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Bim540 10-20-2013 12:13 PM

First Bimmer Problem.. Engine Failsafe Prog
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I was driving home yesterday, and when I got into my garage, my car just shut off on its own. Nothing like this has ever happened. I turned the car back on, and it seemed to start up just fine. Within a few seconds the RPMs were almost guessing between 500-1k RPMs. The car then shut off again, while the gong alarmed, 'Engine Failsafe Prog'.

Now the car will not start. When I turn the key, it sounds as it normally does, but simply will not start. No sputter or anything. Just a constant "dit dit dit dit dit". (Or at least that's how my ears interpret things.):)

I popped the hood, and could smell a faint burning electrical smell. It didn't take long to find the source of the smell was coming from this plug/connector. (As photographed) It is the first connector toward the front of the car. I looked to see if any wires appeared to be damaged (to the left of the plug), and they do not at all. From what I gather this cable/wire runs down to this photographed piece. Apologies for my lack of knowledge here.

After researching this 'Engine Failsafe Prog' code, I saw a thread discussing the temp gauge in the cluster going all the way to red when the key is in the on position. My car does this. I can't honestly say I am certain it never did before (though I'm pretty sure that it did not), but if this is truly something unusual, it may be an important piece to the puzzle.

I do not have a code reader. I plan to order one today, hopefully that will provide more info than I can. I'm just hoping that maybe this has been an issue resolved from one of the guys here.

Thank you for any help. If there's any more info I've overlooked, please ask! Thanks again!

Bim540 10-20-2013 12:16 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Second Photograph.

edjack 10-20-2013 01:38 PM

Can't tell from your pics, but there have been cases where the temp sensor failed and took out the engine computer. If the harness from the sensor to the ECU is fried, this may very well have been what happened.

Check the fuses in the ECU box.

Bim540 10-20-2013 02:45 PM

Thanks for the reply! Do I have to take the ECU out to see the fuses? I opened the E Box and there appears to be some relays, a big black box/rack unit (I'm assuming is the ECU), and a white fuse box.. With no fuses in it?

Bim540 10-20-2013 02:46 PM

Also, would that account for the connector photographed to have a burning smell?

edjack 10-20-2013 04:06 PM

Read my post again.

Bim540 10-20-2013 04:32 PM

I can't find any fuses. I must be missing something obvious here..

JimLev 10-20-2013 07:06 PM


Originally Posted by Bim540 (Post 7908606)
I can't find any fuses. I must be missing something obvious here..

You don't need to remove the DME, just take the top cover off the DME box.
The 5 fuses are located at the back of the DME box, near the firewall.
The first connector in your first post is the cam position sensor. The t-stat wires run right below the cam sensor wire.

Bim540 10-21-2013 01:15 AM

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After a bit of a headache, I was able to open the fuse box. From what I've read, fuse 'EF1' is blown. I've been able to search similar fuse charts, but I haven't found one with all 30A fuses like mine.. I'm not sure of that real matters though. Any word on what this blown fuse may narrow my problems down to?

Here's a photo to verify, the correct fuse. It is the first fuse on the left.

JimLev 10-21-2013 03:28 AM

Stop reading, take the top cover off the fuse holder in your pic, pull out the bad fuse and put a good fuse in it's place.
There's nothing special about that fuse, it's just a 30 amp fuse that any auto parts store sells. You should trace the wires back to find out why it blew.
Buy more than one fuse, if you don't find the root cause it will blow again.

Bim540 10-21-2013 04:59 AM

I took the cover off in the photo, I just set it back on the case. That fuse is certainly blown. I suppose I'm asking what the fuse is for, and given my other issues what this could mean.

Bim540 10-22-2013 05:35 PM

Well I bought a Peake reader. It came up with code 0F 82. 'Drive-by-wire throttle positioning monitoring'. Now I am really confused.. I don't see how that explains the burning electronics smell. Any thoughts?

Bim540 10-23-2013 07:00 AM

So I replaced the fuse today. The car started up as normal. I let the engine reach temp., then checked for codes.. With no results. I can still smell a faint burning electronic odor from passenger side group of wires that is well kept above the valve cover. It's still there, but doesn't seem to be worse after running the engine. There doesn't appear to be anything damaged or out of place. I tried to find where the first position fuse leads to, without much luck. All devices seem to work as normal. I don't really want to take this on the road knowing that SOMETHING had to of made this fuse blow.

Bim540 10-23-2013 07:16 AM

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I forgot to mention that the electrical smell also seems extra potent specifically on this blue/black wire. Hope this helps someone help me.

Mannyf540 10-23-2013 07:43 AM

First Bimmer Problem.. Engine Failsafe Prog
That's a vacuum hose

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Bim540 10-23-2013 07:57 AM

Explaining why it smells. Damn.. You would think getting your car to start would be a good thing. Haha.

Mannyf540 12-03-2013 09:17 AM

First Bimmer Problem.. Engine Failsafe Prog
That vacuum hose is connected to a vacuum control solenoid, ( the square little black box, there may be oil inside the hose if you have a bad PVC valve, that's my assumption anyways. Check to see if the vacum hose does not have oil inside of it

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