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E39 faq

393K views 144 replies 78 participants last post by  filmhunt 
#1 ·
Here's something i think we should all do. start a FAQ since these questions seems to pop up every... oh.. 6-12 days?? here's a start...
 
#59 ·
Broken interior door handle

The interior door handles look like chromed metal but they are only plastic. Pretty strong plastic but still plastic. As I found out when mine broke off in my hand.

The part is pretty cheap. I got mine from the dealer for $30 Canadian. You'll be replacing the lever and the surround.

View attachment 100378

The first thing to do is to hook the hook from the cable onto the eyelet from the handle. It's easiest to slip the handle into the hole in the door and rotate it a little to line everything up. After that it's just a matter of positioning the handle in the cutout and slotting the cable into the guide on the door handle assembly.

There's no magic to this part. You just line everything up as good as you can looking through a gap and then tugging the assembly to the right, away from the trailing edge of the door.

It's a tight fit and it requires some muscle but that's all there is to it.
 
#60 · (Edited)
i <3 Autozone

Believe it or not, Autozone's Online is great to get part #'s for what you need and the price is pretty good too.

www.autozone.com

ie:
i needed pre-cat O2's:
Oxygen Sensor $0.00 $61.99 2 $123.98
Brand: Bosch
Part Number: 13559
Application: Sensor located before catalytic converter

and free Fed-Ex ground shipping..

after taxes: $132.66

if you're going with a STOCK flywheel:
Luk / Flywheel
Manual Transmission
Warranty - 1 YR
DMF020
$383.99
^^ Special Order Item

So if you're looking for some OEM parts, shop around, of course, but do check with Autozone. they are everywhere and they can even special deliever the part to your local Autozone for pick up! They may not always have the best prices but it doesn't hurt to check
 
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#63 ·
The infamous "maintenance cost" question.

People frequently have bizarre ideas about how much maintenance of an older BMW will cost. Well, edmunds.com now has a maintenance schedule and costs for most cars.

This is not E39 specific, but it's a valuable resource nonetheless:

edmunds maintenance calculator

Use and enjoy.
 
#64 ·
just a FYI,

the holes under the rear deck is 80.5mm; i measured it with a dial caliper just now and if you want to use that to port any sound, make sure it's 80mm or less.. but not much. you got 2 of them anyways.
 
#65 ·
Celis "Check Brake Light" after bulb change resolution

Many of us suffer from the "Check Brake Light" after changing out the small brake light bulbs in the Celis Taillights. After some research and testing, it is due to the current of the replacement bulbs.

If the replacement bulb has an amperage that is too low it will yield "Check Brake Light" just about everytime you start and shut off the car.

If the replacement bulb has an amperage that is too high it will yield "Check Brake Light", "Check Fog Lamps", "Check High Beam".

Replace bulb with sylvania 917 bulbs to resolve problem. The bulbs has an amperage of 1.2 and it will comply with LCM expectations.
 
#67 ·
Fixing a broken seat adjuster switch

There's already a link to this but might as well have it right here in front of you.

View attachment 89039
So the switch for the power seat snapped off and I figured it was going to be a "cheap" fix with a new plastic stud from BMW. Well no, the little plastic stud is part of the whole switching control box and costs a bundle.

I tried to glue it back together but it was like building a ship inside a bottle so I decided to open'er'up and try to do a better fix.

First thing, remove the switch covers. They pull straight out. Don't twist!

You'll have to take the side trim panel of the seat off. This photo is looking from the driver's footwell. You need to pop out a plastic clip (that took a lot more force than I thought!) and undo a torx screw. There's another plastic clip on the back of the seat but it's possible to access everything without having to pop that one out.
View attachment 89040

The switching control box is clipped to the trim panel and is plugged into the actuators.
View attachment 89041

Disconnect the plug and unclip the control box.
View attachment 89042

And this is what it looks like. I took the picture after I fixed it so both studs are complete.
View attachment 89043

View attachment 89044

This is the toughest part of the job. To open the box up you have to flip open all 8 plastic clips simultaneously and pry the box open. Thankfully there's no glue. I used bits of cut up plastic to hold each clip open and then used a thin screwdriver to pry the box open.
View attachment 89045

View attachment 89046
 
#68 ·
Fixing a broken seat adjuster switch part II

After you have the cover off you still have to pry up the clips on the brass plate to expose the studs.
View attachment 89047

Backside.
View attachment 89048

Backside without brass plate.
View attachment 89049

This is what everything looks like taken apart.
View attachment 89050

Then it's a simple matter of using some crazy glue and fixing the broken stud.
View attachment 89051

I got a little cocky and though I would reinforce the stud by filling it up with urethane sealant.
View attachment 89052
Big mistake! The stud has to be hollow to fit back together. Thank god for Dremel tools.

