View Single Post
  #4  
Old 11-11-2012, 09:35 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
Banned
Location: earth
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,403
Mein Auto: car
Hi Mate,

You're losing oil because its going out the tailpipe, not because of a leak. However, its a very good idea to doublecheck that.

Blue smoke is not good. Please see :

http://autoleak.com/Oil/Blue-Smoke-F....php?topic=Oil

I've got a quick solution for you. Go to a gas station and pick up one of those $7 oil treatment cans. This is NOT an engine flush, this is oil treatment. The can should say something like it will stop smoke from your tailpipe. Its usually half a quart or less. ( If you have many choices, use the STP oil treatment, comes in a can.)

This is essentially thicker engine oil than your car is used to. It will flow thickly. It will thicken the viscosity of the oil in your engine. This leads to less efficient running as the engine's internals need to do more work to move around, but the difference is usually not significant. However, the thicker oil creates better sealing in your piston rings, and may reduce or stop the smoke. Better sealing also means better compression, so your engine's performance may actually improve, and be sustained if the gains in compression outweigh the losses in internal friction.

If this works even partially, then henceforth, use slightly thicker oil in your engine than the manual's recommendation, to minimise the smoke problem. I once used this to stop an engine's mild smoking propensity.

You may also have a headgasket issue (can someone confirm this possibility based on the op's symptoms? Thanks.) If that's the case, you can always try a product such as steel seal, which is basically a HG in a bottle solution. These can seal small ruptures in HGs, although if yours is a HG issue it might not be all that small by now. Google and youtube for videos. They are not cheap - $95, but imo its worth trying. Whichever product you use, ONLY use those products which are coolant friendly. Those that are not, which require you to flush your existing coolant out first, are substantially cheaper but contain silicates which will react with coolant and sediment out and can clog up things like water pumps etc. Unless you're draining your engine block, its virtually impossible to flush out all of the old coolant during a normal radiator flush, so whatever is left behind will react with silicate products and cause problems.

The above are the 'quick and dirty' patches to this problem. If you want to be more hardcore about this, you'll need to do a compression test and a cylinder leakdown test (youtube for videos) to determine the state of your engine. Depending on what you find (the fest and google will help you interpret results) you can decide what your budget allows you to do.

I'd personally recommend that you do the compression test as the kit is cheap ($40 shipped off ebay) and it can be done with no special equipment or skills. The leakdown test is more of a second stage test, but it requires shop air and some skills in turning the engine to top dead centre on each cylinder. There's another test using the vacuum pressure gauge, which is the bastard cousin to the leakdown test, but its cheap ($30 shipped), helps you narrow down problems too and can be DIYed easily so that might be something you might want to look at. All of these gauges can be sold off on ebay at 30% of your buying price without difficulty, so its well worth the investment.

I've given you the whole range of all the possibilities, but it might be something very minor and livable, so don't jump to conclusions yet. Please be zen about it and keep us posted.

And download and read the bentley manual.


rgds,
Roberto

Last edited by robertobaggio20; 11-11-2012 at 09:42 PM.
Reply With Quote