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Old 11-01-2012, 03:32 PM
jared_wiesner jared_wiesner is offline
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Location: Brantford, Ontario, Canada
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 75
Mein Auto: 1999 328i, 1967 Skylark,
35. Support the exhaust cam sprocket as you remove the exhaust cam helix cup in the same way as you did the intake.
(Once the cup is removed the exhaust sprocket will try to fall forward. You want to remove the both sprockets and secondary timing chain together as an assembly, so preview the next step to see how the chain/sprocket assembly will be removed. Remove the cup, then the chain/sprocket assembly.)



36. Remove the chain sprocket assembly be grabbing both sprockets out the outside edges and pulling straight towards yourself.



37. Depending on how you grasped the exhaust sprocket in the previous step, you may have already removed this part. If not, remove the exhaust sprocket helix flange.



38. Using a 10mm socket, remove the three top and one side bolt securing the secondary timing chain tensioner.



Note from German Auto Solutions website regarding the next step, cam removal:

Important! Read this before using these instructions!

The camshafts in the BMW M54 & M52-tu engines are lightweight hollow castings that can brake in half during removal or re-installation if the proper procedure is not followed. This DIY procedure is a safe way to remove and re-install your camshafts without the need for special BMW factory tools.

There are other camshaft removal procedures that involve setting the camshaft rotation so that one set of lobes is placed in the maximum valve opening position, this leaves the other 5 sets in a position where the valves are closed and no pressure is exerted on their lifters.

There are three potential problems with that procedure:

1) The camshaft needs to be held from rotating with a wrench in one hand, while loosening the cap nuts with a ratchet in the other hand.

2) The nuts on the cap will run out of threads before the pressure is fully released from the cam lobes and lifters. This means that the camshaft will snap free, possibly causing the cam cap and nuts can go flying, once the nuts are completely loose.

3) The cam cannot be re-installed using that procedure because you cannot install the cap with 1 set of lobes in the fully open position, the threads on the journal studs are not long enough.

Our procedure involves positioning the cams so that 2 sets of lobes are set to a 30% open position and the other 4 sets are fully closed. This procedure is a little bit more time consuming, but is a safer, more controlled way of removing the cams.

Cam Removal

39. Your starting point point should be:

-All VANOS sprockets, secondary chain & guides removed.
-Crankshaft at Top Dead Center (TDC) mark.
-Cams set to proper VANOS timing position.

40. Begin by removing your cam timing blocks and TDC lock pin.

41. Rotate the crankshaft counterclockwise approximately 45 degrees from the TDC mark as shown in the picture. (I marked TDC mark on balancer with a marker) This will position all the pistons at a safe distance from the valves, and will prevent any possibility accidentally bending a valve during the procedure



42. Hold exhaust cam at center hex portion with a 24mm wrench and remove 3 exhaust cam sprocket bolts with an 11mm deep socket.





43. Pull exhaust cam sprocket towards yourself and angle exhaust sprocket and chain and pull on chain/pull down on sprocket until you can slip chain off of the sprocket and remove the sprocket. (Be sure you do not drop chain down into engine, loop it temporarily over the end of the cam spline to hold it while you get ready to do the next step. )

44. Secure primary timing chain to stud behind where the secondary chain tensioner was mounted to prevent chain from dropping down inside engine.



45. Rotate exhaust cam using the same 24mm wrench on the hex portion at the center of the exhaust cam until the block at the rear of the cam matches the picture below. Do not rotate more than the approximately 40 degrees shown.



46. We are now going to take the positioning one step further than what is really necessary. This is just an added margin of safety to prevent the cam from trying to reposition itself while it's being loosened.
Compare the height of the valve lifters at journals A3 and A5. You may need to use a penlight to see well enough. Rotate the cam a little back and forth until the lifters at A3 & A5 are both at the same height relative to the top of their bores. This sets the cam so that there is equal pressure on the both sets lobes.



47. You can now remove the journal cap nuts from all caps except A3 and A5. DO NOT start to loosen caps A3 or A5 yet. Remove all journal caps except A3, A5 and A1 (Remove nuts from A1, but leave cap sitting on cam). as shown.
A3 and A5 are the only journals that are carrying any load with the camshaft in this position. It's 100% safe to remove the other caps.



45. You will be loosening the caps at A3 and A5 in 1/4 turn (90 degree) increments. They will be loosened in the order shown. Do not start to loosen them yet. Using an 11mm socket and ratchet, loosen the nuts in 1/4 turn increments in the order shown in the previous picture. I'm sorry if I'm stating the obvious, but the easiest way to verify how much you are turning, is to start with the ratchet in a horizontal position and rotate until it's vertical, or the other way around. While losening, use the cap you left on A1 and use it to compare the gaps at A3 and A5 to make sure cam is lifting universally.



46. Continue loosening the nuts at A3 and A5 in 1/4 turn increments until they are completely loose. After you've completed two complete revolutions of each nut you can bump up to 1/2 turn increments if you wish.
Remember to keep comparing the A3 and A5 cap gaps to the A1 gap as you go. If the A1 cap does not rise equally each time you loosen the nuts at A3 and A5, stop and find out why.

