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-   -   How to replace Water pump and thermostat E60 - 535 xi (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=661834)

Julio_Lujambio@ 12-02-2012 08:18 PM

How to replace Water pump and thermostat E60 - 535 xi
 
Hi, recently the radiator fan went crazy and 2 minutes later a yellow temp icon come up and 1 minute later a red temp icon telling overheating come up and I have to stop my car wait for it to cool down and drive by segments to my home. Basically every-time the yellow icon will come up I stopped not letting the red icon to show up.

Long history short. I found out 2 trouble codes with my scanner (2E82 AND 2E83). Note: if you find any combination of the codes below:

FC 2E81 Electric coolant pump, speed deviation, speed outside the tolerance
FC 2E82 Electric coolant pump cutoff, over-current
FC 2E83 Electric coolant pump, power-reduced operation, dry run
FC 2E84 Electric coolant pump, communication
FC 2E85 Electric coolant pump, communication, no voltage at emergency operation input of pump

the bulletin from BMW tells to replace the water pump.

Car millage: 66K.

Below is what I did. BTW, a digital phone camera will help you to remember how to assemble parts back :-)

Expected time to perform for home mechanic: 3-4 hours. Pro: 2 hour max.

Tools: Phillips crew drivers and flat screw drivers, wrenches or sockets from 4 to 16 (you will need 8 - 10 - 17), special torx socket tool for the aluminum screws for the water pump - max torque 10NM.

Parts: 2 gallons of coolant (424), water pump ($420), screws ($8), Thermostat ($110)

Water pump (WP) and thermostat are located in the non-driver side below the engine. Sorry, you will have to remove both to replace the WP.

Procedure:
1- rise your car so you can reach all the lower splash panels/cover in the bottom of the car
2- secure the car so it does not move and disconnect the battery (rear of the car non- driver side).
3- take out front and back splash (around 20+) screws
4- remove lower protector plate ( 6 big bolts). You will need air powered tools or heavy and good wrenches.
5- remove bolt and move hydraulic hose to the left so you can make room.
6- remove hoses from the thermostat
6.1 - start removing the ones that have the secure wire to keep them in place. Take out the wire lock (you can pry it with a small screwdriver) and then pull the connector out of the each one. (you can drain your system at this time :-) ) thus, have a handy container to collect the cooling fluid.
6.2 - remove the 2 bolts that keep the thermostat in place
6.3 - pull the thermostat to the side so you can see and reach the other 2 hoses
6.4 - gently unscrew the clamp that holds the small hose - fluid will drain when you remove the hose- and then pull to the side to remove the hose.
6.5 - gently unscrew the clamp that hold the big hose - fluid again - and with one hand reach the hose from the back of the frame and pull with your other hand the thermostat.
7. now you can reach the top bolt to remove the WP. Remove the 3 bolts.
8. pull the water pump and detach the hose that connect the thermostat - make sure you remember of have a picture of the position of the hose.
9. now you can reach and detach from the WP the hose that connects the WP with the engine - make sure you remember of have a picture of the position of the hose.
10. remove the electrical connector to the WP.
11. Installation procedure is the opposite from 10 to 1.
12. Make car level in garage.
13. Fill fluid to top, close cap, initiate bleed process: key in, then press ignition on (do not press the break) - then accelerator pedal to the floor - 5-10 seconds and you should heard the pump working - and wa-la, pump operated for a minute or less, loosen cap and refill; repeat process until level is OK. note: When the pump operated, I smiled.

good luck!.

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luckydog 12-02-2012 11:20 PM

Great post Way to save the engine cooling periods and detailed COR= Car Owner Repair . :)

HPIA4v2 12-03-2012 07:12 AM

Julio, great write up.

But do you have picture for the special tools? is it torx?

bighead2267 12-03-2012 12:05 PM

that's what i wonder as well

legend700 12-03-2012 01:01 PM

1 Attachment(s)
As to item 13. of the above write-up, I would like to point out that the bleed process is different in the Bentley's manual for the N54 turbo engine. It is an automatic sequence initiated after selecting the lowest fan speed and heat set to max. and holding the accelarator down for about 10 seconds with ignition on. The automatic process runs exactly 12 minutes and shuts off by itself. Also coolant reservoir cap needs to be closed.
Attached PDF lists details.

Julio_Lujambio@ 12-03-2012 01:17 PM

Bolts
 
2 Attachment(s)
Attached are a picture of the necessary torx socket wrench and the water pump bolts.

Julio_Lujambio@ 12-03-2012 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HPIA4v2 (Post 7227956)
Julio, great write up.

But do you have picture for the special tools? is it torx?

see above I posted pictures

MachtSchnell 12-04-2012 05:36 AM

Good write up. I replaced mine Friday. Took me much longer but I have big hands :) getting everything out was the tough part for me. Putting back together was quick. You can drain most fluid out through the petcock valve, I would also suggest a large shallow drain pan as fluids will trickle down other places. I did an oil change while I had her up.

