The existing sub look like they might be 8 inch until you turn them over, cheating swines.
The EarthQuakes drop right in with no modifications. Note no plastic ridges where the SWS need to sit.
Clearance for cone extension might be an issue but as I will driving them from 50W RMS only I doubt the cone will extend the 1.25 inch required to hit the metal supports over the cavity - and I doubt I am even hitting them with 50W. With what I can get out of them in the current un-tuned state - there is really no need for any other subs - but personal taste I guess.
I fabricated a timber mount for the AMP that bolts down using the trailer light module lugs. The cut outs are to give and much free air as possible for cooling in such a confined space.
The speaker wiring is not heavy duty - but again - 50w RMS is all I am using.
The FOCAL does not have a subsonic filter just a selectable high pass or low pass or all range switch and the cutoff adjustment for m50 to 150 Hz. I am running low pass at 150Hz at present. I selected the focal as I am running high level input and auto switch on using the high level input - less wiring to run.
Evlengr, I would like to play with a sound processor but as I am using high level inputs I suspect I have little scope here. If you have any recommendations that will using high level inputs please advise.
Deafwish, I am using the stock cavity - I have not blocked the ports . . . yet.
To do. Will probably end up running the AMP in all pass and using it to drive the subs via a 600mH inductor and the front doors speakers via the stock in line capacitor leaving the rears running from the existing head unit.
For those considering it - there is really no need to upgrade the rear door speakers if you have the stock business CD - save some money. The wiring in the car means that the subs are in parallel with the front speakers only so to get any base in the stock system you will running with the fader set to front most of the time anyway. ie rear doors speakers on low level for "fill" only.