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Old 09-22-2009, 12:53 PM
dvsgene dvsgene is offline
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Location: "Empire State" of Mind
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,614
Mein Auto: 98 540i M62 3.15
Great write up as usual CN90! Another one for the archives.

1) Regarding the spring in the strut perch. I don't know if this was coincidence on my springs but I noticed on my OEM sport springs (original) there were dabs of blue paint on each turn of the spring all lined up in the same spot. When I removed my springs and before I used the compressor to remove the springs, the dabs of blue paint were lined up directly with the square notch (cut-out) on the strut perch. When I removed the old Boge and replace with the Bilstein HDs, I simply aligned the dabs of blue paint on the springs with the square notch on the strut perch. Not sure if this was simply coincidence or intentional but it helped me.

2) I didn't find the need to use the special tool that CN90 made (O2 sensor tool) to remove the top bolt. If I recall, you can simply use a 6mm hex key to hold the center spindle while removing the 21mm strut nut with a open end wrench AFTER the whole strut assembly is removed from the car and the spring compressors are put on. All you need to do is remove the top 3 - 13mm nuts holding the whole assembly to the car to get it out from under the fender lip. While I realize the idea is to keep the strut body from turning when it is attached to the car, I simply used a small pipe to hold hex key in place and add leverage to loosen the nut. This is another option and suggestion if you do not have the special O2 sensor tool

3) While my Wheel bearings seemed okay as well, I decided to replace them anyway since the strut assembly was out of the way.

4) I noticed your Bilsteins had blue bellows. Are those the new versions H1 vs H0s? I had to reuse my old ones. Anyone else install HDs and have the bellows included?

5) any comment on the HB tool? My experience with a few of them is that the better ones have a longer reach as the prong tends to slide off as more torque is applied.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Lovell View Post
Jason and Cam,
Am I missing something here.... If the top coil end is snug against the stop in the top perch, and the bottom of the strut is properly aligned with the L-R marking on the strut tube, why should I care where the bottom of the coil ends (4:30 or whatever). I certainly cannot adjust its orientation.
So, it seems to me that I get the top set right, the strut tube mark (L-R) centered in the strut bracket slot and the bottom takes care of itself. Of course getting the rubber perch pads properly set is taken for granted.
Sound about right?

You can adjust orientation if the spring has not been compressed yet. You need to be sure of orientation before compressing the spring and tightening back the top bolt. I think the point is less important on the Bilstein HDs as the bottom of the spring coil fit into the angled spring seat on the strut perch whereas the Boge/Sachs for whatever stupid design reason on the new ones does not sit in the seat. Do you have any dabs of blue or white paint on your springs? They should line up with the square cutout on the spring perch on the HDs which SHOULD put the end of the spring coil almost 90 degrees opposite the cutout.

Last edited by dvsgene; 09-23-2009 at 10:07 AM.
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