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Old 09-13-2012, 08:25 PM
smayo964 smayo964 is offline
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: MS
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 195
Mein Auto: 1999 Z3 Roadster
I FOUND IT!!!!! I FOUND IT!!! The U-joint behind the carrier bearing was about locked on one side. The carrier bearing itself was ok, but to loose from the mileage. I replace the bearing and U-joint. It was like releasing the emergency brake and letting the car go free again. The drive train is definitely quieter and I can just about idle out the clutch and get the car rolling vs. having to bump the throttle previously.

For those who say you have replace the driveshaft, I removed the existing U-joint and replaced it with a NEAPCO 1-0431 (.947dia at the cap). $24.88 shipped. This is replacement for earlier BMWs and Saabs. The U-joint is about 1/4" longer over the caps and the ends lined up flush with the yoke and shaft castings. I used (2) 3/16" dia by 1/16" tall tack welds on each cap (180 deg apart) to keep them anchored it. Focused the weld bead mainly on the casting and not the cap. Just enough overlap to keep the groove obstructed. Must quench the weld zone immediately after welding to keep from any boiling of the needle bearing grease, etc. The joint also has a grease fitting so I lubed it up well.

I believe the hardest part of the job was getting the exhaust back in by myself. LOL Any, if the rear one goes out, I'll do it again. Just thought I'd offer what inexpensive fix worked for me.
S. Maykowski, Columbus MS.
My '99 Z3 Alpine White 2.8L Speed Buggy
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