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Old 11-07-2012, 08:31 AM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
Location: earth
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,403
Mein Auto: car
Originally Posted by Spaz'E36 View Post
Given attecntion to what you mentioned about the cutting and splicing of wires #1 and #3....

I just had to switch a new(to me) DME into my 1996 328is, so I followed the video instructions and cut/capped the green wire of the EWS to disable it and now the car will turn over but will not crank. I then tried the original DME and the same thing it would turn over but not crank.......Did I miss something about splicing wires #1 and #3?

Ok, this is how it works.

The EWS system communicates with the EWS component of your ECU/ DME's programming. The EWS is the 1st gatekeeper and the DME is the second gatekeeper.

When the EWS system itself is busted, the signal from the ignition key does not even reach the rest of the car, hence your engine will not even turn over.

Bypassing the EWS system allows your ignition signal to reach the starter and cause the engine to crank.

However, no EWS signal reaches the DME to pair up with its internal programming. Hence the ECU will assume that the security verification is not complete and not take further action. Therefore, the car will crank but will not fire up. Unclamp the ECU and you'll see that the car still cranks but still does not start....same thing essentially.

You need to bypass BOTH gatekeepers to get this running. Your current DME is still looking for the EWS. You gotta stop that as well.

What you need, is an EWS delete chip on your ecu. This is a aftermarket chip that's coded for your car, but without the EWS subroutines. So you may have purchased an extra DME, but unless it has this ews delete chip installed on it, or its an older dme (91.92, etc, generally known as a red label dme) which did not have an EWS pairing function to begin with, your car will still not fire up even though the initial culprit, your first gatekeeper, the primary EWS system itself, has been disabled.

If all of this is news to you, then you have read through Steve's first post too quickly. Please re-read the very first post on this thread again for further details beyond this point.


p.s. EWS delete chips retail for around $50 on ebay). You can probably plug that into your original ecu (the chips come with installation instructions) or your new spare ecu. Or you can sell off your new spare ecu and purchase an older red label dme instead. I would suggest the ews delete chip because it usually contains an enhanced map which will improve your car's performance itself, so you'll turn a repair into an upgrade.

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 11-07-2012 at 08:32 AM.
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