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Old 06-08-2012, 08:33 AM
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Jason5driver Jason5driver is offline
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Location: Middle of a corn field
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 4,479
Mein Auto: E39 hamster w/ pin-wheel
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fudman View Post
I believe your diagram is correct.

If you look at the Real.OEM diagram, yes, the "tank" (oil sump) is just a container for the oil.
And yes, the holes should not really matter.
I believe a more effective solution would be to cut the outer section of piping (the portion that Johnstern drilled into) below the connection interface to the oil sump.

That would eliminate the risk of drilling debris from clogging the pathway.
It would also increase the "area" for the CCV drainage to flow through, below the connection interface.
However, it would not correct the limited flow through cross sectional area that still exists
at the connection interface.
Hence, the improved dipstick tube is the best solution, especially for those in cold weather areas that drive short distances on cold engines.

+1.
I agree.
By drilling out, or removing that inner tubing at the dipstick tube base, you are essentially creating the cold-weather oil dipstick tube.

I think there is a problem where the small tube connects to the oil dipstick tube base.

If you can drill-out the inner tubing, and provide a clear path for the small tube to drain, then I think you are set...

For the $130 price, it is well worth NOT having to redo a CCV replacement ( a HUGE PITA).
I did mine 2.5 years ago and may need to redo this again.
This time I will buy the new dipstick.




Quote:
Originally Posted by johnstern View Post
+1

Thanks Fudman for answering Bluebee's questions.
I have not been able to get back to this forum until now.

Please note that I drilled the holes through the outer AND inner layers of the dipstick tube.
Interesting...
Was it hard drilling-out the inner tubing?
Pictures?

Thanks!
Jason
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