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Old 11-30-2002, 12:02 PM
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AndyM AndyM is offline
Suede Master
Location: Kansas City
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 1,414
Mein Auto: '02 3.0i Z3 Coupe
Build Up of The New Strut

Now that the stock strut is removed, it is time to build the new strut. Move into an area where you have a good amount of room and use of a vise if need be (The garage is not needed now). Lay out all the parts so that you have them and can reference them:



At this point, I removed the Cable Holder from the stock strut and put it in place on the new Strut (this is not a part that needs to be replaced but I have included the part number if you decide to use a new one):



Place the Spring Pad-Lower onto the bottom of the Strut. Be sure to line it up correctly, there is a 90-degree up bend in the strut that will correspond to the same bend in the pad. Place the spring onto the Pad to with the end of the spring aligned with the bend (The text on the spring should be right-side up):



Once the spring is in place, place the Spring Pad-Upper onto the spring noting the similar orientation of the 90-degree bend and then place the Upper Spring Plate on top of the Pad. The Flat Washer goes on top of the Plate:



It is now time to use the Spring Compressor. If you have any hesitation to use the compressor, do not. Replace the stock strut and let a professional do the rest of the work. A compressed spring has a tremendous amount of load on it, enough to go through you and probably a cinderblock wall. You could have a professional shop assemble the new struts with new springs if you wanted to. The kicker would be you’d need to buy all of the hardware like I did. Be very careful for the next few steps! If you are going ahead, place the spring compressor on the spring, I wrapped the ends of the compressor in duct tape to prevent any damage to the finish of the spring. This is not necessary and probably not recommended, but I waxed my new suspension parts so I went the extra mile.



Begin tightening the spring compressor. If your spring compressor is similar to the one I used, tighten 3 rotations of the wrench and then do the other side (Alternating between sides). Do not tighten one side and then the other! You should compress the spring until the Upper Spring Plate and Flat Washer is below the lowest thread. Here is the correct compression with the Flat Washer and Dust Protection Collar in place:



Place the Guide Support on top of the Spring Plate. The new strut will come with a nut that is 22mm that you should use. With the Guide Support and nut in place, use a 22mm Deep Socket on the nut.



To tighten the nut, you will need a 6mm Metric Allen Wrench. Place the 22mm Socket on the nut and slide the Allen Wrench inside the socket. The end of the threaded rod takes the Allen Wrench. The reason for the Allen Wrench is so that when you tighten the nut, you do not spin the threaded rod. You will need to turn the socket and hold the Allen Wrench at the same time. You may need to use a pair of pliers to hold the Allen Wrench. Since you cannot use a wrench to spin the socket, use a pair of Vise Grip Pliers to grip the side of the socket and turn while holding the Allen Wrench.



Once the socket is tight (The bottom of the Guide Support will butt up against the Blue Dust Collar on the Bilstein Strut) remove the Allen Wrench and Socket. Place the Covering Cap (I re-used this cap from the stock strut-I have included the part number incase you decide to replace it. The Covering Cap will pop right out of the stock strut, use a small flat blade screw driver to pry it off) over the area where the bolt is and then place the Washer Gasket on the top of the Guide Support:



The new strut is now assembled:

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