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BMWZ4RIDER 12-18-2012 02:36 PM

Easy and In Expensive Projects
 
12 Attachment(s)
1. LED Interior Lamps-. Just finished my LED Interior lamp upgrade. I used the Phillips T10 X Treme Vision 6000K, 1 watt LED lamps. I replaced the 3 domes, 2 footwell, 2 puddle and 1 trunk lamps. I loved the new higher light output but knew it could be brighter for the footwell, puddle and trunk lamps. I removed the 6, brown, plastic lamp housings and lined them with Heavy Duty Aluminum Foil (Reynolds wrap). This provides a highly reflective, heat resistant, easy to install, bright reflector surface for the highest light output possible and easy to replace and or remove for the smallest cost possibe. These lamps as well are only 1 watt and produce only 1 watt of heat vs the standard 5 watt glass jacketed W5W lamps. Light output is at least 20% higher.

2. BMW (metal) Logo Valve Stem Caps- No biggie, but on this site and I was told direct from BMW to not install them in metal. Reasons: The metal caps can weld themselves on the stems 2. BMW states possible interference with the TPMS with error messages.
To solve both issues, I wrapped the valve stem threads with teflon tap, therefore creating a gap and a non metal to metal surface of the cap to the valve stem threads.

3. Aluminum Pedal Set (3) Installed- Throttle, Brake and Dead Pedal. I gambled with my order on EBay, from a company called DDC located in China for $34.97 SHIPPED. They arrived in 10 days from China, by USPS. I paid with Paypal.

Throttle- I clamped the pedal onto the plastic OEM pedal. I carefully marked the mounting holes and drilled only 1 hole at a time and installed each screw after drilling, to ensure perfect fit. I used appx 1/2 inch, very small phillips SS screws. For the ease of install, I unbolted the Allen bolt on the base of the pedal and removed it from the upper metal frame but left it installed ( as I could get the wire connector off). This gave enough slack in the wire to get the needed clearance for the drill and install.

Brake- Remove the rubber pad on the pedal and install in the same format as above except mounting with the Allen botls and lock nuts provided. Be care to measure many times before drilling and mounting, to get it centered. There is very little room for error on the pedal.

Dead Pedal- Ths pedal did not cover 100% of the OEM plastic, but who is going to know and for the price and quality, I am very happy.
I did not want to drill holes on the floor pan, wheel well to have possible water intrusion, so as I did with my former Acura, I installed the dead pedal with Industrial Strength Velcro. I hot glued the rubber insert pad to the Aluminum pedal frame.
I cut the screw heads off the SS screws and hot glued them into the mounting holes so it looked like it is screwed on. I cut the Velcro to size and to cover the complete pedal except for a 1/4 gap around the outer edge of the pedal. Before installing the Velcro, I used my heat gun and heated the Velcro to kick start the glue and then heated the plastic dead pedal. I installed the Velcro, both sides on the pedal and removed the backing side which mounts onto the plastic dead pedal, so there was no need to try to match up the 2 sides. Once heated and installed, I used my foot for full pressure. Clean, easy and inexpensive.

Carl3 12-19-2012 06:44 AM

$35?.. Nice!


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