Reassembly is a two minute job. Much much easier than the disassembly.

I used a dab of vasoline on the plastic to plastic parts to reduce friction and hopefully lesson any stress on those studs. I also switched the two studs (which are identical) so the repaired stud is on the less often used backrest adjustment.

Oh and one more thing. Your seat won't move if the control box is out, the seat memory buttons won't work. So either make sure your seat is in its proper position or plan not to use your car until the job is finished. It should only take a half hour or so plus the time it takes for the glue to dry.

Good luck!
 
#69 ·
Thanks Chiefwej,

I use your idea but guess what? I wedge it in the armrest (aka phone craddle).
99% of the time I am the only driver.
Once in a while, there are kids in the rea so it is very useful.

The key thing is use asmall piece of cradboard or paper to wedge it in the arm rest. See the pics.

HTH someone looking for a cheap solution for the REAR cup holder.
 

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#71 ·
Leaky door barrier pic.

Since I didn't see real pics of the barrier and the leak-allowing holes, I thought I'd share this one for anyone about to tackle this job:
 

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#73 ·
I think i have solved the nebulus M5 -> 540 diff question


the following flanges will work to keep your 540 half shafts while using M5 diff..

E28: Details on E28
E28 M5 SEDAN


E31: Details on E31
E31 840Ci COUPE
E31 840i COUPE
E31 850Ci COUPE


E32: Details on E32
E32 740i SEDAN
E32 740iL SEDAN
E32 750iL SEDAN


E34: Details on E34
E34 540i SEDAN


E38: Details on E38
E38 740i SEDAN
E38 740iL SEDAN

since we know the E32 750's work, the part # is used on other models.


Part #:
331 312 140 87 x2 <-- flange
331 412 064 39 x2 <-- lock ring
 
#74 ·
E39 STOCK RIDE HEIGHT (Taken for BMW webTIS...argue over it if you want) Only shows wheels up to 18".

Ride level in NORMAL POSITION (attach tape measure to rim flange at bottom middle and measure to lower edge of wheel arch)

Deviation from nominal value for all wheels together MAX MM. 10

Series
15" mm +or- 10 (579)
16" mm +or- 10 (592)
17" mm +or- 10 (607)
18" mm +or- 10 (620)

Low-Slung sports suspension
15" mm +or- 10 (559)
16" mm +or- 10 (572)
17" mm +or- 10 (587)
18" mm +or- 10 (600)

Rough road package
15" mm +or- 10 (599)
16" mm +or- 10 (612)
17" mm +or- 10 (627)
18" mm +or- 10 (640)

M-Sport suspension
15" mm +or- 10 (562)
16" mm +or- 10 (575)
17" mm +or- 10 (590)
18" mm +or- 10 (603)
 
#78 ·
Secondary Air Pump Problems

This seems to be pretty common. I'm working on mine right now. I did some research, and thought it would be a good idea to compile the good stuff here.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=265604

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=260211

These are some good discussions on the air pump system/problems/solutions/part numbers. What I'm finding out is that replacing the valve and the air pump may fix your CEL for a while, but there may still be problems. For instance, when I took off my old air pump, being the curious person that I am, I took it apart (you pretty much have to tear the pump into pieces - but I knew it was bad so what the hey) and found that it was completely melted on the inside. So I put the new one on and it did not have any power. I found the relay in the E-box and took it out. Jumped the big two wires together and the new pump came on (only works when engine is running - and cold). So my relay is bad - stuck in the "off" position. I must assume that the relay was bad earlier - and was probably stuck in the "on" position which fried my pump due to overuse.

So, everybody will tell you that when replacing the pump, go ahead and get the secondary air pump valve. I would take that a step further and say, go ahead and get the salmon colored relay for it, too. According to this research, these relays are a main culprit for pump failure (I'm not unique). Hope this helps somebody else.
 
#79 ·
Some research for the E39 FAQ that I wish I had before I did it

Here are some DIYs and research that I would want others to have access to in the E39 FAQ.

