L7 amp ????
 

So i took my 7 in to the local dealer. My bass goes in and out. The dealer says my subs are blown. I know car audio and i highly doubt it. When subs are blown they dont just work one day and stop the next. Thats a connection or amplifier issue! What do you guys think? They also wanted $900 per speaker to repair. Insane!

well the subs are pretty easy to access... four bolts connect seat to floor... lean seat back and viola - access to subs.... check for yourself.... test the leads on sub with volt meter on ohm setting or continuity.... check cable from amp for voltage (presence of signal) (while audio is on).. hook up sub to another source see if it works at all (dont keep it on another source for long, impedance mismatch can damage speaker and amp) and wrong frequencies not good for sub... try another sub to connections to car amp... \

even if subs were "blown" you will still get sound but distorted as hell... usully spyder becomes disconnected from cone or coils burn out.... the latter could cause no sound (which is what continuity test is for)

Thanks for the quick response. What size subs are under the seat and whats the ohm load on them?

8"..... as far as impedance, 6ohm is standard for most car applications, and 8ohm for most home applications, but I dont know for sure for this car..... someone else on here will tho.... 2 and 4 ohm are usually set on afteramrket subs, but I have found on cars with integrated subs (stock) the subs impedance matches the whole system

Stock subs are 4 ohms

Thanks, what subs would you recommend. I see bmw tis is down aswell. How do i remove them?

So i got the subs out. Seems like they are fine. I think the dealer is messin with me. 4ohm single voice coil by the way.

If you want to replace them with aftermarket subs you can buy the earthquake shallow 8 inch subs. Here is a link below

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...at=0&_from=R40

It's not your speakers it's your L7amp. Subs Ch. goes bad first.

+1

Emeer18 it is l7 amp ....Rookie is so right. I have the same problems with mine. A INDY told it was the subwoofer ....NOT. Soon your Sub's will stop working all together ......it's RARE for Both subs to go out....unless its the channel powering them from the amp go out.

theres a thread on here to fix... or send to ilya.... price is right, but he's ~~~~~~~~~ alright...

Thanks guys for all your input! I had it out with the dealer today. I got my seats out and got the subs out easily. I tested each speaker. They sounded crisp and clear. Then went to two local car audio shops. They backed up my conclusion. Went back to the dealer sat the sub on the mans desk and demanded a real diagnosis. The amp is barely a year old! Its under a 2.5 year warranty. I think the dealers trying to avoid replacing it!

The subs already stopped working, they jus have popping now. The doors are the only things working

of course... that amp is $1200 (retail at dealer) so the invoice cant be less than 1000...

Update: So they finally diagnose the L7 again and determine its not sending a signal to the speakers. Big surprise! And they wont give me the diagnosis fee back even thou they agreed to!

Just send it to ilya he'll fix it and it'll sound better and last longer than whatever the dealer would replace it with.

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Thanks but its already getting replaced under warranty.

Just replaced my Logic 7 amp....it took about 15-20 to replace amp. My subwoofers are working excellent now!!!!

Im still waiting on mine to arrive, its always the amps.