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Old 06-27-2007, 05:29 PM
ckleung100 ckleung100 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: toronto
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 746
Mein Auto: '99 323i
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast Bob View Post
Also, closely examine the "scissors" mechanism....I recently repaired one in my wife`s E36 that was bent, causing one side to pop out of alignment.

Regards,
Bob
there is no scissors mechanism in the rear of an e46. I did this repair last week, front and rear passenger side.

In the rear, there is only one "rail" that the window travels up and down on. On mine, the stranded cable that winds the traveler up and down the rail started to unravel. The crunching noise is the strands wrapping around the cheap plastic pulleys and guides and getting stuck. It will become very clear when you get the regulator out.

There are several wikis that describe how to remove the door panels so i wont get into this. Just a few words of advice should you attempt this yourself.

I thought one of the biggest pains in the butt was removing the foam vapour barrier/liner. I found in easier to cut the sticky black adhesive with a sharp utility knife (brand new blade) when removing the liner. If you just try pulling it away, the liner deforms or rips very easily. Just be careful not to nick any wires while cutting the adhesive. It was a relatively cool day when i did it but i suppose if is very hot where you are, the adhesive might be pliable enough to pull the liner away, if not , cut it.


You will have to remove the airbag to get to the regulator which is not that a big deal if the ignition is not on. Just remember not to start the car with the airbag removed. If you do, it will trigger the airbag warning light because the airbag is missing. You will then be in my position of searching for someone in your area with a reset tool or getting hosed by the dealer who will charge you 1 hour for a two minute reset. It cannot be reset without the tool.

Try to do this repair before the regulator is so bad the window doesn't move anymore because you need to position the window in a certain spot to access the attachment bolts on the glass through the rails. This is much easier if you can still move the window with the switch.

Good luck,


As a side note, has anyone ever tried aftermarket window regulators? I usually never advocate non-OEM parts but how can they be worse than these crappy OEM ones?


Also, in Toronto, the front regulator was cheaper than the rear even though it has two rails as opposed to one in the back. No idea why...
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