My repair list for the 525i E39 is currently ...
- air conditioning stink research & diy
- windshield cover molding diy
- driver seat cover replacement diy
- cupholder replacement diy
- instrument cluster (pixels out) replaced by dealer
- intermittent fan blower (FSU) research
- jack lifting pads research & diy
- broken gas cap tether research
- brake bump shudder judder shake to pieces research

My maintenance list is currently ...
- four wheel brake job diy
- brake fluid diy
- H7 light bulb research
- oil change power extractor research

My nice-to-have list is currently ...
- dice ipod research & DIY
- best parts supplier by price and availability research
- obnoxious door lock research


 

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#80 ·
Helpppp

My car is acting up when i start it up to warm up. At first the car seems fine, but once the temp gauge reaches between the edge of the blue on the gauge and the first line after, it sounds like it dies, and accelerates over again without touchin the pedal. The car sometimes dies if it is too cold outside and the computer when plugged in told me to replace the double temperature switch coolant temperature switch. I dont know why it is doing this or what that sensor has an effect on the car warming up. HELP ASAP
 
#88 · (Edited)
My car is acting up when i start it up to warm up. At first the car seems fine, but once the temp gauge reaches between the edge of the blue on the gauge and the first line after, it sounds like it dies, and accelerates over again without touchin the pedal. The car sometimes dies if it is too cold outside and the computer when plugged in told me to replace the double temperature switch coolant temperature switch. I dont know why it is doing this or what that sensor has an effect on the car warming up. HELP ASAP
Typical VANOS problem. During the period between blue and vertical keep your left foot on the brake and your right foot on the accelerator and you'll get through this problem time. Yes, it shouldn't be a problem but no, it's not worth fiixing.
 
#81 ·
Spinning Key Syndrome help:

I finished the install of my ignition housing, switch, and tumbler. I am sorry I did not take any photos. The only camera I have is very expensive and I didn't want to risk damaging or dirtying it! But I'll be as detailed as possible.

I had the dreaded spinning key syndrome. I came home from work one day and tried to shut off the car and the key came out, but engine running. After messing around a bit, I figured out how to start the car by inserting my car key, or a flat-bladed screwdriver into the ignition SWITCH which had to be dislocated from the ignition housing. Waive the key by the transponder (The circular plastic ring around the ignition key hole) and you'll hear a little click. This means the car verified the correct key is IN or AROUND the ignition. Proceed to start by turning ignition switch. This was a temporary way for me to drive until I ordered the parts needed.

So after a month of starting my car with a screwdriver, I decided to bite the bullet and take on this repair.

These are the parts I bought, and the prices from Tischer BMW (getbmwparts.com) they apply to my 97 528i 10/97 build. Yours may be different, but not likely if you have an E39. *NOTE: PropellerHead indicates this part is different on some E39s, namely the V8 models with the comfortstart feature* To be safe, plug your vin # in to wherever you purchase from.

32320002723, Ignition Tumbler, $100.78
61326901961, Ignition Switch, $44.12
32301093572, Ignition Housing, $82.32
32311157967, Fracture Bolts (I think $1.50 each or something?) MAKE SURE YOU GET THESE!

The tumbler has to be coded, and you'll need to provide your driver's license and registration to any BMW dealer who orders this part for you. It will fit your key and your key only.

Kudos to Tischer BMW for their outstanding service and lightning fast shipping. It took about 5 days from the time I ordered for the parts to arrive to me all the way in California. Absolutely outstandidng!

Tips/procedures.

Undo negative terminal from battery in trunk by using a 13MM open end wrench. You can use the one in the BMW tool kit. Place a cloth or blanket between the cable and the negative post. You don't want the cable falling back onto the terminal. This is important due to the airbag removal you're about to do. I tried to discharge any remaining electricity by waiting 10 minutes and flicker the interior light switches, headlights, etc. (JUST TO BE SAFE)

Remove steering column trim/panels. Two bolts holding it on, one top one bottom. Remove steering wheel. This is done by unscrewing two T-30 TORX bolts. I used a Torx T30 screwdriver. The bolts are behind the steering wheel, one on the left and right sides. You may want to do this with the car on as you'll need to turn the steering wheel left and right to gain access. DON'T remove all the way with the car on, just break them loose enough so the airbag/cover can be pulled. The bolts are stubborn but with enough force they WILL break lose. Keep trying. They release the airbag/cover which allow you to get to the main 17mm bolt to release the steering wheel.

