12-17-2010, 11:42 AM
Location: SW Florida
Join Date: Apr 2002
Mein Auto: ///Motorized Vehicles
The studs in the cylinder will come out pretty easy; this, and replacing the studs and nuts has already been covered ^
Originally Posted by markobb
Realy, im thinking that is very litle place to unscrew screws, and than its possible that screws are rusted becouse water and high temperatures.
Does anybody have step by step guide to do this replacing?
For (MUCH) greater access, I remove the sheetmetal barrier around the electrical box. This takes about 10-15 minutes to do (and a similar amount of time to replace) but it is well worth the trouble. Don't get me wrong, you'll still have scraped up arms, but at least you'll be able to get your arm in there.
Of all the sets I've replaced, and the times they needed to come off so the head could be pulled, only once (1) was the engine out of the car.
I don't do write ups, I'll refer you to the BMW TIS (workshop manual) and pictures; you're either capable and willing to try, or you aren't.
These are pictures of a 2.8 (Coupe) that had to have the head come off; yours should be nearly identical:
This shows access with sheetmetal barrier removed; manifolds still in place
The car's owner, Bill, removing head bolts
Plenty of room now!
Spot-facing the sealing surface for #5 sparkplug (!)
Bob: you can do this. The TMS Shorty Headers fit very well, and only a couple of the nuts (1 in particular) is a pain to get started. If I was in Florida...
1957 Austin-Healey 100/6 Wine Red
1961 McCulloch R1 go-kart Screaming Yellow
1995///M3 Coupe Dakar Yellow Eurosport Twinscrew S/C
1999///M Rdstr Cosmos Black Eurosport Twinscrew S/C
1999///M Coupe Estoril Blue Eurosport Twinscrew S/C
2001///M Rdstr Steel Gray
2011 X5 35i Sport Deep Sea Blue/Cinnamon