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Old 06-08-2012, 09:54 AM
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Jason5driver Jason5driver is offline
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Mein Auto: E39 hamster w/ pin-wheel
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
I had wondered about that, even after having looked at the very nice picture set.

For each hole, did you drill straight through all (4) layers of steel?
Or did you just drill the outer (2) layers of steel on each drill pass?

Thanks. The only thing I can 'think' of then as to 'why' BMW designed the concentric tubes in the first place, is that (perhaps) they didn't want the oil gunk condensing from the CCV vent to deposit uglies on the dipstick itself. That would 'look' bad when the dipstick is pulled out for inspection.

I can't think of any other reason for the expensive and problematic concentric tubes, other than to keep condensed oil away from the dipstick itself.

Thanks. I realize these answers may be obvious to you, but I'm struggling with the 'why' of the concentric-tube design.
It baffles me why they went to a huge expense to design a tube within a tube just so that the dipstick wouldn't get oil on it.
I'm looking for the 'catch' in the redesigns ... the thing we may have missed.

This makes sense.
Eliminate the entire outer tube, if possible, at least where it can be eliminated and still have a mechanical fit.

I wonder if we can simply grind (or cut) the outer tube entirely away (leaving only portions needed for mechanical integrity & for the tight fit into the oil tank hole).

In fact, that little-tube-to-big-tube connection was jammed solid for me (right at the curve where the steel ccv vent connects to the steel outer dipstick guide tube) when I tried digging down from the ccv vent side.

What I absolutely hate is giving a $130 (times hundreds of thousands of BMWs) to the very same people who designed the abomination in the first place. It's rewarding BMW for failure. For example, I'd prefer to buy a Toyota dipstick guide tube (were it a fit) over a BMW-supplied "improved" dipstick guide tube ... just on principle (if it worked).

Since mine is not redesigned nor modified...
How long would you think I have before mine becomes clogged?

Since nobody probably has that data (depends on weather & driving style) ...
May I ask whether the standard CCV tests can determine if your dipstick is clogged?

Since mine was clogged and I didn't know it, I'm sure thousands of others are clogged.

Q: What's the best (easiest) TEST of a clogged dipstick guide CCV vent tube?
1. I think you are completely correct (see bold above) about BMW trying route the condensed oil along the outer tube, to keep that oil/ moisture-water/ yellow gunked oil AWAY from the dipstick itself.

However, by running water filled oil along to outside perimeter of the oil dipstick tube, you run the risk of freezing, thus, creating a clog...

Ever wonder why you hear more about CCV failures in the winter time....?

2. If you have a clog at the small CCV tube-to-dipstick-tube-base intersection, you might try heat/ propane to loosen things up...
This is the reason why my mechanic came up with the solution to drilling out that connection completely, to insure the CCV will be able to drain.

3. It is not whether you think your oil dipstick tube is clogged, but how to keep it from clogging-ever (permanent solution).

4. I agree that it is extremely wrong for BMW to rake in money/ sucker people with their defective design.

5. The easiest way to see if the oil dipstick tube is clogged is to completely remove it, inspect it, try blowing compressed air through it, try draining cleaner through it, etc....
However, like I posted, it is best to make a permanent fix first, that way you do not need to constant check on the d@mn thing, just waiting for it to break/ cause problems.


Last edited by Jason5driver; 06-08-2012 at 09:59 AM.
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