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Old 07-17-2010, 08:33 AM
TurboEnginerd TurboEnginerd is offline
Why I drive? It moves me!
Location: College Station, TX
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 11
Mein Auto: 2000 BMW 528i sport
Thoughts on the Job

Hey CN, your post on the oil filter housing repair was excellent. I hadn't seen that in all the time I have looked for info on repairing the oil pan gasket, but yesterday, it popped up and you were definitly correct. I had been thinking there is no way I'm going to repair the oil pan gasket, and to just let it leak, but when you run the car clean it all up and inspect the engine, all you see is seepage around the oil pan gasket. I previously went to town on the oil pan gasket with a bunch of commercial gasket maker, and thought... this ought to do the trick, but I was wrong (about the main source of leakage apparently) I do think that would work fairly well, as the oil pan is usually under vacuum, you can simply caulk around the whole thing and get a pretty good seal. It would be a bitch to pull the pan and do a proper replacement, but it works. I have 2 comments about your diy. 1) the bolts on the ps reservoir are 13 mm, not 14. 2) On repairing the 'freeze plugs' I definitly think tapping is the best way to go, but I'm not sure if you came to the same conclusion but I would use a gasket maker, not caulk. Caulk is not rated for high temps, and I'm certain roofing caulk would break down after some time. I like loctite instant gasket. It is thicker and silicon based, as opposed to the small clearance gasket makers. I have a later M52, and have the tapped holes. They had not leaked at all. 3) I noticed some 'etching' on the mating surfaces of the gasket, but didn't do anything about them. I was hoping that they would seal well with the new gasket, which was so much softer. 4) as far as diagnostics, the important thing to note is that if you lift the car, clean everything really well, and and wait, you will not see any dripping if it is the oil filter housing. If you then turn your car on, and run it in neutral at about 2000 rpm for about a minute, you will instantly see dripping around the upper side of the pan where that gasket sits. I hadn't ever run the engine while I was down there, which is why I mistook the location of the leak. 5) I have already pulled my clutch nut, but I found a trick that worked really well the first time. This time, it was not nearly so tight, so it came off easily, but I made a tool the first time that saved my tail. It was a foot long bar, about an 1/8 by 5/8 cross, with a 1/2" hole drilled in 1 end right next to the side wall. practically touching it. you can use this to slip the hole onto one of the nuts on the wp pulley and apply leverage on the next nut. I could send you a diagram if this makes no sense, which it might. Then you can apply torque to the clutch with another wrench without having the belt rotate. The first time I did it, I wasn't able to turn the clutch hard enough without having the belt slip. This time it was not a problem. Anyway, great writeup. I'll buy you a beer of your choice, hell two even, if your ever in college station. It really looked like it came from the oil pan housing. After pulling all of that off, there is no wonder why it leaked with all of the stuff bolted on there. There is the Alternator, Oil pump, belt tensioner, and oil filter cap that all apply tremendous amounts of torque to the housing. But I guess it did pretty well considering all that. Have you had any problems with the display on your radio. I have had some of my lcd panels go out and I'm wondering if there is any point in trying to fix that. Well, it was a pleasure working with your instructions yesterday, it got me through the job. I had already pulled out the tensioner, so I had done some of that easy enough, this was just a couple more things. Thanks

Jason
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