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E30 Build Thread

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48K views 265 replies 16 participants last post by  hornhospital 
#1 ·
This isn't going to be a build like my Hellrot, but nevertheless:

Picked this up for $475 the other day, looking to freshen it up for DD status and possibly sell it for a profit later.

84 318 coupe, 5 speed manual. 210k miles. [(ish) you know how E30s are]

Runs but dies after a second or two, cannot give it any throttle or it dies. Has some rust issues, and needs some other TLC.









Started tearing the interior to see what I have to work with.



Dafak?



PO said there was an alarm system that was removed and he "tied" these blue wires together to make it run. When I pulled them apart, sure enough it wouldn't even crank.

Yanked out a bunch of other wires too, then it would crank and not fire. So I hooked this relay back up and sure enough, she fired up again. I need to look at some wiring diagrams and clean this junk up. Did I mention the lower dash cover had about 6 different wood screws in odd places holding it in?





Started messing with different sensors, unplugged this one and it will idle for probably 30 seconds or so, maybe longer.



Rust in spare tire well, has some on the floor as well. I will probably take most of the interior out soon, I want black seats, door panels, and carpet. I need to secure the gas pedal on the floor as well, not sure how it's supposed to attach though.



Something was a little hungry...



Windows do not work either, but I guess they shouldn't when the switches aren't hook up, couldn't find the wires. Shouldn't be hard to find when the carpet is out. The driver's side door doesn't lock either. I can't do it with the key, or by pushing the lock cylinder down. I'm guessing something is simply seized up. Trunk and passenger door locks work.

I also had time to ohm the MAF, I'm uploading a video of it. Based on what I found I'm guessing it's shot as well which would be causing issues. While I'm at it I'm going to replace the spark plugs as well. Eventually I'll do the fuel filter and distributor cap/rotor/etc.

Comments/questions/help is encouraged!
 
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#239 ·
Almost ready to put the interior together:

Applied bed liner to the driver's side after a clean and vacuum





Cleaned the used carpet I bought





Then used black spray paint (don't hate)



I put on a LOT of coats. Between them I would brush the carpet to make it a little softer and make sure everything was covered. I'm going to do another coat or two tomorrow when it's nice and completely dry. We'll see how it turns out.

Cleaned the door cards



Then used Duplicolor fabric dye in flat black



Should have it all done this weekend.
 
#243 ·
Got a couple of things done today. First, started putting the interior back together, have the windows all wired up now (weren't before) and mostly everything done. I'm also trying to fix the leak around the fuel pump assembly, if I fill it up the whole way it spews out. I put a new o ring in and I'll fill it up tomorrow and see what happens.





Front of the interior is mostly done, needs a cleaning now for sure. I'd also like to redo the seats sometime, ideas? Products? Experience?

Again, low quality low light pictures. :tsk:





Check out my new gas pedal yo, been driving it without one at all for the last month! lol



Injectors showed up, look very very nice. All new O rings and the like, not bad for 68 bucks shipped total.







Runs GREAT!! No miss at all, climbs all the way to redline. I figured something was up with the injectors, the rest of the fuel system is new (soft lines, filter, pump, pressure regulator) as is the spark plugs, wire, cap, and rotor. I also used up 3/4 ish of a tank and only got 94 miles. One or more of them were stuck open for sure. One other thing to note is the the injectors tested perfectly with a multimeter.

Now the only problem is idle, there is no miss anymore but it isn't quite right. Bumps up and down sometimes, and is always high (1500rpm if not more)

I cleaned the ICV but maybe I killed it in the process? Like I said I don't think there are any Vac leaks but who knows.
 
#251 ·
I'm too lazy to go back and read through....did you change the FPR? That really sounds like too much fuel pressure at idle. Or the idle control valve is faulty.

Funny, I'm just went through the same symptoms with the M30 in the 633. I liked the lumpy idle, but it ran like crap until we cleaned the ICV and replaced the FPR.
 
#252 ·
Sorry Ken didn't see this.

Yes, FPR is new. I keep forgetting to get my buddies timing light and check that. I'd like to do that, and do a smoke test if I can. I swapped in my old AFM to see if the fuel economy goes up. Another member told me to unplug the one coolant sensor that controls the cold start injector to make sure that isn't ruining my fuel economy either.

I really want/need to borrrow an IAC to see if that is my problem. I don't want to spend tons of money on one when it may not be the issue.
 
#254 ·
New IAC, idle is definitely better, some cases it's perfect, then other times it still bounces up and down. Does the computer have to adjust?





When I first fired it up it sounded no different. Then after probably 2 minutes the idle came down to 700 ish and sounded pretty good. Next time I fired it up it did the same thing. Then when I got home I let it idle and it didn't come down, stayed around 1000rpm and bounced slightly. Again later I fired it up and it came down to 700ish again and sounded good. Thoughts?

Also, my buddy said it smells pretty rich. Injectors are new as well as FPR, etc. Could it be the cold start injector sticking or would the IAC effect that?
 
#255 ·
Alright, well I fiddled a little with the car today. While running, I unplugged the coolant temp gauge (almost brand new) and it idled way down, almost died but not quite. I would believe that that means I have no major vac leaks.

Plugged it back in and the idle went right back up. Then I unhooked the AFM and it all but died, then plugged it back in a the idle was good then.

Maybe I should unhook the battery and let everything reset :dunno:

I had a VCG laying around so I decided to powder my valve cover, came out pretty nice I think.







Wrinkle red was the color choice. First wrinkle I've done. You can see the oil cap came out differently than the valve cover. Different metals?



 
#257 ·
I think I may have figured at least one issue out. I was fiddling with the car, check the TPS (PITA, couldn't really tell if it was ok or not) and checking for vac leaks. I hear a slight hissing noise near the firewall all the time but I can't seem to pin point it. Anyway I was moving wires around, and the fuel return line when the idle started changing. So I moved the return line and sure enough, changed the idle, if I move it a certain way, it will die. If I move it another way, it will idle right at 700 rpm. Part of the line is almost rock solid.


So tomorrow I'll replace that whole line and see what happens.
 
#258 ·
By moving (pinching) the return line you are defeating the FPR, running the pressure full-up and undoubtedly flooding the engine. It must have free flow back to the tank. I think you're on to something! :thumbup:
 
#259 ·
Replaced that fuel return hose, turns out that wasn't the issue, although the old hose was hard and cracked.

When I was wiggling that it was moving a ground wire that wasn't attached! Fixed that and all is well (so far) it idles perfect and doesn't hesitate or anything.

And, bumper tuck:





Rear was cake, front was a PITA due to limited space to get the bumper nuts back on once it was moved closer to the body.
 
#262 ·
glad to hear you figured out the idle issue. (you didn't happen to take a pic of the location, didja??:dunno:)

you could drop into teh e30 forum and be like teh wizzard of oz with that kind of info....:eeps:

:p
df
Thanks! I think all is well now. I have to see how my mpgs are now. I'll get a picture of the ground wires.

Wait, what? What did you unbolt? You didn't drill the bumper shocks and collapse them? :dunno:
I did drill. The rear I didn't have to take them off but the front I did because the main part of the shock that needs drilled isn't accessible.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Bimmer App
 
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