Is the #1 ect the one for the dme, or the one for the dashboard temp gauge ? You need to unplug the one for the dme.
Try this (and we're on a fishing expedition here), unplug the ect, clear all the error codes (via the stomp test or by unclamping the ecu for a few minutes), then run another test.
While we're on the fishing expedition, lets rule out the o2 sensor as well. If the above does not help, then pull the O2 sensor's relay. It should be in your dme box...please check with the bmanual for the exact location for your car. That's an easy way to deactivate the o2 sensor. Then drive the car again and see if the problem recurs.
Whatever you try, if the problem does not recur, keep it in test running mode for 2-3 days to confirm this, then change the relevant component.
If these do not work.....well......check the hose that's under the throttle body, that fits into the icv. Make sure it is properly fitted, as best as you can. There should be pretty much no wiggle in it.
Poor idle issues can be traced in the following manner. Start the engine, let the engine's note stabilise, then get a can of carb cleaner, and start spraying at possible vacuum leak points. I'm talking the icv area, the throttle body area, the intake manifold gasket area, the vcg vacuum fitting area, around the afm (air flow meter or air mass sensor) etc. If you hit the right spot, the idle will improve...the car will be sucking in carb cleaner, which is flammable, and combustion will improve leading to a better idle. Even if you find a spot, check through everything that you can think of.
I will do a test with a fuel pressure regulator later and let you know if a bad one can cause idling problems and not merely overfuelling ones.
Last edited by robertobaggio20; 11-14-2012 at 11:27 PM.