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Old 05-08-2010, 05:03 AM
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DHoang DHoang is offline
Gearhead
Location: Austin, Texas
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 982
Mein Auto: '98 528i, '82 323i
THere's another way to do a complete p/s flush w/out even having to turn on the engine. I've done this on several of my Toyos & Lexus autos and imo works better than relying on engine (pump) assist, because you get to control very precisely how much fluid flows out of the system.

PROCEDURE:
Raise the front wheel off ground so you can turn the steering wheel l-r w/out the tires dragging the ground. Then, using a turkey baster or some suction pump, suction out as much old, nasty looking fluid out the reservoir as you can. Then remove the return hose (hose going to radiator) from the reservoir. Expect some fluid to remain inside the reservoir, so have a handfull of used towels beneath to catch/absorb the spill.

Cap off the nipple at the reservoir, because you will be refilling the reservoir w/ fresh fluid, and you want this outlet closed. YOu can use another hose w/ a bolt plugging the end up, or a long length hose w/ its end raised higher up than the opening of the reservoir, or a cap that you found to fit the nippple, any means at your disposal to ensure that this nipple's closed off and not leak will do.

THe hose that's separated from the reservoir canister will spew out the old fluid, so place a catch can (or quart milk jug, 2 liter coke bottle, etc...) over this hose. Now you're set. fill the reservoir all the way to the top. W/out cranking the engine, turn the steering wheel left, then right, then left and as you do so, you'll see the fluid pump out. Maintain steering until fresh clean fluid either comes out the hose or you reach empty on the reservoir, and in this case, refill and repeat. The trick here is not to run the reservoir bone dry, as this will introduce air into the hydraulics. when you're done, reinstall hose, lower car, and clean up.

PS Bluebee:
I buy D4 ATF by the 5 gal buckets as I believe Redline ATF is THE BEST of the best. Redline starts w/ very high quality synthetic base stock, therefore they don't rely on too much improvers to prop up viscosity at 100c temps. Thus their line of synthetics outlasts its competitors even because of how stable their fluids are. But it's rarely, if ever, the heat that kills P/S systems, as p/s systems NEVER reaches 100 deg C for street use. It's contaminants from the pump's gears (as it wears out) and airborn dirt collected under the cap that's gotten past the filter and allowed to cycle repeatedly, chewing out the hydraulic's seals. THe trick is to flush often, and to replace the reservoir b/c the (marginally effective) filter that's in there is non replaceable. Perform the flush every 25k miles, or 2 yrs, and replace the reservoir every 50k miles and or 4-5 yrs and you should never have to replace your p/s rack and/or pump due to premature failure. Now leaky hoses and torn dust boots, well, that's another matter...
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