Don't fully remove the airbag cover just yet! There's 3 wires connecting the radio controls, horn, and of course the airbag. Carefully release all 3 wires. The airbag/cover will come free. Place in a safe area BMW logo pointing down. Just put it far away where animals or other small children won't chew on the wires or anything.

Ok now you'll see your dirty grimy and dusty steering wheel guts. Get a breaker bar or torque wrench and a long 17mm socket. It's better with an extension. Once 17mm bolt is removed the steering wheel will come out. There's cables underneath which attach to the steering wheel. I think two of them. Release them carefully. There's a ribbon cable inside the steering wheel, make sure that does not come out. place wheel in a safe place after removed.

You'll need to remove the blinker/windshield wiper control stalk (one piece) next. It's clipped on both sides of the housing. Just take a screwdriver and firmly tap it. It should come out. I let it hang--couldn't figure out how to remove it. Just be careful not to put any unneeded force on it while it hangs. Also remove the black cable on the back of the housing with a 13mm open end wrench. This is the cable which putting the car in park engages so you can remove your key.

If you ordered all 3 parts you can remove the housing with the old tumbler inside it. NO NEED TO DO THIS UNNECESSARY STEP of removing the damn tumbler with some stupid special "tool" or paperclips, etc. You're going to discard the housing/tumbler as a unit. Toss it.

OK now the ignition switch is held on by two tiny bolts using a flat-bladed precision screwdriver. Point the screwdrivers blade towards the sky under the ignition switch. Two bolts holding these to the ignition housing. There's also a bracket held on by two allen key bolts. This holds the ignition switch to the ignition housing. Remove those two bolts as well and shove it to the side (the bracket).

Ok here's where you'll have to be clever. There's probably TEN billion ways to do this but this worked for me. The FRACTURE/SHEAR bolts. Everyone said this is the hardest part--WRONG. It was actually quite easy. I'll describe the hard part later on.

I took my $40 costco drill and a small bit I bought from home depot, ALONG with a small, sharp chisel I also bought from Home depot and hammered out the bolts. The chisel is the size of a thick pencil. About 7" long. Take your small drill bit and drill an INDENTATION into the shear bolts. Just enough so where you strike it with the chisel it will catch on. This isn't necessary but makes the job easier. Once you engrave two tiny divets into the bolts. Take your chisel, point the corner of it into the bolt and angle your chisel to where if you strike it, the bolt will turn counter-clockwise! It will take a few very hard strikes to bust it loose. I used WD40 to penetrate the bolts about 8-10 minutes prior. This helped a lot. You'll start to see the bolts turn. Then with medium force just consistently tap the bolt. Tap-tap-tap-tap-tap and it will drive out. The bolts are very soft so the chisel digs in nicely. You may not even need to use the drill bit. But I did and it worked. Continue to unscrew the bolts by hand. Toss 'em.

EASY.

Don't pull the housing just yet. A slip ring is preventing the housing from sliding out towards you. Look on the very edge of where the steering wheel mounts. You'll see a ring which looks kind of like a key ring. It almost makes a complete circle... about the size of a nickle. This is holding the housing on. THIS IS THE TOUGH PART.

Here's how I did it.

this will require two hands and concentration. BE CAREFUL not to damage or MAR the steering wheel spline (The part where the steering wheel slips onto!) It's extremely fragile and the slightest impact will mar it, preventing the steering wheel from slipping back on) ask me how I know!

With one hand take your thumb and hold the slip ring firmly into place. With the other take a VERY thin flat bladed screw driver and shove it between the slip ring and twist and push it in. Not much force is needed. You'll see the ring LIFT just enough to slip the screwdriver in near where your thumb is. Remove your thumb from where you were pressing. Hopefully the ring didn't budge and you can stick another screwdriver where that space opened up. Then carefully twist the ring off using your screwdriver. This was a ROYAL pita. ONLY technique which worked for me.

The rest is easy. Various parts and rings slip off. BE CAREFUL to pay attention to which way they go on. Take pics if needed. The housing comes off now. CAREFUL. Don't throw away the housing just yet! There's little parts attached to it including a bearing which you'll need to transfer to the new housing. A bearing and a plastic clip. Pry em off with a screwdriver. Easy.

