View Single Post
  #3  
Old 11-01-2012, 03:33 PM
jared_wiesner jared_wiesner is offline
Registered User
Location: Brantford, Ontario, Canada
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 75
Mein Auto: 1999 328i, 1967 Skylark,
36. Slide the exhaust thrust flange over the studs as shown. Make sure you slide the flange past the threaded portion of the studs and onto the larger round section.



37. Locate the exhaust sprocket spring washer. Note the side marked "F" faces outward. Slip the spring washer over the studs like the thrust flange.



38. Exhaust spring washer properly installed.



39. Locate the exhaust cam sensor position plate. Note the orientation, it has an arrow marking like the exhaust sprocket. The arrow needs to line up with the left head surface.



40. Install the cam sensor position plate as shown. Install the three 6mm hex nuts and tighten a little at a time in a rotation pattern to compress the spring washer. Do not torque them yet.



41. While leaving all the other hardware tight, one at a time, remove each of the 6 hex nuts and 3 torx bolts, clean the threads, apply threadlock, and torque to the spec shown. Since you are only removing one piece of hardware at a time there is no danger of anything moving out of position. The BMW manual does not specify threadlock on these, but I feel that medium strength (blue) threadlock adds a margin of safety and has no down side.

Torque the 3 torx bolts to 20Nm-15ft/lbs, and the 6 hex nuts to 10Nm-7.5ft/lbs.

Your cams are now properly timed.



42. Remove the camshaft locking blocks.



43. Remove the crankshaft TDC locking pin.

44. Remove the modified primary tensioner and replace the spacer pin with the spring (preferably a new one). Install the OEM tensioner into the cylinder head.

Use a new sealing washer and torque to 70Nm-52ft/lbs using a 32mm socket.



45. Apply some RTV gasket sealer to the two areas shown in the picture. Install a new VANOS gasket over the studs and dowels, then apply some more RTV, at the same locations, on the outside face of the gasket.

I highly recommend Permatex "Ultra Grey" for all engine assembly applications where a RTV sealant is required



46. Remove the German Auto Solutions exhaust piston spacer from the VANOS unit, then slide the VANOS unit into place. Install the OEM VANOS mounting hardware and lift bracket. Torque the 6mm hex nuts to 10Nm-7.5ft/lbs, and the 8mm stud to 24Nm-18ft/lbs.





You can now jump down to labelled Universal Instructions


Proffesional Kit Cam Timing Cont.

1. Locate the intake helix cup and apply some motor oil or assembly lube to the outside and inside helix splines. Now install the intake helix cup using the same procedure you used for the exhaust side. Push the intake cup in until the splined section is flush with the sprocket as shown in the picture.



2. Install the 3 torx head bolts as shown. Tighten them finger tight, then loosen 1/4 turn.



3. Locate the exhaust sprocket thrust flange and apply a film of oil or assembly lube to both sides. It doesn't have a front or back and is another symmetrical part. If you're fussy you can usually tell which side was originally facing out by looking at the polished contact areas. The side with shinny spots on the very outside edge (like in picture) faces outward.



4. Slide the exhaust thrust flange over the studs as shown.

Make sure you slide the flange past the threaded portion of the studs and onto the larger round section.



5. Locate the exhaust sprocket spring washer. Note the side marked "F" faces outward. Slip the spring washer over the studs like the thrust washer.



6.Locate the exhaust cam sensor position plate.

Note the orientation, it has an arrow marking like the exhaust sprocket. The arrow needs to line up with the left head surface.



7. Install the sensor position plate as shown. Install the three 6mm hex nuts and leave them loose so that they are not preloading the spring washer.



8. Locate the intake cam spring washer and apply some oil or assembly lube to the back side. Install over the threaded studs.

Note - the bent tabs face outward. Sometimes these will have a "FRONT" marking on the outside face.



