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Old 04-10-2011, 06:12 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
Join Date: Mar 2008
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
Originally Posted by microswitch View Post
My '02 525i ... I'm about 95K ...How in the word do you get to the fan to remove the bolts?
I have the same car, and my cooling system blew at the same number of miles.

Here are your instructions for removal of fan shroud in a 2002 BMW 525i

- Raise the E39 with a jack and put on jack stands (or ramps)
- Remove the under-engine shroud pan (nine #2 Phillips one-twist bolts)
- Draw the hose sequence or snap photos of the underside shroud hose routing.
- Protect your eyes from falling dust with goggles (I didn't and wished I did).
- Locate the auxiliary pump at the bottom driver-side corner of the shroud.
- Disconnect the press-pull auxiliary coolant pump electrical connector
- Slide the auxiliary pump toward the center of the radiator out of the
fan shroud sleeve by lining up the hose in the clamp and tugging gently
- Disconnect both coolant hoses from the fan shroud bottom
- They are held on with two dual-hose clips five single-hose clips, four
of which are on the bottom of the radiator, and one is on the driver's
side about half way up the shroud on the engine side.
- From above, follow the wire out of the auxiliary water pump to the
AUC (stink) sensor on the driver's side in front of the alternator
just under the upper radiator hose elbow.
- Press the plastic clip on the stink sensor connector and pull up to
remove the AUC sensor from the fan shroud.
- Remove the diabolically German 2-inch by 3-inch AUC sensor housing
by wiggling and coercing it, mostly pushing up from the bottom of
the AUC sensor housing and pulling the top of the AUC sensor housing
away from the shroud. Then, once it's a bit loose, switch directions
of force by pushing down on the AUC sensor housing, pulling the bottom
of the AUC sensor housing away from the shroud. You have to just do it.
- With a 3/16th flathead screwdriver pry out (only) the (center)
plastic rivet pin on the driver's side of the shroud near the upper
hose until you can get needle nose pliers on it to pull that center
pin out. Then pry out the base surrounding the center pin.
- Likewise, remove the rivet to the side of the expansion tank.
- Temporarily remove the expansion tank filler cap.
- With two screwdrivers, pry up the escutcheon around the bleeder screw
next to the expansion tank filler cap and remove the escutcheon.
- Replace the expansion tank filler cap.
- Study how the M-shaped rubber seal at the top of the fan shroud sits.
- Pull up on the two-foot long M-shaped seal at the top of the fan shroud.
- Lift the fan shroud up and to the rear of the car; you'll get about 4
inches of room to see the small hose that goes across from the expansion
tank to a nipple on the drivers side.
- BE VERY CAREFUL IN THE NEXT STEP (I broke the nipple right off!)
- Next to the nipple on the driver's side, pry open the original clamp
so that you can remove the hose (I think it's better to dremel it off
because I busted it with very little pressure exerted).
- Remove the fan clutch nut (see separate instructions) with 32mm fan
clutch nut wrench and 48-mm hole spacing fan hub bolt counterhold tool.
- Lift fan shroud and pull fan out toward driver tilting and wiggling
as necessary to get the fan out of the shroud; it will come out aiming
at the driver's steering wheel.
- Beisan says to remove the fan shroud from the engine bay at this point
but I don't see how you can with the expansion tank, it's three hoses,
and the electrical connector on the bottom still connected to the
expansion tank.
- Temporarily remove expansion tank bleed screw with a P3 Phillips
- Dislodge the expansion tank from the fan shroud by pulling up and
toward the windshield to dislodge the two hoses at the bottom from
the fan shroud.
- Replace the bleed screw with a P3 Phillips screwdriver.
- Pull the drivers side of the fan shroud up and at the same time pull
the bottom hoses of the expansion tank away from the fan shroud.
- Pull the upper expansion tank house through the tunnel in the
fan so that it is not impeding removal of the fan shroud
- Finally, remove the shroud from the engine bay, leaving the expansion
tank still connected to the car.
- Disconnect the frail-looking electrical connector from the bottom of
the expansion tank.
- The Beisans say to place the expansion tank at a high location in the
engine bay but that only made my broken nipple leak more so I put it
at about the same level it was prior.
- As per the Beisans, I tried to keep the expansion tank overflow hose
high to keep coolant from draining out but whenever I raised the expansion
tank, coolant drained out of the broken nipple on the radiator anyway.
Eventually, while I was working on putting the fan on the water
pump, the expansion tank fell to the floor with a full thud, and
I had to jam a branch of wood from my plants into the broken nipple
end on the end of the hose to stave the bleeding mess.
- At this point, the fan is off, the shroud is off, and the expansion
tank is connected but lying on the ground.
- I have access now to the water pump bolt!
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