DIY:- AUDIO UPGRADE PROCEDURE for E65/66
You can upgrade the audio units in our cars if you follow these steps, it can be for whatever type of audio your needs are for:
first off the ASK unit powers the front doors and the rear deck.
the L7 powers the back doors, subs and center channel.
You will be eliminating the power output of the ASK unit and the L7 amplifier. all features will stilll work just louder such as backup, phone, speech. The equalizer and tone controls are still fully functional but the L7 gauge will have no control anymore.
BMW Logic 7
TOP-HIFI SYSTEM AMPLIFIER
HiFi System Professional DSP
The 7-Series E65/66/68 LOGIC7 system has 420 Watts total with 9 outputs (7.2) that drive 13 speakers. 5 of the channels come from the LOGIC 7 amp in the trunk, 4 of the channels are 30 Watts per and the remaining channel is 15 Watts. The other 4 channels come from the ASK/in-dash CD module. Speakers consist of 4x 44mm tweeters, 7x 100mm midranges and 2x 210mm subwoofers:
LOGIC7 Amplifier Connector X18773, 20-pin
1 & 11 - Rear Left Door Mid-Range Speaker
2 & 12 - Rear Right Door Mid-Range Speaker
3 & 13 - No Connection
4 & 14 - No Connection
5 & 15 - Front Center Speaker
6 & 16 - Front Right Subwoofer
7 & 17 - No Connection
8 & 18 - Front Left Subwoofer
9 & 19 - No Connection
10 - Power +12V
20 - Ground
LOGIC7 Amplifier Connector X10633, MOST bus connector
ASK Module, Connector X18805:
1 & 5 - Rear Right Mid-Range Speaker
4 & 8 - Rear Left Mid-Range Speaker
2 & 6 - Front Right Speakers (Tweeter & Mid-Range)
3 & 7 - Front Left Speakers (Tweeter & Mid-Range)
L Yellow/green (3) yellow/brown (7)
R blue/red (2) blue/brown (6)
L black/red (4) black/violet (8)
R black/white (1) black/brown (5)
L red/white (8) grey/yellow (18)
R red/blue (6) brown/white (16)
Black/white (5) black/brown (15)
L yellow/black (1) yellow/brown (11)
R blue/green (2) blue/brown (12)
what you will need is a device like the JL clean sweep which will turn four channels into six channel output: front L+R, rear L+R and subs L+R.
at the ASK unit you will need to cut the output lead approx. 3 inches from ask unit, that will leave you with wires of the same color towards the ASK unit and towards the car.
The wires towards the ask unit (these are your input) extend the towards the rear of the car on the drivers side towards the L7 amplifier ( make sure you label them as front L+R, rear L+R ). These will be connected to the input of the Clean Sweep (if used).
The wires that are towards the car (these are your output) extend them towards the rear near the L7 amplifier.
Now the L7 amp you will need to cut the rear doors wires approx. 3 inches from the amp. These will need to mate with the rear output wire from the ask unit (L+R, positive to positive, negative to negative). These wires needs to be added to the rear channels of the amplifier that will be running you mid and treble frequency, also connect the front speaker wires also to the front channel.
Also at the L7 amp cut the subs wires also the same as above, connect these to the amplifier you will be using for the low frequency. The only speaker that will be on the L7 amp will be the center channel. You can upgrade the subs if you choose and even add a sub-woofer to the trunk if need to. (I would recommend that the subs below the seat are 4 ohms and wired in series, the woofer in the trunk need to be wired to the others in parallel.
Run you power to the battery and ground to the ground block.
amps should be approx.
your high frequency 50 watts rms per. channel at 4 ohm. Subs amp should be 800 watts rms if all speakers have the same specs as the JBL earthquake SWS speakers.
There are a number of woofer brands that have the same mounting depth but the bolt holes will have to be modified. The JBL Earthquake SWS 8'' subs are a direct drop in replacement. The wiring will be pretty intense, 80% of the vehicle interior will have to be removed for this to be completed correctly.
hope this point all in the right direction
The method above is the low budget approach, but some will say it is not. Well the other way is to obtain a MOBRIDGE DA2 most bus interface and everything else is straight forward. This will be all you need but if you are really into soundQ then you will still need a DSP so you can align all the channel phases and get the time delay corrected with your tuning.
Hope this helps
So if my L7 amp is hooked up but it's bad like most of us,it won't work? Will that just amplify the bad signal because it's after the l7 amp output?
Anybody have any pix of this done
DIY:- AUDIO UPGRADE PROCEDURE for E65/66
Bump...... C'mon guys help.. Please
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it depends, are you just using the fiber signal for a unit like the Mobridge DA2000 or the AGW plus then the L7 could be damage, if you want to use the speaker leads for LOC's then the L7 needs to be 100% functional
Im going to do my system 2007 750 li clean sweep from jl audio one problem yhe color codes for tge subs are wrong here theres no grey color coming from tge amp.. please help
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