9. Install the three 6mm hex nuts but leave them loose so that they do not preload the spring washer.


10. This is the completed chain & sprocket install ready for the timing alignment procedure. At this point all 6 hex nuts and all 3 torx bolts should be loose. You should be able to easilly slide the helix cups in and out with no resistance. If there is any binding, you have something too tight, go back and find out what it is.

Note - the intake helix cup will slide all the way out if pulled, the exhaust helix cup will pull out part way then stop, this is normal



11. Make sure that cylinder head VANOS gasket surface is perfectly clean with all traces of the old gasket removed.

Wipe off the mounting surface of the German Auto Solutions VANOS Timing Plate Tool then slide it over the studs and dowels as shown.

Any pieces of old gasket material or dirt caught between the plate and head could have a minor effect on timing accuracy.



12. Secure the timing tool in place using OEM VANOS mounting hardware as shown. Lightly tighten the 2 nuts and 1 stud. You want the plate to be held firmly, but there is no need to over tighten. 6-7ft/lbs is plenty if you feel the need to torque them.



13. Remove the 2 LEFT HAND THREAD torx head screws from their storage locations and screw them into the intake and exhaust helix cups. If the cups have been pushed forward you will have to pull them back toward the plate in order to start the screws. These only need to be lighly snugged.



14. In this step we will pretension the primary timing chain. The tension is not overly critical. Once all the slack is taken out of the chain, further tightening does not accomplish anything. If you severely over tighten the tensioner you could damage the timing chain or guide. I found the easiest way to set proper tension without over tightening is to firmly grasp the exhaust sprocket, (the one furthest from the front of the engine that the primary chain wraps around) and wiggle it back and forth. Tighten the tensioner slowly until you can no longer wiggle the exhaust sprocket, then tighten one more revolution.



15. Next, press down on the secondary chain tensioner and remove the lock pin. Everything will now be in proper alignment.



16. Tighten the 6 hex nuts on the intake and exhaust sprockets. The bottom ones are accessible through the window openings on the timing plate. These do not affect timing, they only preload the spring washers against the sprockets to keep them from vibrating against the cam flanges during operation. Snug them up good at this point but do not torque them yet.



17. Next tighten the 3 torx head screws on the exhaust sprocket. These screws lock the relationship between the intake and exhaust VANOS sprockets which sets the proper timing. They are the only screws that lock the timing in place. Snug them up good at this point but do not torque them yet.



18. Next remove the German Auto Solutions VANOS timing plate. Don't forget to return the left hand thread torx screws to their storage locations to prevent them from getting lost.

While leaving all the other hardware tight, one at a time, remove each of the 6 hex nuts and 3 torx bolts, clean the threads, apply threadlock, and torque to the spec shown. Since you are only removing one piece of hardware at a time there is no danger of anything moving out of position. The BMW manual does not specify threadlock on these, but I feel that medium strength (blue) threadlock adds a margin of safety and has no down side.

Torque the 3 torx bolts to 20Nm-15ft/lbs, and the 6 hex nuts to 10Nm-7.5ft/lbs.



19. You can now remove the tensioner tool and install the OEM tensioner. Use a new sealing washer.

Torque to 70Nm-52ft/lbs.



20. Remove the camshaft locking blocks.



21. Remove the crankshaft TDC locking tool.



22. Apply some RTV gasket sealer to the two areas shown in the picture, install a new VANOS gasket over the studs and dowels, then apply some more RTV at the same locations on the outside face of the gasket.

I highly recommend Permatex "Ultra Grey" for all engine assembly applications where a RTV sealant is required.



23. You can now slide the VANOS unit into place.

__________________

Check out my band - The Marked

1999 BMW 328i (Daily Driver) - m54b30 intake manifold, ebay headers, Rebirth Motorsports CAI, Rogue Engineering underive pulleys, Epic Motorsports Software, Custom 3 inch exhaust with Burns Merge, Schrick 264/248 Cams
1967 Buick Skylark - 430 Buick Big Block Swap.
Reply With Quote