Not to critique your complaint but this is likely what happened. All dealers and most indy repair shops will have a battery charger / load tester machine. Their diagnostic test, if guilty of anything, is too fancy of a name for a simple charge and load test. The techie attempts to charge to batt, and then checks the voltage. If it looks good, they then perform a load test (ampherage sp?) and measure the voltage drop while doing so. If a battery is marginal or on the way out, it will show decent but not perfect voltage at rest. But when a load is applied, the voltage drops very quickly. The Service manager likely did not want to explain it in layman's terms becuase it just makes them look like crooks for charging so much for hooking up two wires to your battery, waiting an hour, then turning a knob while looking at the readouts. No reports are printed out because it is a pretty basic test. In short,m you were chgarged an appropriate amount for the repair.
Again, take some basic aut repair classes and you'll be better able to diagnose your own probblems. Next time Spend $100 and buy a Optima redtop and install it yourself in 10 mins. About the 3rd battery problem. You could have a dark current draw problem somewhere. Ask the dealer to perform a test for this and see if it is within factory specs. Better yet, buy a $40 voltmeter, do some research on the internet to see how to do this and spend the 15 minutes.
I learned how to work on cars, including re&re motors, trannys...etc because dealers and mechanics are only doing their job by charging you $100+ oper hour.
2003 540i-6 M Sport
2001 Audi A4 1.8TQM
240 rwhp 1993 Turbo'd Mazda Miata
Last edited by 93LE; 08-18-2006 at 02:06 PM.