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Old 04-28-2011, 10:19 AM
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Jason5driver Jason5driver is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Middle of a corn field
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 4,464
Mein Auto: E39 hamster w/ pin-wheel
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jared@EACTuning View Post
What did you cut it with?

As a general statement, everyone please remember that any sealant used must go somewhere. Too much in the wrong place can mean it will be squeezed into your engine. It can harden in oil passages or chunks may be circulated until they get stuck in a passage. Sealant is awesome, but use it correctly.

I'd highly recommend everyone try a product call RedHead gasket shellac. Awesome stuf.
Thanks!
I will look into that Redhead...
LOL!


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mudbone View Post
I used aviation snips and then deburred with a file.

It has been nearly a month now and still NO LEAKS!
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
As Jared pointed out, using RTV correctly is the key.
- Also let it sit according to the instructions in the RTV package, usually 1-2h of curing before installing things back.

Back to this topic by Mudbone, all people need is a bead of RTV slightly smaller than toothpaste on the toothbrush. If you can achieve a thickness slightly thicker than the gasket itself, you are good to go.
Good info.

I might have an oil pan gasket leak, I might not.
I need to clean the underside of the car, a lot...
I am very suspicious of the oil filter housing gasket, and or a valve cover gasket leak...

However, I do need to lower the sub-frame any ways, in order to install the new Eibach front sway bar.

If I do replace the oil pan gasket, I will more than likely drop the sub-frame, and the oil pan, and replace with new pan bolts and a gasket, similar to the ATF replacement...
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Last edited by Jason5driver; 04-28-2011 at 10:21 AM.
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