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Old 11-18-2012, 06:22 PM
robertobaggio20 robertobaggio20 is offline
Location: earth
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 3,403
Mein Auto: car
Originally Posted by fredgus View Post
Wow, thanks Roberto! Very complete reply and extremely helpful. Is replacing those plugs as simple as it looks?
I have no idea, have not seen it done before. There are others here who are more experienced with this.

I would hazard a guess that it can be done if the space is accessible, and considering the situation its in right now it probably would not matter if you damaged it further, but you must take great care not to damage the oil lines by uncontrolled movement of your wrench.

Please check the bentley manual for any relevant directions.

Hmmmmm.......hmmmmmm.........hmmmmmmmmm..........I 've just got a wild idea. Dude, are you willing to give this a shot ? Just to see if it works. Probably too ugly, and the parts and repair are probably too cheap/doable to keep it this way. Just to satisfy my curiosity, and since you already have an issue and since this will only take 10 minutes.

1. Shut down the car for the day/night.
2. Clean the brake master pump area with a damp tissue filled with carb cleaner, degreaser or water, as best as you can. Do not spray water or carb cleaner directly at it as it may enter the brake master pump
3. Blow air forcefully using a any flexible hose or straw onto the area to clear it of dust as best as you can.
4. Get a tube of clear high temp rtv silicone window sealant. It should be usable for glass, acquariums, radiators...these are the pictures you might find on the carton. Apply it to the area. Dab gently with your finger, but not in such a way that you force sealant into the leaking spaces.
5. It cures enough to seal within 30 minutes but its best to leave it for a couple of hours.
6. The next day, top up fluid into the brake fluid reservoir.
7. Drive normally, paying heed to the safety pointers I've mentioned earlier. Test your brakes variably when it is safe to do so.
8. Check on the leak whenever you finish a trip.
9. Have a portable light with you.

These should not involve additional costs on your end as you should have carb cleaner and clear high temp (not gasket temp levels) rtv silicone sealant anyway for on the spot repairs and other purposes.

An adaptation of the above worked for my radiator's busted bleed screw fantastically. It withstood pressure while driving with no hint of rupture. I am curious to see if it seals the gap and withstands the brake master pump's pressure as well.

It should, in any case, not make anything worse than it already is. The sealant does not flow and would not ooze into the leak's spaces naturally if you don't force it in. The dried sealant is quite easily removed using a screwdriver and does not rupture sealed surfaces the way removing glue might.

If you do this, please put a spot of the sealant in another part of the engine bay. The next day, after it has dried, put one drop of brake fluid onto it. Look at it a few hours later and see if there is any material deterioration. Dab it with your finger to feel the texture, and then dab the dry sealant that you applied around the brake master pump's lines to see if there is any difference.

Please post your observed results here for everything that I've mentioned.

If it works, this could be a useful on-the-spot quick and dirty fix for general use, and would be a good contribution to our response regime for issues.

And even if this works and lasts a few days with no apparent deterioration, please carry out the correct repair soon and drive conservatively until then. These are brakes.....failure could lead to death for the innocent.


Last edited by robertobaggio20; 11-19-2012 at 03:39 AM.
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