How to replace Water pump and thermostat E60 - 535 xi
Hi, recently the radiator fan went crazy and 2 minutes later a yellow temp icon come up and 1 minute later a red temp icon telling overheating come up and I have to stop my car wait for it to cool down and drive by segments to my home. Basically every-time the yellow icon will come up I stopped not letting the red icon to show up.
Long history short. I found out 2 trouble codes with my scanner (2E82 AND 2E83). Note: if you find any combination of the codes below:
FC 2E81 Electric coolant pump, speed deviation, speed outside the tolerance
FC 2E82 Electric coolant pump cutoff, over-current
FC 2E83 Electric coolant pump, power-reduced operation, dry run
FC 2E84 Electric coolant pump, communication
FC 2E85 Electric coolant pump, communication, no voltage at emergency operation input of pump
the bulletin from BMW tells to replace the water pump.
Car millage: 66K.
Below is what I did. BTW, a digital phone camera will help you to remember how to assemble parts back :-)
Expected time to perform for home mechanic: 3-4 hours. Pro: 2 hour max.
Tools: Phillips crew drivers and flat screw drivers, wrenches or sockets from 4 to 16 (you will need 8 - 10 - 17), special torx socket tool for the aluminum screws for the water pump - max torque 10NM.
Parts: 2 gallons of coolant (424), water pump ($420), screws ($8), Thermostat ($110)
Water pump (WP) and thermostat are located in the non-driver side below the engine. Sorry, you will have to remove both to replace the WP.
1- rise your car so you can reach all the lower splash panels/cover in the bottom of the car
2- secure the car so it does not move and disconnect the battery (rear of the car non- driver side).
3- take out front and back splash (around 20+) screws
4- remove lower protector plate ( 6 big bolts). You will need air powered tools or heavy and good wrenches.
5- remove bolt and move hydraulic hose to the left so you can make room.
6- remove hoses from the thermostat
6.1 - start removing the ones that have the secure wire to keep them in place. Take out the wire lock (you can pry it with a small screwdriver) and then pull the connector out of the each one. (you can drain your system at this time :-) ) thus, have a handy container to collect the cooling fluid.
6.2 - remove the 2 bolts that keep the thermostat in place
6.3 - pull the thermostat to the side so you can see and reach the other 2 hoses
6.4 - gently unscrew the clamp that holds the small hose - fluid will drain when you remove the hose- and then pull to the side to remove the hose.
6.5 - gently unscrew the clamp that hold the big hose - fluid again - and with one hand reach the hose from the back of the frame and pull with your other hand the thermostat.
7. now you can reach the top bolt to remove the WP. Remove the 3 bolts.
8. pull the water pump and detach the hose that connect the thermostat - make sure you remember of have a picture of the position of the hose.
9. now you can reach and detach from the WP the hose that connects the WP with the engine - make sure you remember of have a picture of the position of the hose.
10. remove the electrical connector to the WP.
11. Installation procedure is the opposite from 10 to 1.
12. Make car level in garage.
13. Fill fluid to top, close cap, initiate bleed process: key in, then press ignition on (do not press the break) - then accelerator pedal to the floor - 5-10 seconds and you should heard the pump working - and wa-la, pump operated for a minute or less, loosen cap and refill; repeat process until level is OK. note: When the pump operated, I smiled.
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Great post Way to save the engine cooling periods and detailed COR= Car Owner Repair . :)
Julio, great write up.
But do you have picture for the special tools? is it torx?
that's what i wonder as well
As to item 13. of the above write-up, I would like to point out that the bleed process is different in the Bentley's manual for the N54 turbo engine. It is an automatic sequence initiated after selecting the lowest fan speed and heat set to max. and holding the accelarator down for about 10 seconds with ignition on. The automatic process runs exactly 12 minutes and shuts off by itself. Also coolant reservoir cap needs to be closed.
Attached PDF lists details.
Attached are a picture of the necessary torx socket wrench and the water pump bolts.
Good write up. I replaced mine Friday. Took me much longer but I have big hands :) getting everything out was the tough part for me. Putting back together was quick. You can drain most fluid out through the petcock valve, I would also suggest a large shallow drain pan as fluids will trickle down other places. I did an oil change while I had her up.
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