Jparson 07-07-2013 08:18 PM

Special tools for star bolts not needed
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Julio_Lujambio@ (Post 7228597)
Attached are a picture of the necessary torx socket wrench and the water pump bolts.

The regular sockets will work for the star bolts they fit snug and wont slip if u use the right size. I removed my water pump and thermostat with all regular sockets, u will need the small ratchet to get in the tight areas. Don't waist your money!

Kmayer20 11-15-2013 06:44 PM

I'm considering changing my thermostat and water pump too. Did you guys do work at a garage with a lift or is it possible to use a car ramp?

I had 2 hour drive home tonight which is usually a 20 minutes ride because of the red overheat indicator came on every other minute.

Car: 2006 530xi

Where should I buy the thermostat and water pump?

Kevin

MachtSchnell 11-15-2013 07:04 PM

I did mine in the garage with a jack and some stands. I bought parts from the dealer I couldn't be without the car waiting on parts to be delivered. Getting past the hydronic lines for were the most difficult part of the Job. Loosen the brackets that hold them if you don't want to disconnect them and had to drain refill them.

Kmayer20 11-15-2013 08:11 PM

Thanks MachtShnell. I assume you did this work on the 08 535xi?
I have an 06 and my indie mechanic told me BMW made some changes to the 5 series in late 06.

I'm not sure what changes we're made, but he told me you can't just replace the thermostat on early 06 530 XI and that the thermostat and pump are sold together for yhst reason. Originally my mechanic was going to replace the thermostat, but then called to say that's not possible!?

Looks like I need to do some more research.

Thanks for the response, I hope that they are the same or close so i can do the work myself and can Julio's great instructions.

MachtSchnell 11-17-2013 02:14 PM

Sorry replaced it on a 08 535i. no need for AWD in Hotlanta. I am not sure about the 06, but depending on the mileage of the current water pump you might save yourself some time and heart ache by doing them both now. My thermostat went and just replaced it, 3-6 months later my pump went out, woulda coulda shoulda. Hope you have a heated garage, starting to get cold up in CT. I am up there often in Danbury and Shelton and this is not my favorite time of year up there.

cadillacby 10-07-2014 04:34 PM

Hello. I replaced water pump(continental OEM) and thermostat(hamann) on my 535XI and now I'm getting the error code p0128. Error code refer to bad thermostat, so i was thinking to put old thermostat back. I replaced everything because water pump developed a leak on the seam.

banglenot 10-07-2014 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cadillacby (Post 8633242)
Hello. I replaced water pump(continental OEM) and thermostat(hamann) on my 535XI and now I'm getting the error code p0128. Error code refer to bad thermostat, so i was thinking to put old thermostat back. I replaced everything because water pump developed a leak on the seam.

Did you run the electronic bleeding procedure?

cadillacby 10-07-2014 04:53 PM

yes. Do you think it can be the problem? i can try it one more time. i got code 2ef4: Motor Control:
Engine / Motor
Fehler: Map-controlled thermostat, mechanical / Map thermostat cooling, mechanical / Kennfeldthermostat, m
Code: 2EF4

cadillacby 10-07-2014 04:59 PM

Also, after i erase the code its coming back not instantly, but like in 3-5 days. Its happen approx. after 15 minutes of driving the car, not when i start the car right away.

banglenot 10-08-2014 06:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cadillacby (Post 8633300)
Also, after i erase the code its coming back not instantly, but like in 3-5 days. Its happen approx. after 15 minutes of driving the car, not when i start the car right away.

Check to see if the thermostat's electrical connection is fully seated.

DDENT 11-26-2014 09:39 PM

Water Pump Failure
 
2006 525i with 113k miles. Posting to help others in the situation.

Symptoms:
- Driving moderate warning
- Overheat warning: car went up to 132C but never into limp mode
- Loud continuous radiator fan blowing and sometimes cycles fast to slow to fast (usually when the heater is on). Sometimes, the fan blows loud right at start-up, even in 40-degree weather.
- Heater would work when the water pump was working and suddenly gets cold. Then, the car began to overheat.

Took the car to the mechanic, and he said there were no codes. He mentioned a valve cover gasket leak that might've been short-circuiting the electrical wires and giving off false readings. I bought the gasket and replaced it--no more leaks. Then, the car began overheating even faster. I thought the car had electrical problems because the water pump sometimes worked and other times didn't, so I cleaned all the wiring on a warmer day. All of a sudden, the car began to operate fine for a little while (thinking the problems only occurred in the cold weather). The problem came back. Everytime the car reached a high temperature, I would pull over, turn the car off, and run the coolant bleeding cycle. The water pump would turn on, and the engine temperature went down. That method worked for about 2 weeks before the water pump officially died. A few days later, the battery level was very low. I guess running the bleeding procedure and having the radiator fan coming on at full speed killed the battery.

I bought a thermostat (~$70) and water pump ($399) from oembimmerparts and did the replacement. It's a fairly easy job and took 2-3 hours. Everything works fine now. Hopefully, I don't run into anymore problems with that.


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