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1hander 06-04-2013 08:24 PM

540i sport keeps warping front left rotor
i first want to say I love my car. 189675 miles and i just got from a nonstop trip front san antonio texas to sacramento ..and back trip... a few times running 110mph for extended periods.. not a single these things love the open road ...

since ive had it..2 years, it regularly warps the front left rotor only. I put brembo drillred rotors on it thinking it needs more cooling for the way i drive.. but even if i drive warps a rotor every 3000 milles or so...on the button without fail, to the point that its no longer tolerable

i have 3 rotors that i cut and swap out on a regular basis,when i cant take it anymore...

any ideas why its just the front left

TemporarySanity 06-04-2013 08:43 PM

Your caliper is sticking. I had the exact same problem till I replaced the caliper.

moots 06-04-2013 08:43 PM

Yr caliper pistons are sticky.they do not release the pistons n thus heats up the discs till eventually they warp.have them overhauled ie remove them and chg out the piston seals.

Sent from my GT-I9070 using Bimmer App

1hander 06-04-2013 08:49 PM

sweet .... i was thinking it had to be a heat issue with huge drilled rotors... the only other thing i was gonna reach for was the thrust arm going bad again..

with all the work and money ive put into it i just cant get rid of it..i think it may be time to give the 5 some brembos for the hell of the factorys are more than capable with some ebc greens

at any rate fellas
thank you much

shaftdrive 06-04-2013 11:16 PM

They're probably not warping but the only way to know for sure is to measure them off the axle.
You probably have uneven pad deposition although a bunch of things can cause brake vibration and they're all well covered here.
Brake judder is usually self inflicted, almost always caused by the way you brake.
Do a google search for "brakes don't warp" for the easy and free fix.
It has been discussed many times here so it's well covered how to fix it and to prevent it in the future.

1hander 06-04-2013 11:27 PM

ive read that before... i do the proper break in, each time ive swapped out rotors, putting new pads and doing as told for bed in etc etc...even when i drive and come to stops i never hold the brakes if possible..

if its pad material being deposited unevely, then its definately being caused by a sticky caliper/piston

i understand the science but i cant get passed why when i turn the rotor in the cuts unevenly ... until sufficient material is removed as its even again..and they keep mentioning pedal pulsation, mine is steering wheeling going side to side.. so maybe its something else

evanwest94 06-04-2013 11:55 PM

Re: 540i sport keeps warping front left rotor
As everyone is saying. The piston is sticking on the caliper. Breaking it in won't do anything if its sticking. It would save you a lot of money if you just buy a pre loaded caliper and pad assembly. The rotors never turn or resurface well. So new rotors are recommended too especially on German vehicles. Calipers get old too. An easy test you can do is to spin the right and left front and if one is harder to spin as in your case its the left front. Then there's your problem. Calipers are often overlooked so replace them every time you do a brake job. Pad slaps are no good

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Burning2nd 06-05-2013 02:33 AM

wooo wooo wooo... slow your roll there cowboy...

did you change to the sport pins?
is the left side wearing the pads evenly?
ive got about the same milage as you.. and i offen exceed that speed as well..

change to the sport pins..(no lube)
i highly doubt your calibers are in need of a rebuild... Ive seen em go well over 300k b4 seeping

you probly still got those stupid rubber bushing and metal pins... those are one of bimmers stupidest designs, if your caliber was sticking you would have a break fire in no time..

your pins are sticking

Burning2nd 06-05-2013 02:37 AM

Duplicate post

Burning2nd 06-05-2013 02:38 AM


Originally Posted by evanwest94 (Post 7631238)
Calipers are often overlooked so replace them every time you do a brake job. Pad slaps are no good

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are you outta your frakking mind!

on what planet of service is this acceptable ?

Topaz540i 06-05-2013 04:36 AM

I usually have the entire subframe replaced whenever i do a brake job. I also change the timing chain guides everytime i replace the oil.

Burning2nd 06-05-2013 06:07 AM


evanwest94 06-05-2013 09:16 AM

Re: 540i sport keeps warping front left rotor
I do at least 5 brake jobs a day. If you want to eliminate any all chances of this happening again. Replace the caliper. They're only $60 its not like you have some 6 piston brembos. Your going off of what you've seen last on other people's cars. I've seen cars last 110xxx miles on original brake pads and then I've seen brakes that have lasted 6xxx with a sticking caliper. Its all your choice in the end. But its always better safe than sorry.

