have sent a email to BavAuto.

I'll update you all when I hear from them.

Bud

churious 01-11-2015 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by churious (Post 8823426)
Great write up. Attempted this today and wow when you have big hands and no lift its a PITA! Got everything off and new pump on now just a couple more hoses to get back on the new tstat and ill be good to go! Ill report back tomorrow. Had the 2E81 and 2E82 codes and the car was starting to get really warm.

Ok. Wrapped up the tstat yesterday AM... had to put on the top smaller hose while the stat was out of position then placed it back in and moved to the rear larger hose that connects to the water pump. Then the other two quick clamp hoses, bolted her in and attached the cable. Shortly after while the coolant was already drained I went ahead and tackled another job by changing the gaskets on the oil filter canister. ;)

Also... just be aware that after a few hours of pre diagnosis for the WP my battery was apparetnly weak... so after sitting for 3 days I actually needed to fully charge and then re pair the battery via diagnostic software. Finally I cleared all codes at the same time and after a couple test drives everything is looking great! :thumbup:

Record Genie 01-11-2015 04:23 PM

Difference between 535i and 535xi, for a 2008 E61
 
Hello all, Long time lurker and owner of multiple BMWs over the years, and first post here!

Looking for help specifically with the 535xi since I am stumped getting to the hose clips, can't even see them! If the xi water pump access was as open and simple as a 535i in the Bavarian Auto video(s) then I'd be all done by now, but I want to be sure I am not missing something here before I go any further..

The water pump on our 2008 535xiT has obviously failed, when doing the purge cycle it makes a "frog like" sound and isn't pumping. The reason why I tried the purge cycle was because the car almost overheated yesterday. I'm glad I was driving and not my wife..

It took three stops to drive for a couple of minutes and then stop to cool down again, I watched the Bavarian Auto videos while I was waiting! I was able to get home without getting the yellow warning again, keeping the temp no more than 100c. It was reading 115c when I first checked it after getting the yellow warning.

So, I have removed the front and middle under trays, have moved the hydraulic lines to one side, have undone the 6 bolts for the heavy plate in the center, have removed the small bolts that hold the thermostat to the water pump, and have removed the torx bolts that secure the water pump itself. There is very little room to move anything around, even with it unbolted, and I am hesitant to undo the two "clip-clamps" I can get to on the thermostat, to drain the system. If I remove those and try and move the hoses aside, will there be enough room to pull the thermostat and/or pump out enough to get to the back hose clips with a flexy screwdriver? It just doesn't seem right! I have the new pump, t-stat, coolant, and pump bolts, but am not sure if I'm missing something, another step to remove something that would improve access?

I am also missing the Bentley repair manual for this car, it was CPO with full maintenance when we got it, so has always been dealer serviced. This is the first problem I'm tackling, although I have worked on an E36 M3 and an E39 M5 before, and have rebuilt engines and all kinds of other stuff on air-cooled Volkswagens. Does the Bentley manual have a detailed procedure for water pump replacement?

Sorry about the long first post, thanks for reading, and hope someone with a 535xi can chime in and give me some pointers!

jeremypcrook 01-14-2015 05:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Record Genie (Post 8826940)
Hello all, Long time lurker and owner of multiple BMWs over the years, and first post here!

Looking for help specifically with the 535xi since I am stumped getting to the hose clips, can't even see them! If the xi water pump access was as open and simple as a 535i in the Bavarian Auto video(s) then I'd be all done by now, but I want to be sure I am not missing something here before I go any further..

The water pump on our 2008 535xiT has obviously failed, when doing the purge cycle it makes a "frog like" sound and isn't pumping. The reason why I tried the purge cycle was because the car almost overheated yesterday. I'm glad I was driving and not my wife..

It took three stops to drive for a couple of minutes and then stop to cool down again, I watched the Bavarian Auto videos while I was waiting! I was able to get home without getting the yellow warning again, keeping the temp no more than 100c. It was reading 115c when I first checked it after getting the yellow warning.

So, I have removed the front and middle under trays, have moved the hydraulic lines to one side, have undone the 6 bolts for the heavy plate in the center, have removed the small bolts that hold the thermostat to the water pump, and have removed the torx bolts that secure the water pump itself. There is very little room to move anything around, even with it unbolted, and I am hesitant to undo the two "clip-clamps" I can get to on the thermostat, to drain the system. If I remove those and try and move the hoses aside, will there be enough room to pull the thermostat and/or pump out enough to get to the back hose clips with a flexy screwdriver? It just doesn't seem right! I have the new pump, t-stat, coolant, and pump bolts, but am not sure if I'm missing something, another step to remove something that would improve access?

I am also missing the Bentley repair manual for this car, it was CPO with full maintenance when we got it, so has always been dealer serviced. This is the first problem I'm tackling, although I have worked on an E36 M3 and an E39 M5 before, and have rebuilt engines and all kinds of other stuff on air-cooled Volkswagens. Does the Bentley manual have a detailed procedure for water pump replacement?

Sorry about the long first post, thanks for reading, and hope someone with a 535xi can chime in and give me some pointers!

I have been looking for a write up on an xi model as well, If you look at the Bav Auto YouTube video, below the video read the comments. There are a few xi owners that are attempting the fix and one completed it and have left comments. I can't recall what exactly they described (worked from the top of engine bay?), but it's a start. We might want to reach out to Bav Auto to see if they have an update or additional xi video?


From Blaine Hoops comments regarding Bav Auto replacement video:

1) I'm in the process of doing a '06 530xi - it's definitely tough - but doable. I have everything out now - I'm taking a long nap before I try to put the new stuff back in (haha - it was exhausting getting the pump out). I had to get the thermostat up and out of the way while the pump was still in - that allowed me to remove (from above) the bolt holding the power steering hose hanger. I was able to remove the hose clamp at the back of the thermostat from below - but I had to reach down from above (I removed some hoses from the overflow tank so I could reach in ) to get that hose off the thermostat. Then - finally - I was able to pull out the thermostat so I could get access to the back side of the pump. I had to cut the hose clamp from the pump to manifold - the clamp was clocked in a position it was impossible to get to. And then I was able to get the pump out at last (with the U-shaped hose that goes to thermostat still attached to pump).

2) Thanks for this video ... HOWEVER ... I have a '06 530xi wagon and there is very little that is similar in the process. I had to remove a few hoses from above that just could not be gotten to from below (and it was very tight - a real puzzle to do). The 530xi has virtually no access from below other than getting your hands/tools in from between the pump and the radiator). You cannot remove the power steering hose hanger until you have removed the thermostat (and I had to remove the thermostat before I could remove the pump - opposite of your video). I found I had to cut one of the hose clamps on the pump that was clocked in a direction that could not be reached. ALSO a tip, in case you can't find a torx socket to fit the the three aluminum pump bolts - a 10mm 12 point socket works.

Hope it helps.

a.s.roma 01-14-2015 08:43 AM

do all 535 fuel injectors and water pumps break ?!


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