Take your car key, place it inside your new tumbler. Turn is just enough so you hear a click and the little protruding metal arm on the tumbler goes back in. This will allow you to slip the tumbler into the new housing. Make sure you line the tumbler up correctly with the housing. There's a tiny notch on both pieces to align. Easy. Click in.

OH NOES you can't remove your key? Don't fret. On the back of the housing you'll see a threaded opening. Take a small screwdriver and gently press down on the tab inside the opening. This will release the key. This is what is engaged when you put the car in park as mentioned earlier.

Slip new housing on with all new parts. Install top plate with new shear bolts. Torque em snugly but not enough to shear the heads off. You'll reach the specified torque when the heads shear off. Just don't shear the heads off until you're certain you did everything right. Otherwise you're back and square 1.

Now here's another TIP.

You'll now need to put the snap ring back on. Take your 17mm steering wheel bolt and put it back on the column. Don't tighten it al lthe way. Just thread it a few times.. I did this to pull the steering arm towards me while i put the snap ring back on. You'll see what I mean when you do this. Youll grab onto the 17mm bolt. It works great.


Snap the ring back on in its little groove. Use your screwdriver and start at one end and slowly work around to the other end. PATIENCE.

Install everything back in reverse order.

It now works like new.

Only gripe I have is the part Tischer sent me wasn't manufactured correctly. The area where you attach the ignition housing bracket and associated BIG heavy rubber block (no idea what this is or what it does) was not threaded. So I couldn't put back those two allen bolts. This isn't tichsers fault as they did not make the part. I will call Tischer Monday and see what they can do about this. This means my ignition switch isn't as tight against the housing as it should be. I ziptied it for now.

Sorry for the lengthy write up just trying to be as detailed as possible and help other BMW owners who may have had this problem. If you have an E39 and this hasn't happened to you yet, bookmark this.

Feel free to ask any questions.
 
#83 · (Edited)
Spinning key additional notes

I am doing this exact job right now and just have a couple important things to add to the awesome write up above.

After reading the above instructions I went to work and following the above directions everything came apart like clockwork. The only difference is I took out my tumbler as opposed to getting a new one. How you do it is:

1. Pop off the plastic sensor that surrounds the key by taking a smaller flat blade screwdriver and putting it underneath the wire connector and between the metal lock body and plastic ring. Carefully twist forward till it pops off.
2. Turn the key to the 1 position
3. locate the the tiny hole at the edge of the key slot
4. find a nail that will fit in it but that's not flimsy and about 2.5" to 3" long
5. By hand start pushing the nail into the hole firmly and if you're lined up it should go in at least and inch. If you can't get it that far by hand take out the nail and double check your in position 1 and try again.
6. If it does go a ways in by hand then grab some pliers and firmly push it in harder. At this point take the pliers and grab around the tumbler and pull it out.
The paper clip may work but it's easier with the nail. I also tried using a small allen/hex key but it didn't work for me. They trick is to have it lined up in the 1 position and press the nail in firmly.
Lastly do not take out the nail until you're ready to put the tumbler in the new lock. Once you put it in the new one the ring will lock back in and you can then pull out the nail

The sensor ring just snaps right back on.

Second issue. There is a plastic bracket that surrounds the ignition switch, holds some of the wires and attaches to the steering lock you're replacing. It is held on by 2 #30 torx screws. The old screws did not fit the new steering lock for whatever reason. However I was able to thread in the bottom screw and it seemed like it self tapped.

Third BIG BIG ISSUE.

After I picked up the parts today I excitedly drove the wife's Volvo Wagon home and changed clothes to put it all back together. While getting into the car the new ignition lock fell out of the box and BROKE............ When I say broke I mean the piece that holds the column lock down popped out... So I put it back together and re-assembled it with the ignition switch to see if it was o.k.. Unfortunately it would spin backward if I tried after the key was first put in. I then figured maybe it was a fluke and re-assembled the lock to the column. I even put on the snap ring. This time the key got stuck again........

I promptly called the dealer and ordered another ignition lock which will be here Monday.

DO NOT DROP THE NEW LOCK!!!

Apart from these things I still recommend doing this yourself with the above instructions. Had I had someone else do it or the dealer the labor would have been minimum $300 and as high as $450. The parts with my buddy discount were originally only $180. That is going to now shoot up to $250 but the savings were worth it.

Overall time to do the job had I had the parts on hand would be two hours taking your time.

Pics Below

Cheers!




 
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