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-   -   1997 318i wont start (http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=668609)

agonzalez8565 01-07-2013 04:21 PM

1997 318i wont start
 
Hey guys! First time on here and I could really use some help with my BMW. I few days ago I was driving my 1997 318i sedan on the freeway and my car began to make a clicking noise as I pressed the gas pedal. The noise would become louder as the vehicle sped up then lower as the gears shifted. Engine light also came on. I quickly saw an Autozone stopped and figured it was an oil issue. I check the dip stick and I was slightly low, so i purchased a quart and added 0w-40 mobil 1 synthetic oil (probably should have been 5w-30). Now the noise still continued and I was almost home so decided to make the trek their. On the way the engine stopped running and had to tow the car home. Now the engine wont start and before I take it to a mechanic and get robbed of my money I'd like to hear you guy's opinion.

TRaV MaNN 01-07-2013 04:26 PM

See what the check engine light says. It's the best start you can make

jonesin 01-07-2013 04:41 PM

1. Nothing wrong with 0 W40 whatsoever.

2. What was the oil level when you got home?

3. Did the car by chance overheat at all?

4. What is the coolant level?

5. Did the temperature gauge move even a little past the 12 o'clock position?

6. What noises does the car make when you turn the key now?

agonzalez8565 01-07-2013 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jonesin (Post 7296946)
1. Nothing wrong with 0 W40 whatsoever.

2. What was the oil level when you got home?

3. Did the car by chance overheat at all?

4. What is the coolant level?

5. Did the temperature gauge move even a little past the 12 o'clock position?

6. What noises does the car make when you turn the key now?


1. Great!
2. Oil level was fine when I got home.
3. Car did not over heat.
4. Coolant level was a little low. I added water when I first heard engine ticking.
5. It was more near the 11 o'clock position. It was a cool night
6. The engine cranks and you can hear a slow repetitive ticking as the engine is cranking, but wont start.

agonzalez8565 01-07-2013 05:18 PM

Also the yellow and red inspection light comes..

hornhospital 01-07-2013 05:39 PM

Does the ticking sound like it's coming from the drivers or passengers side of the engine, or maybe the front?

jonesin 01-07-2013 05:50 PM

Sounds like a weak battery/alternator, but I don't know know what would have caused the initial ticking...

agonzalez8565 01-07-2013 06:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hornhospital (Post 7297055)
Does the ticking sound like it's coming from the drivers or passengers side of the engine, or maybe the front?

Coming from the passenger side of the engine.

hornhospital 01-07-2013 07:14 PM

Possibly a plug loose in the head. That would explain the "ticking".

E36 Phantom 01-07-2013 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hornhospital (Post 7297230)
Possibly a plug loose in the head.

Sounds like some people I deal with at work.....

Sent from my Galaxy Tab using BimmerApp

hornhospital 01-07-2013 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by E36 Phantom (Post 7297286)
Sounds like some people I deal with at work.....

Sent from my Galaxy Tab using BimmerApp

:rofl:

agonzalez8565 01-09-2013 04:42 PM

Had time to work on it today. Ran a diagnostics and code P0335 came up crankshaft position sensor failure. Removed the crankshaft and tested it with a multimeter and read like .134 ohms. So looks like a bad sensor. Ordering the part soon and hope to get things rolling all over again.

petriej 01-11-2013 10:29 AM

The crankshaft should not have such a high resistance. It's made of high quality steel. Should easily be in the microOhms.

Also, how did you remove it so quickly? I heard it's quite a bear of a job.

hornhospital 01-11-2013 10:53 AM

Removing the crank and cam position sensors is simple. Lot of crap to get off to access them, but nothing to it once you get there. On the four cylinders the hardest part is getting to the connections under the upper intake manifold. Easiest to just take the upper manifold off and set it aside with everything still connected to it.

Crank position sensor should be 1280 ohms, + or - 10%

petriej 01-11-2013 10:56 AM

Oh definitely. The sensors are made to be replaced easily.

hornhospital 01-11-2013 10:58 AM

I think he meant he tested the crank position sensor, not the crank!

petriej 01-11-2013 10:59 AM

That makes much more sense.

erkkinen 01-13-2013 06:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by petriej (Post 7306129)
The crankshaft should not have such a high resistance. It's made of high quality steel. Should easily be in the microOhms.

Also, how did you remove it so quickly? I heard it's quite a bear of a job.

:D

Petrie, am I the only one who got this? I do a lot of electronics repair, so the vision of someone yanking a crank to put an ohmmeter on it just cracks me up

petriej 01-13-2013 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by erkkinen (Post 7309841)
:D

Petrie, am I the only one who got this? I do a lot of electronics repair, so the vision of someone yanking a crank to put an ohmmeter on it just cracks me up

:D

Most of the time I try to pick nits and be funny. Glad someone got it! :thumbup:


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