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Old 11-09-2009, 05:51 AM
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Evlengr Evlengr is offline
Ukemi - that's how I roll
Location: MD
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 4,252
Mein Auto: 2013 Audi S4 2010 MT MCS
Quote:
Originally Posted by thinset View Post
I've been searching for some advice about upgrading the factory stereo for quite some time and just came across this post.

The plan is to keep the stock head unit, replace the front door speakers and add a sub, both of which will be powered from an Xtant 403a amp that has been gathering dust for way too long. The great thing about the Xtant 403a is that it accepts speaker level/ balanced inputs. Based on what I have read in a few other forums it seems that the factory Business CD puts out a fairly clean line level to the factory amp, so at this point I'm not expecting to add a JL Audio type clean sweep.

Has anyone come across any information for the wiring layout at the factory amp in the rear quarter panel? I plan to tap these plugs for the line level/ signal inputs, and again for the front speaker wiring.

The options presented for the front speakers don't seem too promising, is the main concern mounting depth? Does anyone have any info on the depth available? I've noticed that MB Quart makes a shallow coax that may be the ticket.

Lastly, what is the general consensus on keeping the 8" under the seats powered? Depending on the ohm load, I could wire them in parallel/ series with the fronts. Perhaps replacing these with some shallow Pioneer subs and powering from the amp may be sufficient enough reason to not need a sub box. Not looking for neighborhood waking bass, but certainly cleaning everything up at higher volumes.

Thanks in advance for all the help. I will be photographing the install to help future DIYers as well.
Keep meaning to get speaker wiring layouts brown and yellow comes to mind when I recall using the existing wiring.

The MB quarts will work, but I have my concerns with the front mount and not the depth of these. As it appears that the seperate tweeter in the center of the driver extrudes a bit and may press up against the door grill. I never measured that distance.

Sub under the seat are driven at 2 ohms as opposed to the doors at 4 ohms.

They sound fine powered by a single Alpine amp, but I have never settled on just fine. They lack the bottom end frequency response below 200Hz that gives the nice punch to classical, dance, and rock alike. Not talking about the whump whump that the unknowledgeable use. Also, I recommend NOT using a ported box for your sub. If you want a nice tight punch to the bass this is the way to go, imo.

Hope that answers more than asks questions.

EE
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