Even my indy had it wrong the first try. And he does this repair very frequent. Everything worked, except the outside handle. Had to bring the car back, and he fixed it then.
the issue I could see, is the fact that one cannot see a darn thing inside the door, where you have to release the cables and re-install after the repair. And this has to be done with the door locking mechanism almost in place. You have very little wiggle room (assuming you placed it correctly). Then, once in place, you have to make sure that none of the cables did let go. There are 3 things that have to sit correctly: cable that goes to the inside pull lever. Cable that goes to the outside door handle. Rod that has the lock/unlock button on top - inside of the car.
Whole assembly has to be installed in the correct position for the lock to latch properly, otherwise some minor adjustments are needed.
Ideally you want to check this out with the panel off, the problem is you have the airbag in the door. If you have a scanner that can reset airbag codes, it's no problem, you can do it. If not, you have to install the airbag and replace the battery and start trial & error until the door latches properly (taking off & on the airbag as required).
You could get lucky from the 1st try - the outside screws leave marks. Not sure how big the wiggle room is in the holes of the door lock itself that's behind the screws? That one holds the locking mechanism to the door striker. And that one has to be centred.
Looking for a DIY? Parts? Check this out, it might be your ticket
TMS underdrive pullies - Stewart WP - PSS9 - Beisan Vanos seals - Zimmerman cross-drilled & Akebono Euro - Deka 649 MF - 55w HID headlights - 35w HID foglights - Hualigan double din - ACS (rep) alu pedals - Euro central storage console - Breyton Magic Racing staggered wheels - M5 bumper - M5 steering wheel - Tint
Stable: e39, e53, e46 & Tribby