This post is for informational purposes ONLY.
OG post by Stealth
a very interesting collection of ideas gathered from various sources and from
people that had emissions challenged vehicles but found ways to pass the test ...
emissions components which may be inspected by officials for proper operation:
EGR Valve, Air Pump, Charcoal Canister, EVAP System, Smog Pump, Oxygen Sensor, Intake Manifold, Exhaust Manifold, Fuel Pump, Turbo, Supercharger, Header, Camshaft, Fuel Filter, Air Filer, Oil Filter, Carburetor, Fuel Injector, Preheat Tube, Air Injection, Check Valve, Muffler, Solenoid, Fuel Mixture Solenoid, Catalytic Converter, CAT, Heat Riser, OBD II System, On Board Diagnostics Computer and Vacuum Lines.
GUMOUT, Emissions Reducer, 12 oz bottle
"at the pump pour the bottle then fill tank .. in this initila tank, emissions may increase as Gumout works to remove deposits and expel via the exhaust .. ran until tank is near empty .. refill tank .. do not perform emissions test until 2nd or third tank where the emissions benefits will show ....."
make sure your gas tank is only 1/4 to 1/2 full and put 1/2 the bottle of methyl hydrate (fondue fuel) in the tank
Pour pure (90%+) isopropyl alcohol into your fuel tank, it will help to clean up your exhaust emmissions and get your car through the smog tests that most states currently use. Use two 16oz bottles for ten gallons of premium fuel.
pour two litres of methyl hydrate into 1/2 tank of fuel
pour two quarts of pure denatured alcohol into 1/4 tank of fuel
disconnect the harness from one injector. The engine will only run on 7 cylinders, but it will pump one cylinder worth of air into the exhaust on every cycle, which serves to dilute the mixture from the other cylinders.
Change oil and leave it a quart low. New oil seals better and low level minimizes the chance of splash onto the cylinder walls. Burnt oil is another source of HC.
clean the engine. Burnt oil is another source of HC.
Change the engine oil just before you go to test. Fresh 20/50 seals better than any oil with 50 or more miles on it. The idea is to reduce hydrocarbons (HC),
leave the tank half full or less. The evap system can be overloaded with a full tank, increasing HC.
Bring it in real hot from a highway run. The O2 and cat work best when hot and the throttle body is heated by engine coolant, pre-heating intake air.
Drive it on the freeway for about 10 miles before you go to the test in order to be sure that the engine is at full operating temperature
put in the highest octane gas you can find, change the oil, and retard the timing slightly (3 deg).
Just before the smog test fill up with good winter "Arizona" gas. i.e. unoxgenated gas with enough volatility to easily ignite. ("Winter Gas" is more volatile then "Summer Gas".)
Retard the ignition timing about 3 degrees to help reduce the NOX emissions.
take out air filter
Use a low-restriction air cleaner set. Hellings has one about 1/2" thick with metal wire for a filtering medium. It will only filter out large rocks, but it flows very freely.
Run the fuel tank down as far as possible and refill it just before the test. Fuel has a â€***732;half-life' and it does not burn as well if it has been in the tank for 90 days or more
Put in a new set of spark plugs, gapped.
Convert from carbon core ignition wires to the solid core (metal) type.
Capped off PCV connection to manifold
make sure the tires are inflated to MAX for the dyno test.
fuel cap sealing correctly
blowby/crankcase fumes being re-ingested through the air cleaner and throwing the tailpipe readings way off. reroute the crankcase fumes out of the compartment via a "road draft tube"
California now requires all vehicles 1996 and up, to communicate directly with the smog machine during the smog test. This is achieved via your vehicle's OBDII Data Link Connecter. As part of the smog inspection process, the smog technician will connect a Data Cable from the smog machine to your vehicle's OBDII Data Link Plug. This cable will deliver important "Check Engine" codes and "Readiness Flags" from the engine's computer system to the state's smog machine. Emissions related failure codes will cause your vehicle to fail the smog inspection. The failure codes will be printed on the Vehicle Inspection Report (VIR) which will be given to you by the smog station.
IF your CA car is required to go to a TEST-ONLY Station, and it fails, and your car qualifies, you must pay for the 1st $100 of diag and repairs with the State paying the next $500. To qualify, the car has to be yours, not in the process of being sold, a CA car, and it should be unmodified.
If you are low income, then you only have to pay the 1st $20.
Emissions SMOG test coming up?
precautions i used to help a pass on my car ...
1. wrapped the cats with alum shields to keep them insulated and HOT ..
2. retarded ignition from spec by 3 degrees more...
3. ran a can of Prestone "Emissions reducer" per directions ...
3a. Cleaned the Throttle intake
4. inspected plugs, gapped to spec ...
5. inspected exh headers, gaskets, vac lines for proper conditions ...
6. ran the gas tank to near empty, added 4 gall of highest octane fuel (about 1/4 tank) AND
added 1or 2 qal of PURE choosen "Alternative Fuel additive" .. WOOOOOO .. THAT is a kick ...
7. drained and filled crankcase with FRESH heavy 40W oil & STP, BUT kept it one quart low to avoid "splashing" ...
8. drive wheel tire pressure set at rated tire max psi ...
9. "pulled" connector from A/C compressor ...
10. removed air filter
11. ran 10 miles on the FWY and kept engine running while waiting its turn for the test .. 20 min ...
she passed, well under the limits in every measured item including the high speed dyno test ..
she rans so clean you can sit behind the dual pipes and not smell anything ..
"Alternative Fuel - Methanol, denatured ethanol, and other alcohols; mixtures containing 85% or more by volume of methanol, denatured ethanol, and other alcohols with gasoline or other fuels; natural gas; liquefied petroleum gas; hydrogen; coal-derived liquid fuels; non-alcohol fuels (such as biodiesel) derived from biological material; and electricity. 'P-Series' fuels were added to this list since the original definition in EPAct. "
hardware stores like home depot sell "denatured alcohol" by the gallon can.. that is what i used.
none of this is a recomendation and it is only provided as a "report" of how my car passed.
Originally Posted by cj.surr
I don't have to read the username on these posts to know who wrote it.
Bmw-Mania, Ladies and Gentlemen.