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Old 11-19-2012, 05:43 PM
ard ard is online now
Resident Curmudgeon
Location: Sierra foothills, California USA
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 16,995
Mein Auto: '12 X5 35d/E39M5/996TTX50
1. Shops that are located in Indianapolis....

sorry, coudnt rsist- Independents.. just an auto mechanic that is independent of BMW. ie not a dealer. They usually are cheaper (but not always) than a dealer. You can usually find recommendations on line- yelp, or here, or other forums...

2. Stop getting all twisted up with 'softer' rotors... the fact is that rotors AND pads wear. The key issue is that BMW, with their silly brainless "CBS" display, ONLY tracks pad wear. In the old days you would check ads and rotors periodically, and replace as necessary. Now BMW lets you go 20k before it tells you the pad is worn. If you were to just replace the pads, the rotors might well wear far bekow their minimum before the pads wear out again. Thus, they have you replace pads and rotors as one.

If you can commit to cchecking pads and rotors yourself, every 10k miles or so, then just replace pads or rotors when they get low- there are minimum inspection thicknesses on both.

But if you'll just go by the dash, the ONLY way I'd skip rotors would be IF the rotors- after one set of pads- is AT or LESS than 50% used. (This means they can 'withstand' anohter full set of pads before being below spec

3. Last time I looked, I think you can buy pads, rotors and a pad sensor at for about $400. Take me an hour to pop on in my garage. Pray tell what is the dealer charging you??


OE is Original Equipment: aka 'BMW Original Parts"; aka "What you buy at the BMW dealer with a BMW label on it"

OEM is Original Equipment Manufacturer... EITHER 'the company that made the OE part" or.... 'A part this is identical to the OE part, but is sold by the OEM under their own label,"


Don't believe me? Read:

Last edited by ard; 11-19-2012 at 05:45 PM.
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