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Old 06-24-2012, 10:21 AM
JayMac JayMac is offline
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Location: Virignia
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 756
Mein Auto: what ever starts
Okay, almost done. So here is what I did. I installed a Euro housing that I picked up on ebay. If you have the metal housing I would get the adapter top that costs about $250 and go that way. Since I had to get a housing regardless this was the way I went.

I also removed my aux fan. If you are street driving i would recommend you keep your fan and skip the cooler. Since I only drive highway with this car the aux fan can go. I do have a SPAL hardwired in the event I would get stuck in traffic but I go old school and shut off the AC if necessary.

I went with an 8 x 11 cooler because I liked it's 1.5 width and was not sure it I would keep the fan. It was the thinnest cooler I could find. I thought it might be too big but better too big than too small. Euro housing has a thermostat so bigger was fine. I bought it off of ebay from one of those used NASCAR liquidation outfits. It came with size 8 AN fittings so I used ans adapter to expand them to the AN 10 that the oil cooler line adapter has. You can get this from VAC or Bimmerworld. Again the Housing top cooler adapter allows you some better flexibility but since the fitting were on the cooler so tight that I could not get them off unless I destroyed the cooler. Adapters from 8 to 10. I flushed the cooler 3 times with brake cleaner and then 20 wt oil.



Another thing I liked about these type of coolers were the side material used for mounting. You can drill holes anywhere you need to. If you look closely at the cooler you can see what I used to mount it to the frame. Metal insulated hose/wire hangers. The loop goes arounf the frame and the tab is bolted to the cooler. By facing the loop of the hanger towards the radiator you get a flat surface to mount on and a little insulation from vibration, not that any is needed. That takes care of the top.

AS for the bottom it is real simple. Zip ties. The cooler is relatively light and if you look inside engine bays at various track you would be amazed at what you see and how people secure various items. I also wanted to be able to remove this in the event it ever leaks so easy is better.


I know someone will look at this and worry about the cooler cutting the tie. A 9 inch piece of rubber fuel line is taped to the bottom rail. It provides a cushion and you have the top and bottom mounted on rubber.



I ran one line over the frame rail and around where the air intake is and the other underneath because of mounting the cooler on it's side. The oil flows in from the bottom of the cooler.
Since this is test fitting I only put the ends on the single piece of line and will cut to length and install the fittings on the other end when everything is getting bolted up. This way I will be cutting the piec out of the middle and have a nice section of hose left over if I need it later.

If the cooler ever needs to be removed you just put the caps on at the housing and you are good to go. Push lock ends are real nice if you don't' need the bling factor. I am not sure if I posted this but if you soak the hose end in a parts cleaner for a few minutes they push right on. I used GUNK and then rinsed them with water and let then dry .
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