47. Remove nuts, caps, and exhaust cam.

48. Follow the exact same steps for the intake cam. This time, rotate the intake cam to the left 40 degrees (when looking at engine from front of car) so that rear block on cam is at an approximately 40 degree angle with the holes on the left side of peak (when looking to the back from the front of engine)



49. Inspect cam journals/caps E4 and E6. ensure they are at the same height relative to their bores.

50. Remove all caps and nuts except E4, E6, and E1 (Remove nuts from E1 but leave cap in place)

51. Loosen caps at journals E4 and E6 in 1/4 turns and watch cap E1 to make sure cam is lifting evenly.



52. Again, once you have loosened the caps a few quarter turns, you can start doing half turns until you are able to remove the caps.

53. Remove the caps and the intake cam.

54. The cams are now removed and new ones can be installed.

55. The Schrick intake cam I am installing needs to have the cam position sensor piece installed from the old cam shaft onto it.



56. As you can see, the new shrick cams do not have the handy holes on the one surface of the blocks at the ends to reference cam posistion. However they still retain the marker for the cam in this case 'E' (Intake Cam) on the same side as the block that would have the holes. The exhaust cam is marked the same way except with an'A'. Just remember that the letters go along with the flat part of the block that would have holes in it.



57. To remove cam position sensor piece from old cam and transfer it to a new one, place the two intake cams side by side on a flat surface. Position the cams so that the 'E' on both is facing up. Check that the lobes are all facing the same way on both intake cams. Undo the 3 bolts holding the position sensor piece onto the old cam. You may have to hold the wrench at the center point with the same 24mm wrench to keep it from turning.



58. Remove both peices from old cam while mainting orientation and place them onto new cam. Alternatingly tighten them until they are snug. Grip cam with wrench and snug them up to aproximately how tight they were on the old cam.

59. It's recommended that before you begin make sure you have a quality brand of engine assembly lube on hand. Make sure that the assembly lube is specifically designed for use on cams and lifters. You then apply a dab of assembly lube to all lifter faces and cam journal bearings.



60. I personally am installing a used cam on used lifters. I know that at work when the guys are installing used cams they simply use engine oil and not assembly lube. (I work at a Toyota Dealership). I just used regular synthetic oil to grease up my old cams.

61. Lay both your exhaust and intake cams in their positions on cylinder head.



62. Rotate your exhaust cam to the pictured rotation for installation. (Flat surface shown would be the surface with holes/ side marked with letters



63. Put journal caps A1, A3, and A5, in position and put their nuts onto the studs and start each nut one rotation by hand.
You may need to push the cam down slightly to get them started and if your really having trouble, you can turn one of the sets you get started by hand a quarter turn with a wrench to push the cam low enough to get the rest started by hand.



64. Adjust the finger tightening of all the hex nuts on the caps to make the gaps even on both sides of the caps and between all caps even.

65. You will be tightening the 4 nuts at A3 and A5 in 1/4 turn (90 degree) increments in the order shown. The 2 nuts at A1 will be tightened each time, finger tight, after tightening A3 and A5 with a ratchet. Just like during the removal process, we are using the cap at A1 to verify the flatness of the cam as we tighten it down. The goal is to keep an eye on both sides of all 3 caps, and adjust your tightening slightly as you go to keep all gaps equal.

The reason we finger tighten the cap at A1, instead of just setting the cap in place and watching it, is to make sure that the cam does not bind up on the thrust flanges as it enters the bearing. Finger tightening allows enough force to pull the thrust flanges into place, but does not unevenly load the cam (at that end) like wrench tightening would do.



Once the caps at A3 and A5 have been lightly tightened down with a ratchet, you can install the rest of the journal caps and tighten them all down lightly. After all the caps have been lightly tightened you can go back and torque them all to 14Nm-10.5ft/lbs.

66b. Orient the intake cam in this position for installation



Next is the intake cam. It follows the same proceedure as the exhaust cam. First, place journal caps E1, E4, and E6 over their respective studs. Install the 6 hex nuts and start them about 1 turn by hand.

68. Tighten down these 3 caps using the same method as above: 1/4 turn on caps E4 and E6 and tighten E1 following each set of 1/4 turns by hand.
Follow the tightening sequence in the picture below.



69. Once the caps at E4 and E6 have been lightly tightened down with a ratchet, you can install the rest of the journal caps and tighten them all down lightly. After all the caps have been lightly tightened you can go back and torque them all to 14Nm-10.5ft/lbs.

You are now finished with the intake cam installation.

70. The last step is to return the cams to their normal T.D.C. position in preparation for installing the cam gears and timing the VANOS. Using a 24mm wrench on the hex sections in the middle of the camshafts, rotate the cams until the flats with the two holes (or in my case with aftermarket cams, The flat parts that have 'A' and 'E' marked beside them) are parallel to the head surface.



71. Install the primary timing chain that you previously tied up back into the sprocket for the exhaust cam and slip assembly over the end of the exhaust cam. Don't worry much about putting this back in the right location yet, just get the chain on, we will slip it under the chain later to get the sprocket indexed properly.

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1999 BMW 328i (Daily Driver) - m54b30 intake manifold, ebay headers, Rebirth Motorsports CAI, Rogue Engineering underive pulleys, Epic Motorsports Software, Custom 3 inch exhaust with Burns Merge, Schrick 264/248 Cams
1967 Buick Skylark - 430 Buick Big Block Swap.
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