02-07-2013, 05:02 AM
Officially Welcomed to the 'Fest
Location: Sudbury, MA
Join Date: Apr 2007
Mein Auto: '02 530i Sport auto
For your troubleshooting sequence, I would recommend pulling the FSU first rather than pulling fuse 76 for the following reasons:
Originally Posted by bluebee
[B]PLEASE IMPROVE THE STEPS BELOW SO ALL BENEFIT!
(Advice is always welcome!
I think I know what to do; so as to add value with every repair, here's my story, as it unfolds.
a) I had put in a new FSU in, oh, about three years ago (need to check) <=== here's the thread ... 2/2/2009
b) I had put in a new alternator & belt drive system a couple of years ago (need to check) <=== here's the thread 7/26/2010
c) I had put in a new battery just over a year ago (need to check) <=== here's the thread ... 9/19/2011
I think this is the drill:
Step 1: Disconnect & charge the battery
Step 2: Get the battery and alternator checked
out at Autozone
Step 3: If it passes step 2, start looking for parasitic drain by pulling the FSU or its 40A fuse F76 (under the glovebox)
Step 4: If it's not the FSU, then start pulling all 88 fuses, one by one, with an ammeter in series with the battery
1. Pulling fuse 76 will only determine if the problem to the heater blower circuit. This is helpful if we have no idea where the problem arises. But this problem (battery drain) is a somewhat common occurance in e39s.
2. The FSU has historical precedence for causing battery drain. By pulling the FSU, you might identify the cause of the problem immediately.
3. The FSU is much easier to access than fuse 76
If your current FSU is the problem and needs to be replaced, this suggests that even newer model FSUs will not last forever. Good to know.