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1hander 06-05-2013 12:54 PM

yes, it still has the rubber boot things....
yes the pad wears abouyt the same on the left side

i looked under the rubber boot around the piston, it has rust and some pitting...i looked at the slider pins and its obvious the problem is there , the corrosion, or rust or whatever it is , is causing the caliper to stick on the sliders on the left side...the right side also shows signs of going along the same path as the left one

also it looks like the traction arm(thrust) on that side has given up the ghost again..second one in two years...

i need to look a little deeper, as it looks like theres something else going on here...maybe the rotor pulsing is wearing out the thrust arm , idk, but it merits looking a bit deeper..

so i checked the hub for runout and immediately noticed the bearing is sick on the left side...had about .006 runout that would change high spots during rotation..

so at this point
ive ordered
2 new thrust arms
2 new brembo rotors
2 new calipers and carriers
2 new hubs and bearing
new set of green pads.

even though it doesnt have 300k miles on it, ive just gotten to the point where things are old enough on it that i have just started to replace anything that goes bad with new parts and i replace in twos to avoid doing the other side at a later date.

but i will be doind the thrust arms and replacing the hubs first to get down to which one part fixes the problem...

cn90 06-05-2013 01:07 PM

Do a hydraulic brake overhaul:
- 6 hoses
- all seals/rubber boots

Parts cost $140.

DIY: 1998 BMW 528i, PARKING Brake Overhaul

1hander 06-05-2013 01:09 PM

good idea, i also orrdered braided stainless lines.....

Crutzy 06-05-2013 10:40 PM


Originally Posted by evanwest94 (Post 7631964)
I do at least 5 brake jobs a day.

A mechanic who is fixing cars all day every day uses a totally different algorithm for maintenance and repairs than does an individual owner.

For one, getting the car off the rack and out the door is paramount (time = money).
Also, not having that car come back for a repeat fix is critical (more time = less money).
In addition, the shop charges retail (or even double retail) for parts replaced (parts = money).
And, it's easier (read faster) to replace components than it is to diagnose them (more parts = more money).
Plus, it's often easier (hence quicker for the mechanic) to replace the whole assembly than it is to replace a part inside the assembly (time = money).

Crutzy 06-05-2013 10:42 PM


Originally Posted by 1hander (Post 7632573)
good idea, i also orrdered braided stainless lines.....

Why braided stainless steel?
What does that do that rubber won't do (besides look pretty)?
Does SS really make a difference in braking performance?

Burning2nd 06-06-2013 02:25 AM

wow... So unnecessary
This is all that is needed...

Burning2nd 06-06-2013 02:25 AM

Ill pay you for all your old parts if your gonnna throw em out

540 M-Sport 06-06-2013 09:22 AM


Originally Posted by Crutzy (Post 7633792)
Why braided stainless steel?
What does that do that rubber won't do (besides look pretty)?
Does SS really make a difference in braking performance?

Slightly firmer pedal feel....and will typically stay that way (better consistency throughout it's life). The one area of concern with them, is most brands do not have the proper fittings on each end to prevent "clocking" or rotating of the hose once fitted. This can cause the hose to rotate in such a way (over time) that it rubs on something and wears causing failure. I had this exact situation happen on my 540 on the left front line. The hose began rubbing on the inside fender eventually wore through the ss braiding and caused fluid loss and loss of braking. Scary. I believe forum sponsor ECS Tuning is the only vendor that makes BMW ss brake lines with the proper bosses to prevent this clocking. FWIW

If you use another brand (like Stop Tech, that I am using) you should check and inspect your brake lines at each oil change, particularly the front ones.

1hander 06-06-2013 01:42 PM

well rebuilts just have the shiny new pistons and seals, i still plan on doing the sliders..i just didnt know where to look for them...but that answers that question thank you.

the left spindle bearing is no good...the rotor either has to be turned or i might as well do both sides and be done with it....the thrust arm is definately dead... the only reason im buying the calipers is to just swap them out. same with the hub.

the brakelines yes, slightly firmer pedal feel..

the are all original parts...i dont see it as a waste of money or uneccesary.. i plan on keeping my car. i just see it as an investment...the parts are too cheap not to.

Burning2nd 06-06-2013 03:40 PM

they have the sport pins for sale there.. you should also do the rear..

Stainless steel brake lines are completely unnecessary unless you plan on boiling your brake fluid
calibers dont go bad unless they are leaking or seized.

thrust arm.. or lower control arms.. are eazy to replace... and you should consider replacing the bushings with polyflex

Just my opinion, but your wasting your money on stuff where you could be investing it in other more valuable things

1hander 06-06-2013 03:53 PM

i understand ... i may forgo the brake lines... but its not really all that much money... i forgot to mention i rebuilt the engine , with mostly new sensors throughout ...after that bill.. even 1k here or there is not really a big deal.. i think i will change the rear pins as well... but its really not going to cost that much...maybe 600.00 total..noot even that much

and i think youre right, on the calipers but the pistons are pretty nastycorroded rusty pitted, and i wont be putting them back in if i decide to keep the calipers, they still need complete rebuilds at about 60 perside.... i got the remans for 65.00 per side.. so i just need to add the guide pins and bolt them on with new pads and turn the rotors..

i get parts stupid cheap..thats why usually just buy and replace .. i understand saving money and spending it elsewear defijnately ... but replacements have gotten inexpensive enough to not really swear the price so much.

shaftdrive 06-06-2013 06:46 PM


Originally Posted by 1hander (Post 7635485)
i get parts stupid cheap..thats why usually just buy and replace .

The guy seems like he has his act together.

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